Routes in Malaysia

Part of new routes bolted at 2012 by fellow climber ( Bernard Spack ) from Switzerland. After No Man's Land 2nd route to the right.

Bolted by: Faiz

Route located straight up the corner of the main wall.

Watch out for spicy anchor placement.

Sit start

do not use bottom rock for feet

Sit start variation from the bottom (do not use boulder on right for feet)

This route starts from the middle of the cave, it requires the climber to traverse along the cave.

Stand start. Having to fight a baby cobra in the homestay the night before makes Ning super paranoid the next day as he check on every handhold to make sure nothing dangerous crawling inside before trying out the route. Hence the name Cobra Trauma.

Start up the crack and then work your way towards the top

Stand start. First ascentionist left his footwork home and decided to power through the top out crux.

Stand start.

Stand start.

Stand start.

Sit start with left hand on half crimp and right hand on good full crimp.

Traverse line. Start right at the tree and top out all the way at the left end.

Sit start on the lowest jug.

Stand start.

Stand start with crack line elimination.

Stand start with right hand on crack line. Crack only for start, then eliminated.

Same start as Death is a Lonely Business and traverse right and go straight up.

Stand start.

Stand start.

Stand start and traverse left following the crack line.

Stand start.

Sit start.

Sit start traverse. #traverse

Sit start on 2 hands crimp, traverse right then top out. Climb cautiously, might bumped your head on the boulder at the back on the traverse part.

Stand start to layback compress move.

Stand start then follow the crack line towards left.

Compress stand start moves. This problem is the easiest way up to the highest spot of Rat Island. Jacob is very likely to be the first person to step foot on top of this boulder.

Same start as Gumby's First FA, move a bit left.

Jam your whole body into the crack and wiggle your way out on the other side of the crack.

Stand start. Left hand start on nicest crimp you can find and right hand pulling on crack line feature side pull.

Obvious crack line on the left side of the boulder. Stand start.

A white butterfly lands on the few climbers when they're busy attempting to FA this tricky slab problem, hence the name The Butterfly Effect. Stand start from the lowest side on the left of the boulder.

Stand start route with crimpy holds

Same start as Orchid, with elimination of the next jug hold.

Traverse line.

Stand start with both hand on round hold.

Stand starts. Micro crimpy compress style route.

Stand on the small rock below to reach the high starting holds then traverse all the way with the crack line. The problem ends at the end of the crack line, no top out. #traverse

After reaching the ledge slightly on the left, go straight to top out. Original Trust route end by traversing to the left.

Alot of crash pads and spotters required for this route due to its height.

You will eventually need to traverse to the left side of this boulder.

Boulder traverse from the start of Si Katik Sadis to Dreadlock Invader. #traverse

Sit start.

Projecting

Sit start

Stand start

Sit start on a good side pull

Balance on the lower part of the rock use the crimp and straight up to right hand and undercling.~ Sloper on the top out

Stand start, use crack hand hold all the way up.

Start pinch straight up sloper and top out

Start low on the good crimp go left to the jug up on the slab

start on the nice slopper left rock right to the crag follow the crimps to the top

Start low on the side wall all the way up

Sit start. Traverse to the left

Sketchy top out. Beware of the starting ledge.

Hand jam sit start

Climb up on the small boulder in front and approach the problem on there. There's a high chance climbers might hit the boulder behind if they fall. Scottish crusher Craig freak everyone out on his FA by attempting the route without having any crash pads below. Hence the name for the boulder is called Bawbags. Trust me, you need them bawbags to attempt this route!

Short climbers might need to jump start this problem as the start hold on the crak is reachy and there is no way to stack up pads as the ground below is a slope.

Using the same start of Run Leon Tiger and proceed to top out the boulder. Same risk factor as Jealousy Turning Saint Into The Sea

Pumpy start and boulder problem just before finish.Right of the hole.

Anchor changed & updated on 1st November 2020, from sling anchor to stainless steel chain anchor by Aril, Faiz and Hatta

Pitch 1

• Climb straight up from the ground
• Reach an anchor at approximately 10 meters in height
• Do not stop at the anchor; continue climbing
• The first anchor is on the left of the massive cave's roof

Pitch 2

• Climb up and right
• Pass a small tufa overhang, then you see the first bolt
• This pitch is the shortest

Pitch 3

• Climb straight up
• End at the left side of a bush

Pitch 4

• Climb straight up, then slightly right
• Face the crux of the pitch, a slab where you start going up and right

Pitch 5

• This pitch is not in the topo
• Climb up through a big overhang under the base jumping platform
• Still a project and ungraded, could be very difficult

Note: Ants are expected along the route.

1 Threaded + 5 Bolts

1. 15m (6c+) Follow the line of bolts at about the center of the wall. A reachy traverse to the right gets you to the 1st anchor.

2. 20m (6b+) Go further up keeping slightly diagonaling to the left then up past 2 ledges to another ledge with the second anchor.

3. 5m (6b) A few moves and mantle get you to the top with a double-bolt anchor.

Rap off the way you came up. With a 60m rope this requires you to swing quite far to the right to reach the 1st anchor.