Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue 7th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
| Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Electric Warrior
- with
Jonno Rau, AJ
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Spent a while trying to use AJ's really nice looking footwork beta and falling off, boing. Then finally remembered mine.
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| Sun 5th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
| Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Firedance
- with
Jonno Rau, AJ
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Managed to get pumped before the crux, downclimbed to gear and sat. Crux took some working out, look for the feet. A ball nut was handy. Must revisit.
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| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
| The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Vanoise
- with
AJ
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fantastic almost-onsight from AJ. Unfantastic flailing from me. Wrist angles required not at all sympathetic.
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| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
| The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
- with
AJ
2
18
25
lead by
AJ
Wow! Balancy. Don't fall off seconding as you approach the anchor, there ain't much gear in for you. This is the money pitch.
3
19
15
lead by
John Pitcairn
Flubbed it. Tendonitis wrist lock up ow, then misread the crux sequence and didn't have the wrist strength/flexibility left to get out of trouble, pitched off on a good swinging fall into nothing. Managed to swing back into Shivers and dog the moves back up that, then did the crux easily. Hopefully will be able to revisit. | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Ground Up Ethics
| 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
TRS. Getting hot, tired, flubbed it. Couple of sits.
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| Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes
- with
Jonno Rau
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Totally forgotten everything. Started in stiff shoes, sat and switched, hauled up chalk. Bit of a shitshow.
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| Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
| 18 Hard |
The Sufferer and the Witness
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 37m, 3 | Average | |||
|
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
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| Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Yacht Club | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick
- with
Aidan Sarginson, Gareth
| 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
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| Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Pipeline Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★ The Grim Reaper
- with
Andy Baird
| 18m | ||||
|
ACAT working bee. Dogged/aided while dirty, then scrubbed clean. Didn't have the energy or will to re climb it, must return. Crux will be tricky.
|
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| Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air)
- with
Gareth, Justin Wimmer
| 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
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| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth, Justin Wimmer
| 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
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| Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 20 |
★ Sunday School
- with
Gareth
| 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
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| Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Jonno Rau, Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
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| Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
| Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Galapagos
- with
Jonno Rau
| 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Sooked out and sat after getting crossed up at a nice sharp pocket. A little blood. Slung the horn for pro, then noticed there is now a top bolt out to the right. Odd position.
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| Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
| Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
| 20 Hard |
★★ Electric Warrior
- with
AJ
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
So so close. Got the bottom crux well enough with good gear, through the much cruisier middle, forgot my own beta and fell off the finger lock up top. Damn, textbook fail. Will come back. Gear spoilers: black alien protects the start move up to the ledge, the rest just wants lots of nuts, with 0.4 cam before finger crack and 0.5 or 0.75 for the awkward top bit. 120 sling for the big thread midway.
|
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| 20 Hard |
★★ Electric Warrior
- with
AJ
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Time to up the game. A top rope run to check out the gear. Came off at the low crux a couple of times, decided to lead it.
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| Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
| Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
| 18 ~20 |
★★ Hyaena
— 2 attempts
- with
AJ
| 16m | ||||
|
An epic 4 hour session with 2 lead attempts from me. All that can be said is I got up the thing. Very very hard, pumpy, gear in the way, gibbering, downclimbs, falls, sits, sulking, go for it and pray, swearing, utter shellshock. The gear is fine. Nothing left in the tank. Tom, you are a master sandbagger.
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| Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
| Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Streetwise
- with
Jonno Rau
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Tired, shoulder a bit grumpy. One take.
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| Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Speedy Gonzales
- with
Jonno Rau
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Evidently some work needs to be done here.
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| Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
| Main Cliff | ||||||
| 18 Hard |
★ Roadweary
- with
Jonno Rau
| 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Fell getting out of groove. Last few moves at top had me going.
|
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| 20 |
★★★ Monsterpiece Theatre
- with
Jonno Rau
| 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Draws on, 2 takes.
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| Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Mr Mojo
- with
Gareth
1
22
30m
lead by
John Pitcairn
Great pitch. Pumpy through the crimps, needed a sit. A number of attempts at finding the crux sequence with several chunky falls. Core shot the rope but didn't notice, shiiittt. Belayed at the new lower anchor, removed a loose rock and lowered it.
2
18
30m
lead by
Gareth
Loose rock, lichen, confusing bolting at top, scrabbly topout over loose gravel to overcrowded caveman anchor. Not 19. Removes a star, don't bother, just do P1. | 60m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth
| 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
1 fall at first crux. Hard on the skin.
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| Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 20 Easy |
★★ Klingons
| 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Mucking around looking for a direct through bulge.
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| Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
| Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Volcanic
- with
Gareth
| 18m, 7 | Average | |||
|
Hardish start to high first bolt. The top was a green lichen mess, take a brush.
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| Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
| Main Cliff | ||||||
| 18 Hard |
★ Roadweary
- with
Jonno Rau
| 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Draws on. Definitely had a take, very sharp 2 finger pocket lockoff made me question my life choices. Nice slabbing at top. Think this is harder than Safe Playing.
|
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| 19 |
★★ Safe Playing
- with
Jonno Rau
| 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Draws on. Think I had a take. Not a good day. Need to get out more.
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| Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
| Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Lazy Ass Aucklanders!
- with
Jonno Rau
| 16m, 5 | Average | |||
|
Draws on. Broke a handhold above first bolt and came off. Couldn't be bothered lowering.
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| Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Jonno Rau
| 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Feeling OK at the crux, then discovered I was z-clipped and not going anywhere. Cooked myself undoing that from the crux position then peeled off into the tree trying to make the move. Hauled up then got it. Idiot.
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| Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
| Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ The Rack
- with
John Pitcairn
| 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Still being spanked by the cold, came out of the jam at top, a bit painful, declined to go back up on lead. And why the hell is the entire lower arete chalked up right next to the bomber crack?
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| Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
| Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Galapagos
- with
Gareth, Jonno Rau
| 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Got to the horn fine but had forgotten a sling, getting pumped with cold hands, didn't fancy the runout. Made a guerilla chain of draws to sling it and sat for a shake out. Removed it and finished easily. Next time.
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| Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
| Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Sun Strike
- with
Jonno Rau, Max
| 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Thought I had a shot but had forgotten my own beta. Couple of falls off the arete around bolt 6.
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| 21 |
★★ Sun Strike
- with
Jonno Rau, Max
| 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Feeling up for another shot after a rest but greased out of a pocket before bolt 7, probably had the feet wrong.
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| Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
| Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
| 22 Hard |
★★★ Mister Daddy Long Legs
- with
Jonno, Falcon
| 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Never been on this. Needed a couple of sits. Can't say I like the start or slab much but the layback is pretty neat.
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| Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Gareth, Amy
| 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Haha, unsent again. Had a brain fart at the second crux, one take to sort my shit out rather than take the plummet into the tree again.
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| Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Up N Away
| 10m | Average | |||
|
TRS. Screwed it up.
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| Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 20 Easy |
★★ Klingons
| 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
2nd lap TRS. Played around out right on the bulge, had a sit.
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| Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Career Opportunities
| 13m | Average | |||
|
TR solo. Poor choice of warmup, possibly the hardest 17 on the lower tier. Drifted right, don't do that.
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| Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.
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| Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air)
- with
Gareth
| 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Getting really really humid early afternoon. Foot greased off the crux flake.
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| Wed 2nd Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Korimako
- with
Gareth
| 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
|
Unsent. Felt harder than last time, maybe humidity, maybe some crystals have ground off, maybe the different shoes, maybe just having a shit day.
|
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| Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.
|
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| 22 |
★★ Predator
- with
Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Thought we'd top rope after James led, but no sign of him so got on it with a chalk bag on feeling very sporty. A bit nervy getting first draw on and clipped, then sat on it. Went bolt-to-bolt from there, working out a good sequence among many many chalked-up sucker holds. Managed to get through bolt 5 clean. After bolt 1 it all works best as big moves between jugs.
|
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| Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Great Scott
- with
Gareth
| 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Snaked in front of Alex on his draws before the heat. Barndoored off at the balance crux before finding the sidepull, fingers just caterpillared to it next try. Right of the bolts above the mantle is way easier than any direct. Had a look at the dodgy block on Critters Corner on the way down.
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| Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
| The Beer Garden | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Falling Debris
- with
Jonno, Max, Greg
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
And one on the dog list. Gets pumpy at top. All good but greased off the rail immediately under the anchor, wet hand from puddle in pocket below. Solid fall, banged hip. Pulled back up and sorted it. Nicely shady, will revisit.
|
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| Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
| Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Sun Strike
- with
Gareth, Amy
| 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Too humid, new shoes, no helmet. Fell off right at 2nd to last bolt without getting it clipped. You don't hit the ledge but you do swing into the wall. Had a good shake out then got through it. Cooler conditions would be sensible.
|
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| Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
| Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Sun Strike
- with
Anja, Gareth
| 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
One fall, screwed up the crux dammit, had plenty left. Nice clean fall. This will go soon.
|
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| Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
| Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter
- with
Max, Jonno, Gareth
| 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Cocked up the top moves, took the plunge. Nice clean fall.
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| Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 Easy |
★★ Wild Country Express
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
TRS. There's a sequence, but pumpy and sharp. Have previously logged several ascents of this that were actually Out With The Boys. Tag at the bottom says Pock Mark but that goes further right.
|
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| Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Wild Country Express
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Totally not pock mark. All over the place.
|
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| 18 |
★ Ground Up Ethics
| 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Lockdown makes itself felt. A sit at the crux.
|
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| Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 20 Easy |
★★ Klingons
| 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Went right on bulge, harder. Pumped and a sit. Solo rig working well.
|
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| Tue 3rd Aug 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 Easy |
★★ Wild Country Express
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Rope solo. Lots of pocketses, only some are good. I am evidently not even soft grade 19 material right now.
|
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| 19 Easy |
★★ Wild Country Express
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Rope solo lap 2
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| 19 Easy |
★★ Wild Country Express
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Rope solo lap 3
|
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| Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
| Main Cliff | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Climatic Extension
| 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Lower half a lot more eroded than I remember, quite tricky. Top just pumped me out, hint, stay right. A few rests and a good long fall on the headwall.
|
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| Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
| Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Sun Strike
- with
Fletcher
| 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Can't believe I've never been on it. Great moves up on the arete but too weak to keep it together, several rests. Will be back.
|
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| Sun 14th Mar 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Upper Tier | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ The Shining Path
- with
Wade
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Hot, after Wade led. Happy I wasn't on lead, seems solid for 21. Low crux gave me the most trouble.
|
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| Thu 4th Feb 2021 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
| The Main Cliff | ||||||
| 17 |
★★ Headbangers Arete
- with
Grant Johnston
| 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Oops. Cocked up the moves off the pedestal and found myself back on it without weighting the rope. Counting that as a fall.
|
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| Sun 24th Jan 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 17 |
★★ Manbearpig
- with
Angela Hewlett
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Haha, cocked up the crux, but had a nice big nut above me. It's hard to go in for pro then get back out to make the move, made worse by forgetting my wide palm-off beta from last time. Angela did a much better job.
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| Thu 31st Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Grant Johnston
| 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
A revisit before leaving. Left it too long between attempts, forgot my own beta, fell off into the usual tree, got suckered by face features, had a couple of pumped sits, but got up it, back can't be too bad. Terrific route.
|
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| Wed 30th Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Yacht Club | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Drink Like A Lady (LeD)
- with
Grant Johnston, Gareth
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Suckered too far left by Grant after bolt 2, needed a sit and re-compose but came close to onsight. Wander around is right! Probably suits the light and nimble climber, pretty good, will revisit.
|
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| Mon 28th Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 23 |
★★ Rise Of The Sloths
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
A bit of a back injury test - seems I can't put my shoes on without difficulty, but can still climb OK. Probably starting too far right, a couple of sits on the slab (which is starting to polish), then a long sling on the anchor and first-time fun up top.
|
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| Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
| Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Galapagos
- with
Jonno
| 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Cocked up the traverse bit (too low), fell off. Got pumped, dogged it to the top.
|
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| Sat 12th Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Yacht Club | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Alcoholics Anonymous
- with
Gareth, Wade
| 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Broke a flake hold near the top, couldn't stay on.
|
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| Sat 12th Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Secret Garden | ||||||
| 23 |
★★ Rise Of The Sloths (Rise Of The Sloths P1)
- with
Wade
1
23
12m
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
So close! Pinged a mono stack off around bolt 3. Next time.
|
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| Wed 9th Dec 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 Easy |
★ Built For Comfort
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Rope solo. Fingertip burn skin disintegrating a bit, ow.
|
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| Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Pakeho | ||||||
| Main Crag | ||||||
| 18 |
★★★ Tiger by the Tail
- with
Amy, Tom
| 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Oh dear. Approached via Hunny on my Paws. Had a brain fart and climbed past the clipping jug for the roof, found myself in the crux and unable to clip. Managed to back down to the lip before coming off and hitting the slab a few meters below heel first. Ow. Could have been a lot worse. Climbed up, clipped sensibly and heel hooked through the now well protected crux. Gah.
|
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| Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Quarry Climbing
| 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
First lead attempt. Aborted the crux moves (and my hips), then sorted the angles out but fell off onto a #3 ball nut above. Finally climbed thru to easier ground. Ball nut took some removing. Needs a scrub before next go, moss and pine needles made life more difficult.
|
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| Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Dogs Breakfast
| 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
Bottom now clean but can't see how to climb the arete above first bolt. Good fall off the top, tried to mantle. Then remembered my own beta.
|
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| Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Frog Pond | ||||||
| Access Saddle | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Don Quixoted
- with
Jonno, Greer
| 10m, 3 | Average | |||
|
Harder than it looks. A sit at the second bolt. Beta: stay close to the arete and reach all the way around.
|
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| Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Easy Lay
- with
Alex, Jonno, Fletcher
| 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
So Jonno tells me it's 19, cheers mate ... draws on. One sit. Clipping the draw above the crux then downclimbing takes some sting out, then bridging above the layback is 19-20 ish. Centre is a greasy drain, avoid, apart from the jam. On the revisit list. Nothing clean, another Waipapa spanking.
|
||||||
| Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Tick Tick Tickety Tick
- with
Alex
| 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
A good flail revisiting the crux. But worth pursuing.
|
||||||
| 19 |
★ Kindergarden Kop
- with
Alex
| 12m, 7 | Average | |||
|
Can't do the mantle, long back works against me. Finished up lay back. Again. Bah.
|
||||||
| 17 |
★ Lay Back and Enjoy It
- with
Alex
| 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
First 3 draws on. Slipped at crux. Think 18 is probably right when dirty. Scrubbed it a bit on the way down.
|
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| Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
| Flying Cow Buttress | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Pigs In Space
- with
Colin
| 15m, 10 | Average | |||
|
Warmup with bung knee? WTF Colin? A sit and think at crux then went ok.
|
||||||
| Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Speedy Gonzales
- with
Jonno
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
A good fun old fashioned dangle and thrash. I have a new TRS project. 2nd clip will be nervy.
|
||||||
| Sat 22nd Aug 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Out With The Boys
| 15m, 4 | Average | |||
|
TRS. This is what I get after not climbing in 6 weeks and having a flu. Pumpy pocket bingo, my favourite style, no.
|
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| 18 |
★ Out With The Boys
| 15m, 4 | Average | |||
|
Argh.
|
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| Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 Easy |
★ Built For Comfort
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Not a good finish. Drifted off the arete, got pumped, sat. Don't think I've ever been on this either.
|
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| Sun 31st May 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Quarry Climbing
- with
Grant Johnston
| 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
Another TR burn, a short sit to remember the crux. On the lead list.
|
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| Sun 24th May 2020 - Piarere | ||||||
| Southern Cliff Left of the Spring | ||||||
| 15 |
★ Dai Thrytchyn
- with
Jonno
| 8m | ★ Good | |||
|
A long wander orienting ourselves and thrashing around in the barberry. Nice old school jam crack, hands to tight hands for me. Put a cam in my best jam spot, had a sit and swear. Top out is scrabbly, 1 cam and heel brace anchor for Jonno. It held him.
|
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| Sat 29th Feb 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ Reamed By Percentage
| 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Trying to do the crux without going left, went straight up under the roof, pumpy! Wound up in a compressed little drop-knee bridge facing right at the roof lip, tricky clip position. 1 or 2 sits? Bloody hard to rap-clean.
|
||||||
| Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Respect My Authoritah
- with
Gareth Hall
| 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
WTF Donovan? Fell, sat, had steam coming out my ears trying to figure out the crux. Gritty feet didn't help, but I can't see this being 18.
|
||||||
| Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Point | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ The Sweet and the Savage
- with
Gareth Hall
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Absorbing traverse with good gear. Took a sit before the crux to sort my head out, then committed to the high compressed undercling moves. Getting gear in around the corner had me going a bit after that. Top pitch is maybe a bit stiff for 16, in the same way High Hopes is. Ran both pitches together with acceptable drag, but resulted in poor communication.
|
||||||
| Fri 3rd Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| The Yacht Club | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ The Reach Around
- with
Gareth Hall
| 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Just missed the throw to the hopeful pocket at the top crux, did a rapid down-scuttle to the ledge but unfortunately weighted the rope a bit. Bugger. Got it second throw. This is really good, keeps you thinking the whole way.
|
||||||
| Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
| Cracks Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Rohans Arete
- with
Tim Swain
| 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Cleaned gear on abseil from Blindman's up to first crux from Tim's attempt then had a go. At least one take at each crux remembering the moves, and a fall at the round-the-arete move before getting the balance right. Injured left shoulder definitely limiting some strength and flexibility, pretty happy to even get up it.
|
||||||
| Sat 16th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Quarry Climbing
| 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
A play on top rope, didn't have the head or energy to get on lead. Gear looks decent enough, took a bit of time to work out the crux move at 2nd bolt. Quarry moves indeed! Will be back for this.
|
||||||
| Sat 16th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Star Gazer
- with
Gareth Hall
| 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Getting too pumped. A few sits. Nemesis. Screw it.
|
||||||
| Thu 3rd Oct 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Tick Tick Tickety Tick
| 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Another go with draws on, one fall at the crux. Definitely coming back for this.
|
||||||
| 21 |
★★ Tick Tick Tickety Tick
- with
Travis
| 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Definitely harder than it looks, but I really liked it. Quite technical for a lot of the way. Had a few attempts working out the crux, avoided stepping into Lay Back at the top.
|
||||||
| Sat 28th Sep 2019 - Waipari | ||||||
| Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter
| 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Forgot the sequence and pitched off at top crux, got to do the whole top overhang again.
|
||||||
| Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
| 17 |
The King And I
- with
Angela Hewlett, Colin
| 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Bloody hard sandbag. Sat on first bolt to get my head together. Wonder if pockets have rounded off a bit since 1989?
|
||||||
| Thu 12th Sep 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes
- with
Travis
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
A number of rests, couldn't put it together. Got up it but I am really out of shape.
|
||||||
| Sat 31st Aug 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Lower Tier | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Babs In Toyland (Babes In Toyland)
| 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Manky start but the remainder is OK. The last couple of moves through the bulge might be 19, ran out of steam finding the right pocket to pull and had a sit on the well sited bolt.
|
||||||
| Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
| Upper Tier | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Hare Rama
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Almost. Cleared the branches and pine cones away in the drop zone and anchored the belayer. Spicily high first bolt but prob about 16-17 to there. Severe attack of Elvis leg clipping bolt 3 then pumped and sat on last bolt, damn. Last few moves are easier. Not unhappy given lack of recent climbing. A fine route, will return.
|
||||||
| Sat 29th Jun 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes
- with
Jack Robertshaw, Jono
| 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
3 rests. It's starting to feel like it might go.
|
||||||
| Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
| Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Star Gazer
- with
Atma, Jack Robertshaw
| 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
FInally got up it, with a couple of decent falls on 2nd bolt. A tricky bugger through the lower half, stiff for 18. Stayed over the bolts to the right up high then a very delicate wee step left to meet the top slab of Baby Driver. Really good, will return.
|
||||||
| Thu 13th Jun 2019 - Waipari | ||||||
| Main Cliff | ||||||
| 18 |
★★★ Terror Incognito
- with
Tim Swain, Colin
| 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Took a rest before tackling the headwall.
|
||||||
| 17 18 |
★ Blazing Away
- with
Tim Swain, Colin
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
One sit on the 3rd bolt, a new low point...
|
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