Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

The curving crack and slab originally climbed on gear. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

Accidentally retrobolted. Can now be climbed as sport/trad.

Classic. Get onto wall in corner. Climb arete then onto steep overhanging wall on great holds. Mantle over top to anchors

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

On the other side of the arete for FC.

Climb the arête and up over the bulge, 4 bolts and tree belay. The crux is well protected and a hidden jug will prove to be your salvation.

Ram's horns have been added. There is also a chain around the tree.

Climb to the left of the arete on sharp pockets.

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. The Tuataras head has since been leavered off. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

The arête and the ‘fang’ at half height. Wet at high tide. DBC belay.

Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.

Up the drill hole to ledge, then move right and climb the buttress.

Up thru groove over bulge and crack to get to anchors awkwardly on facing wall.

Technical and interesting climbing leads to an easier top.

Follow the crack up to a flake. Look for the fine foot ledge near the diagonal scar. Up the face on good pockets, a little run out

Starts up grey pillar in center of wall, drifting rightwards. Sustained crimps.

Adds a new start and finish to the original bolted arete of Don't Hurt my Kowhai. Start up the hand line left of Predator and take the rope leading left to reach the line of bolts in the gully.

Pitch 1: (18) Follow the bolts to any anchor above the kowhai tree. (20m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Head up the bolted arete to the anchor. Head left along the hand line to the next pitch. Watch out for dropping anything on the people below you.

Best to combine pitches 1-2 (18 bolts)

Pitch 3: (18) Head up the wall onto the slab to the belay hidden in the shade. (15m, 6b)

Pitch 4: (18) Continue up the line of bolts, but be aware for whip potential. (13m, 6b)

Don't combine pitches 3-4, there is ledge fall potential and the belayer needs to see the leader. You can get down on a 60m with rope stretch from the top of pitch 2, but if unsure make your initial abseil from the top a bit longer to reach the ringbolt and chain hanger 5m further down.

Climb the short slab.

Well spaced bolts around cruxes.

Slab to the left of Australia Boulder. Wet in the winter.

Long slab.

Climb just right of the arete.

Right of ‘The Appendix’ is a steep wall with two bolts. Start on the right side of the wall and climb past the first two bolts to a ledge and a third bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa.

Follow the groove, then traverse right around the roof.

Another excellent grade 18 climb. Get up thru corner, mantle to ledge for tricky moves over bulge and on up to anchors.

Start as for Slightly English up the crack but veer right up the pocket crack after clipping first bolt.

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

Now called "Status Anxiety". Supercedes Cracking up. Diagonal left leaning crack and ramp on left of the overhanging wall. Was originally a natural pro route but now bolted (with permission) and extended to give an out there expedition.

Up through a lightly steep section with some great jugs past 2 bolts then a big move up over the bulge. Nice and easy slab climb to finish, though may be a tad run out for a beginner leader. Double ring lower off.

A cheeky diagonal line which cuts across the middle of the face veering left.

Nice climbing up vertical face to get into the groove (crux). Onto slab at top for a toe crunching experience you won't forget in a hurry.

Most right hand line of bolts. Climb the arete.

On the large block - juggy and steep.

Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof.

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

Line to the left of Cowabunga.

Climb the low arete to reach the overhanging finger crack, continue up this to the ledge. Watch out for loose rock below the anchor. Once graded 20, this is now a fairly pumpy 18. Another anagram...

Nice line with small holds, starting from a small ledge. Crux is getting past the 2nd bolt. Follow thin crack to DBA.

Climb the crack past a flare to a broken ledge (crux), then up past another to the top of the large flake, finishing rightwards through a notch. A well protected classic - gym climbers note it helps if you can jam!

Head up a thinning crack then step across right to access another thin crack. Possible earlier FA unknown.

The controversial and contrived direct finish on the slabby face has been chopped.

Following the left curving line before heading through the slight overhang to the anchor.

Great climb. Straight up shallow groove and arete, mantle across to ledge, then delicate moves back right and up to a ledge, continue up to the same DBC belay as Galapagos.

Just right of cave 1

Straight up the black face

Mantle the low ledge then head up and across the slab to corner. Transition from corner to face then climb the face to the belay.

Fun slab arete climb. Similar to Rohan's Arete, but easier. Starts right of the arete, by the tree.

Up the arete and dihedral then through the overlap.

Use the thin crack and pockets up the steep face then straight through the overhang. Once through the overhang trending left and up a steep corner to the anchor. Initially climbed as a dry tooling route at grade M7, later free climbed.

Up the centre of the wall.

The right-facing corner and crack system.

To the left of 'Lazy Ass Aucklanders!', on the same face. Grade provisional until more information gathered.

The off width crack on left, around the overlap and follow the crack straight up. Anchors slightly to right up on slab.

The clean pillar left of the water streak, move right at the top.

To the left of cave 1

P1: Start in the corner and trend right up to a ledge

P2: Continues up to another ledge.

Slopey first bolt. Enjoyable prow above.

Start at the lowest point of the slab, 2m left of the corner. Can share anchor with Bury the Brass, the 17 to the left, for sport climbing.

Climb the arete to the left of the yellow lichen. Previously equipped with a couple of bolts and hangers then suddenly reverting to naked bolts for the rest of the route (WTF??), now rebolted with lots of hangers all the way by Bryce.

Start up the slab and navigate your way through the first overhang before continuing upwards and left to a second overhang. DBB at 9th bolt can make this two pitches, but better as one if you manage rope drag well.

Nice climbing to a DBB in the middle of the route, continue up past this one and climb some corners with nice moves.

Thin face climbing.

Face climbing with few bolts.

Rightmost line on the left side. Up below the corner roof, then step out right.

Left hand side of the arete and wall. Has been bolted and chopped multiple times, bold protection up through crack to the left. Or a good toprope can be setup from the bolted 17 to the right of the arete.

Climb up a slab to a small overhang.

4 bolts up wall to shared anchor with TMPP.

Climb up the face, then left at the break to shared anchor with Aramuru.

Nice route through some steep terrain then easier climbing the higher you get, anchors are just two hangers with no rings.

Classic climb up the stalactite corner, easy start leads to very steep ground above. Watch for tiny pockets and only use the dead (non furry) stalactite edges for climbing. Amazing views from under stalactites at the top.

6 bolted draws lead to two at the top, watch out some are getting sticky.

A great little climb up an open book corner with an interesting finish where Dave had to use some kiwi engineering.

Start Wasted on the Wing but continue straight up the wall. It's a long way to the first bolt.

Climbs between Working Holiday and Les Femmes. P2 can be a great practice multi-pitch or an extension for the two routes to the right; L.F. and W.U.T

Vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

Used to be a fairly dodgy trad route, now fully bolted for your pleasure. Climb the corner with the wide crack all the way to the top of the headwall.

Face climbing up to a bulge.

Best route on the lower tier. Climb up the right arête, traverse left under the roof then bridge up into the groove (18 as per original guidebook description) or more direct using holds on the edge of the roof/arete (20 ish). Finish up the headwall on the right. Hard to rap-clean, lower with a retaining draw or have somebody second it.

Climb the corner between Carpe Diem & Tuatara on gear placed in the crack. Continue up Tuatara climbing the smooth face past the top bolt.