Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 6th May 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ G-Dub | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A decent sport route which becomes a mega classic once you ignore the bolts. The lower section consists of decent gear placed from awkward and slightly strenuous positions. Two bomber placements below the crux means you can climb the entire steep section with relative comfort into a kneebar rest where the last runner is placed. This runner is a bit of a joke and probably wouldn't hold a fall which makes the final few moves to the anchor a bold prospect. While the climb is technically safe (with little chance of decking) from the kneebar you're 100% committed as the safety of the bolts are now out of reach. So would recommend having the last section dialled before trying it on lead
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | |||||||
20 | ★★ Maybe — 3 attempts | 14m, 4 | |||||
Cool climbing with a few awkward interludes and some tricky clips. Fun mix of power and balance
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
17 Easy | ★★ Waiting for Buller | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool line, my new favorite warmup for the area. Fun movement throughout and really well protected. Watch for loose rock especially near the higher bolts
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Dragon's Lair | |||||||
26 | ★★ Instrument Of Torture - with Billy Pirie | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good to send this one on my last long beach trip before leaving Dunedin!
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Anti-Gravity Delicacy - with Monty | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Orangutan arms turned the double dyno into a dead point.
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18 | ★★ Ride the Spiral - with Monty | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky start
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25 | ★ G-Dub - with Monty | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Steep with cool moves that get better and better, culminating in a great finish! Would deserve star(s) if the rock was better quality.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
North Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Vege Patch - with siâny | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
Warm up
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19 | ★★ Wallace - with siâny | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
19 | ★★ Cadbury Flakies - with siâny | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not the best rock, but lots of different moves
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with siâny | 12m, 4 | |||||
Climbs like a chipped windowpane
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Cave Woute — 2 attempts - with siâny | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Some nice moves down low, but travels through some of the worst rock quality on the wall. Got tricked into going high at last bolt
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22 | ★★ The Overhangover - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Traversed in from left for onsite attempt, fluked the jumping direct start on red point
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17 | ★ Big Easy - with siâny | 12m, 5 | Average | ||||
More like the big dirty!
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18 | ★ Purple haze - with siâny | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Some nice undercling pockets and an elegant topout
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20 Hard | ★★ Bowels of Mercy - with siâny | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bowels of no mercy!
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17 | ★ Concrete thinkers - with siâny | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
Platform face | |||||||
22 | ★ Emprire strikes back | ★ Good | |||||
Right from the ground it's thin, not much feet, trying to place micro wires! We got scared and pumped
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14 | ★ Jame and Biscuits | ★ Good | |||||
So much jamming! Pretty fun, shame that the anchor is off-line. Narrowly avoided getting shmushed by a loose block.
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Eldorado Wall | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★ The Cruffiton Touch — 4 attempts | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool, hard sequence!
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Pink Cadillac | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A touch easier than IAEIT but a few slightly more awkward moves. Very cool. Kinda a shame there are so many bolts on the lower wall?
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22 | ★★★ It Always Ends In Tears | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a good route
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
24 Hard | ★★★ Labours Of Love | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell off the OS, got it first redders. Techy!
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Eldorado Wall | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★ The Cruffiton Touch | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Staunch as! Did all the moves but felt hard. Pulling on small crimps with slippery feet.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
21 | Do or dive | 15m | |||||
Alzheimer flash
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21 | ★ Multi author protocol | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Very cool gaston + thumb pocket!
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24 | ★ The Brave and Humble | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
1 move wonder
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Doctor's Point | |||||||
The Arches | |||||||
21 Easy |
Wobblington Or Bust P1
- with
Finn Brown
1
| Crap | |||||
Even worse.
|
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21 Easy |
Wobblington Or Bust P1
- with
Finn Brown
1
| Crap | |||||
Sport climbing, choosy and sharp rock, legs so cut up they might need to be amputated...
|
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Wed 13th Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
The Stronghold | |||||||
16 ~17 | ★ Day of the Triffids — 3 attempts | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Think it'll feel much better next time, but a pretty spooky onsight! Maybe I just suck at slab🦶😩 Very licheny
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood - with Ben Mitchell | 20m | |||||
First session, pulled through the crux moved but the real challenge is probably linking all of the lower section
|
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25 | ★★★ Parallel Universe - with Eugene Yeo | 31m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yes! A cosmic phenomenon indeed
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Red point! 5th go overall. Felt super easy. Was resting better on the jug by keeping in to the wall and only using back three fingers of each hand. Went purposefully to the deadpoint with full focus. Did the final move of crux to right sloper and then crimp easily. Felt so nice to just cruise to the anchors with plenty left in the tank. The best 24 I have climbed in NZ so far.
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24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
4th go overall. Going for the deadpoint again, and feeling better than previous time but was inaccurate and didn't latch it properly.
|
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24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3rd go overall. High point. Went for the left hand dead point above the last bolt. Got it, but my fingers wouldn't crimp properly. Just had one more move to do and the crux was over
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
17 | ★ Kiloton - with Alex Popinga | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Tempest - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy #2ndGo. Did the dyno anyway, since it does work and is fun
|
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22 | ★★ Tempest - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash attempt. One hang after 4th bolt. Really annoyed because I went for the dyno option and knew I was going to fall short on the way up. Felt I could have done it statically to make sure of the flash.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Backside | |||||||
21 | ★★ Greenhorn - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 12m, 5 | |||||
Still had to try really hard to send it second go. I definitely didn't have the best beta, but this seemed hard for the grade compared to other routes at the crag. #2ndGo
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21 | ★★ Greenhorn - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 12m, 5 | |||||
Onsight attempt. Dry-fired left hand crimping on a sloper and exploded off the wall between second and third bolt.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second attempt overall. One hang on the final bolt. Got to the final crux after clipping the last bolt. Didn't have the beans for the last deadpoint to the left hand crimp. Very close! I know all the moves now and just have to get to the top with enough energy do the last crux move
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Left Side | |||||||
20 | ★★ Fleet Street - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second warm up
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Central Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Morning Glory - with Alex Popinga, Robert Chow | 28m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice warm up.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Silly slip on my flash attempt. But I would have probably come off at the last bolt anyway, which seems like the crux. I did all the moves fairly easily and the route seems suited to me. Hopefully I can get another go on this fresh!
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ The Shady Rest - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice little route. Quite off-balance in a couple of places, cool movement.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
19 | ★★ Cadbury Flakies - with Alex Popinga | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
|
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier second time, knowing where to not muck around. #2ndgo
|
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsight attempt came up short at the last bolt going over the slopey lip.
|
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Ejectoflap | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
pretty hard for a 20...
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Eldorado Wall | |||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Golden Showers | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool climb, fun and diverse set of moves
|
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
19 Easy | ★ Greek Gift 2 | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool climb! Mellow up to the last few bolts and then a fun, thuggy finish
|
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Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Right Side | |||||||
25 | Never Enough | 14m, 4 | |||||
Crux felt a little bit contrived
|
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25 Hard | ★★★ Perfect Skin | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took quite a few sessions
|
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Dragon's Lair | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★ When The Fog Lifts | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Even though I tried to avoid it, I also succumbed to the beached whale mantle.
|
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24 | ★★ Now That The Love Has Gone | 11m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Three bolts. Fun bouldery start, throwing from a small crimp to good ledge. Then excellent slab climbing with perfect edges and an easy mantle to finish. There's a horizontal break for a potential (purple) cam placement to protect this last move, but it's pretty bad. At least the next bolt isn't too far below and the climbing is easy from there...
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Flash Bomb | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun layback up the crack, taking me right back to the Darrrans
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Long Beach Bouldering Party cave | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Coach K — 3 attempts | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
dirty lol. gave it a brush. has some cool movement
|
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Thu 1st Feb 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★ The Brave and Humble — 2 attempts | 15m, 6 | |||||
Unsatisfying top-out
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Holy Wall | |||||||
17 Easy | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Pumpy but good fun. Watch out for some choss and loose rock, especially left of the anchor
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Thu 18th Jan 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Long Beach Bouldering Entrance Boulders | |||||||
V0 ~V1 | ★ Groove | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
A little dirty as it hasnt seen many repeats but a nice boulder
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Lovers Leap | |||||||
23 |
★★ VW - Long And Winding Road P1
- with
emma, oskar
| 42m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of my favourites climbs, here or anywhere! Love the acute corner, side pulls and lack of feet holds. And a crack that continuously opens and fuses as you go!
|
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28 | ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood — 2 attempts - with emma, oskar | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second session. Genius beta from Oskar, including sneaky heel hook at the crux! Installed two new rings at the anchor.
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18 | ★★ Crying Time Again | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My go-to warm-up
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Beachcomber | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool moves, very dirty in some sections and especially the top
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
20 Hard | ★★ The Custodian - with Doughseph | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty dirty, bring a brush. A bit run out to the top bolt
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Long Beach Bouldering Archie's Playground | |||||||
V6/7 | ★★ Ayano | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Send it today : name AYANO BY TEDDY PERIGAUX (INSTA FOR BETA @teddyperigaux)
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Mon 27th Nov 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Kaipo | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really awesome and varied climbing
|
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Doctor's Point | |||||||
Railway Cutting | |||||||
18 | ★ Erotic Vulture | 15m, 5 | Don't Bother | ||||
Use RHS line of bolts at top for a grade 18 experience, supposed 'incut crimps' have either crumbled or it is not grade 18 on LHS line of bolts.
|
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15 ~16 | ★ Hole in the Wall | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough to get established but then excellent move over lip and easy going back right to finish.
|
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19 | ★ Lounge Lizard | 22m, 6 | Average | ||||
Went up start of 22 instead then joined 19 on the slab/arête as no obvious way up start of 19. Doing it this way was an excellent climb and still probably around grade 19.
|
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Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Long Beach Bouldering Cave Two | |||||||
V1 | ★★ # 13. Traverse the lip — 2 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved this! Such a cool feature and surprisingly tech-y.
|
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Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Long Beach Bouldering Cave Three | |||||||
V1 Easy | ★★ # 30 right of arch | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice little ladder for warming up!
|
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V0 | ★ # 26. Low traverse from back | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice to have a warm up with such good feet!
|
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V0 | ★ # 24. Low traverse inside arch | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A fun warm up, more pump than expected!
|
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V3 | ★★ # 22. Sit-start & heel hook to jugs — 4 attempts | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Powerful but tech-y, loved it.
|
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Central Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Burning Sky - with Meg, Chris | 24m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice techy bridging up high. Takes 0.3-4 camalots and offset nuts
|
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love — 2 attempts - with Meg | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got to the last bolt clean on the first attempt , then flubbed it trying to reorganise hands on the rail
|
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Qualia | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
First line i bolted and first first ascent of a route!
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Backside | |||||||
21 | ★★ Greenhorn | 12m, 5 | |||||
Quite hard
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Overhangover | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
sweet starting boulder to a solid root
|
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Tue 5th Sep 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Backside | |||||||
15 ~17 | ★★ Floyd | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Top crimp hold has broken off sorry
|
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Aretic Vulture | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a great route
|
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Hidden Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Che Boludo — 3 attempts | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Powerful
|
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Tue 1st Aug 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
21 | John Allen Corner | 15m, 1 | |||||
Fell on the direct chimney finish, super slick
|
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
17 | ★ Kiloton | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
a bit rowdy off the deck
|
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Left Side | |||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Lightning Strike | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got it clean second go on tope rope, but the crux was still hard
|
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20 Hard | ★★ Lightning Strike | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wet holds at the committing moves right made me.lose my headgame on this one. Good climb, crux is tough for the grade. I think this is actually Morning Glory based on ClimbNZ?
|
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
17 | ★ Big Easy | 12m, 5 | Average | ||||
Dusty. Not the greatest
|
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19 | ★★ Cadbury Flakies | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux spat me off. Was ok once I worked it out
|
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23 Hard | ★★ El Zymer | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really powerful, technical moves! Would be fun to work on, think it would go
|
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14 | ★ Pamela Anderson | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite good fun
|
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14 | ★ Bob Zimmerframe | 10m | |||||
Sandy and greasy today
|
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | |||||||
13 | ★ Bumpkin | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good protection. Quite exposed for the grade!
|
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Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Givin | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Rock isn't the greatest but not bad. Felt a bit stiff and powerful for the grade
|
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21 | ★★ Aretic Vulture | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Came so close to the onsight but missed some good holds on the face left of the arete. Awesome moves with cool pockets.
|
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Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | |||||||
20 | ★★ Maybe | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome moves heel hooking around the arete!
|
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14 | ★ Anticlimax | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good gear, nice.
|
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14 | ★★ Alesia | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good gear and good rock. Old school and tricky for the grade in places!
|
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Left Side | |||||||
20 | ★★ Lightning Strike | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky crux !
|
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ The Great Migration | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
First grade 23 onsight
|