Ascents in Kawakawa Bay as Hang dog by John Pitcairn

Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.

Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.

Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.

Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.

Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.

After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.

1 fall at first crux. Hard on the skin.

Feeling OK at the crux, then discovered I was z-clipped and not going anywhere. Cooked myself undoing that from the crux position then peeled off into the tree trying to make the move. Hauled up then got it. Idiot.

Haha, unsent again. Had a brain fart at the second crux, one take to sort my shit out rather than take the plummet into the tree again.

Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.

Getting really really humid early afternoon. Foot greased off the crux flake.

Unsent. Felt harder than last time, maybe humidity, maybe some crystals have ground off, maybe the different shoes, maybe just having a shit day.

Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.

Thought we'd top rope after James led, but no sign of him so got on it with a chalk bag on feeling very sporty. A bit nervy getting first draw on and clipped, then sat on it. Went bolt-to-bolt from there, working out a good sequence among many many chalked-up sucker holds. Managed to get through bolt 5 clean. After bolt 1 it all works best as big moves between jugs.

Snaked in front of Alex on his draws before the heat. Barndoored off at the balance crux before finding the sidepull, fingers just caterpillared to it next try. Right of the bolts above the mantle is way easier than any direct. Had a look at the dodgy block on Critters Corner on the way down.

Haha, cocked up the crux, but had a nice big nut above me. It's hard to go in for pro then get back out to make the move, made worse by forgetting my wide palm-off beta from last time. Angela did a much better job.

A revisit before leaving. Left it too long between attempts, forgot my own beta, fell off into the usual tree, got suckered by face features, had a couple of pumped sits, but got up it, back can't be too bad. Terrific route.

Suckered too far left by Grant after bolt 2, needed a sit and re-compose but came close to onsight. Wander around is right! Probably suits the light and nimble climber, pretty good, will revisit.

A bit of a back injury test - seems I can't put my shoes on without difficulty, but can still climb OK. Probably starting too far right, a couple of sits on the slab (which is starting to polish), then a long sling on the anchor and first-time fun up top.

Broke a flake hold near the top, couldn't stay on.

So close! Pinged a mono stack off around bolt 3. Next time.

WTF Donovan? Fell, sat, had steam coming out my ears trying to figure out the crux. Gritty feet didn't help, but I can't see this being 18.

Absorbing traverse with good gear. Took a sit before the crux to sort my head out, then committed to the high compressed undercling moves. Getting gear in around the corner had me going a bit after that. Top pitch is maybe a bit stiff for 16, in the same way High Hopes is. Ran both pitches together with acceptable drag, but resulted in poor communication.

Just missed the throw to the hopeful pocket at the top crux, did a rapid down-scuttle to the ledge but unfortunately weighted the rope a bit. Bugger. Got it second throw. This is really good, keeps you thinking the whole way.

Cleaned gear on abseil from Blindman's up to first crux from Tim's attempt then had a go. At least one take at each crux remembering the moves, and a fall at the round-the-arete move before getting the balance right. Injured left shoulder definitely limiting some strength and flexibility, pretty happy to even get up it.

Attempting to keep it very pure, straight up, no drifting or reaching for jugs left or right. Took a long fall, then a couple of shorter ones. The top crux is maybe just barely 22 done this way. A bit off my best game.

Pumpy! A hard start (unless you traverse in left?) and it doesn't let up. Had a sit and shake out before the crux, knew I wouldn't make it. Fought through it from there successfully, holds are sharpish. Will return for another go.

So so close to onsight, but light rain hit around halfway, foot slipped off at the crux, dammit. A quick regroup, got the move and greased up the rapidly slickening remainder. Excellent moves and position. Priority revisit needed.

A sit and a short fall working out the crux. This is really bloody good, only overshadowed by High Hopes right next door. Took gear up but there isn't much if any. A little spicy on the bolt spacing when you are in the thick of it but clean falls and challenging crux moves at the grade. Recommended.