Moldova Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Moldova 42 routes in Region

7 8 1 5 3 2 4 6

1 Văratic 2 Cobani / Кобань 3 Duruitoarea 4 Old Orhei 5 Socola 6 Chișinău 7 Verejeni 8 Fetesti

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.198945, 28.475238

1.1. Văratic 9 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Banya 2 Predbannik

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.914414, 27.280114

summary

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-varatic/

description

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-varatic/

approach

You can reach the rocks from the bridge in Văratic, or from Duruitoarea. In both cases you have to drive dirt road. After heavy rain it might be not possible to pass with normal car. The road, despite its quality, is very busy, as it makes it possible to shorten the distance when travelling between villages.

where to stay

You can find good spots for a tent placement on the map above. The only place with shadow is near the forest (1.5 km away in direction to Duruitoarea). As an alternative — you can stay at Duruita Camping in the village Duruitoarea (7 km), or at Casa Varatic (4 km).

history

In 2017 I was searching for rock climbing locations in Moldova by looking at satellite images of the country. I noticed this place. Together with Marina we came here by bicycles. We were impressed by the overhanging grottes here. In 2020 we bolted a highline and first sport climbing routes.

1.1.1. Banya 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.910581, 27.272999

1.1.2. Predbannik 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 47.910258, 27.272593

1.2. Cobani / Кобань 14 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Garden 2 Birds 3 Trunk

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.758552, 27.327066

summary

Easy climbing routes at the north of Moldova.

description

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-cobani/

One of the few places suitable for rock climbing in Moldova is Cobani. The village is located on the north of the country in Glodeni District. On the edge of the village there are toltres with the altitude of ~12 meters – Stînca Mare.

approach

The easiest way is to go by car from Chișinău or Bălți.

where to stay

Tents can be placed directly under and above the rocks.

history

Since the 80s, tourists and mountaineers from Bălți have been training in this region as well as in Butești. In 2006 the Mountaineering Club of RM held here the championship of RM in rock climbing.

In autumn 2017 I was in this place and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the breed. In June 2018, me and a group of Chisinau enthusiasts bolted several sport climbing routes here.

1.2.1. Garden 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.758722, 27.327119

1.2.2. Birds 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.757948, 27.327042

1.2.3. Trunk 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.757641, 27.327157

description

Bouldering sector

1.3. Duruitoarea 2 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 First grot 2 Left side of the Gorge 3 Second Grot

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.871944, 27.265817

summary

https://kotelnikov.blog/duruitoarea/

1.3.1. First grot 0 routes in Field

1.3.2. Left side of the Gorge 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 47.871276, 27.265944

1.3.3. Second Grot 0 routes in Field

1.4. Old Orhei 11 routes in Area

1 3 2

1 Big rocks 2 Small Rocks 3 Under the cross

Summary:

Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.302691, 28.963958

1.4.1. Big rocks 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.306974, 28.958314

approach

Parken auf dem Parkplatz des archäologischen Museums in Butuceni (Eintritt ca. 30-40 Lei für 2 Personen ein Auto). Fußweg rechts vom Fluß entlang bis man den Fußweg hoch zum Big Rock sehen kann. Es geht steil bergauf über sandig gerölligen Boden. Achtung Schlangen sind hier unterwegs! Ca. 10 Minuten bergauf.

Alternativ: vom Camping Bacota (Wenn ihr hier campiert!!!) Zum Hinterausgang rechts, den tTrapelpfand folgen. Es geht steil bergab über einen schmalen gerölligen Pfand runter zum Fluß. Am Fluß links den Wanderweg folgend bis ihr zu den Pfaden hoch zum Big Rock kommt. Aufstieg ist der gleiche wie oben beschrieben.

where to stay

Camping Bacota. Siehe Google oder Park4night. Super Campingplatz. Bitte seht euch bezüglich Anfahrt die Internetseite des Campingplatzes genau an!!!

ethic

Nehmt euren Müll mit!!! Ein obligatorischer Müllbeutel gehört in jeden Kletterucksack, auch Toilettenpapier kann man da rein tun!!! Und nehmt Rücksicht auf brütende Vögel. Es sind Eidechsen so wie Schlagen unterwegs nehmt Rücksicht und haltet die Augen offen!!!Ob Giftig oder nicht die Natur hat Vorrang!!!

1.4.2. Small Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Under the cross 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.303109, 28.967698

1.5. Socola 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 47.906537, 28.812509

1.6. Chișinău 0 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Aventura Climbing Wall 2 Pruncul quarry

1.6.1. Aventura Climbing Wall 0 routes in Artificial

1.6.2. Pruncul quarry 0 routes in Area

1.7. Verejeni 0 routes in Field

1.8. Fetesti 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.167163, 27.113005

description

Climbing routes on the big wall. Were made in 2021, by TopAlpineClub.

approach

Near village road there is a path that goes directly to the wall