Routes in Malaysia

Route that leads into the prominent flake in the centre of Shieldtox. Crux at the end when you are forced to leave the cosy environment of the inside of the flake.

Located on most left inside the cave, look for a short route with lots of feature. The guy who first ascend this route literally climb it right after school. Hence the name Back From School.

Crawling through the crux before the 2nd clip makes you feel like a cat.

Beginning part is quite exposed for beginner climber, climb cautiously.

Runout caution!

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman

Right hand side of the wall. Runs up into the chimney (follow the old pitons) then left onto a stance. From there goes straight up to the crack that runs up the right side of the face all the way to the tree at the top. Requires friends and threads and has good protection.

Share the same anchor with Atle the Snake Charmer

This route share the same start as firestarter. Apart after 5th clip. There is sling for clipping.

Follows Diaper Jaya for 6 bolts, then heads left up through the reddish crumbly looking rock onto the ledge and spacey to the anchor.

Anchor changed & updated on 5th July 2020, from sling anchor to stainless steel chain anchor by Nabilaa Mohamed

White Awake

1st pitch: straight up, then anchor to the right on a ledge. Bolted by Haziq

2nd pitch: starts at the tufa on the left of anchor. Go up, gradually left, then horizontal left, taking the 2nd pitch of ETDR's anchor. Bolted by Haziq

3rd pitch: exit ETDR by traversing gradually to the right. Hanging belay station. Bolted by Haziq and Carlos

4th pitch: straight up to the summit. Bolted by Carlos and Derick.

Descent: Walk off from the back of White Wall/ETDR(trad gear required)

OR

2 rap offs from the summits anchor to the newly bolted anchor of Nasa's Fantasy.

Shoutout to Alif(Bird) and Verticale for the hangers' contribution.

P1 Climbs the first pitch of Redemption Song to belay under the small cave 25m 5c. P2 Leave the belay on the right hand side of the cave and climb the rib using trad gear (cams and nuts) then pass through the trees (slings) to gain the groove that runs up the left side of the Good Onion arete. Follow this to the top (cams, nuts and threads). Don't step right at the top to clip the last bolts of Good Onion. Use the Good Onion belay. 28m 5c P3 From the Good Onion belay climb the pocketed rock straight above the belay to gain the small niche (thread runer here). Holiday in the Bamboo Hotel continues straight up. Traverse left along the break towards the small tree (thread runner) and then step further left to gain the bolts of Redemption Song and the belay. 20m 5c. Abseil down Redemption Song

Obvious face climb straight up the grey and later white rock to the chain anchor. Dry for most of the year.

Questionable bolt ethic for this route, the whole pillar that is bolted on is hollow on the inside. Safety concern is raised whether the pillar can withstand the impact of any lead fall. Avoid climbing this route at all cost.

Easiest among the 3 brothers.

Suitable for kids and beginner

Bouldery start, much easier after.

This slab climb is located just to the far right of the First Multipitch route.

The route was named as our fellow climber from Switzerland got a hangover from Penang's night life.Instead of joining us to climb the slab he bolted, he took a nap at the hammock tied right under the route.

This slab climb is bolted by fellow climbers from RockWorld climbing gym Kulai ,Johor.

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman