Routes in Wharepapa South for selected grade

second pitch to azure Pe

Great. Slightly overhanging on good holds to mantle up to anchors.

second pitch of prodigal surfer

Up the right side on good holds to move across face to left and thinner moves to anchors.

up thru corner and crack to the anchors halfway up.

No hangers on bolts.

Nice vertical climbing to big mantle at top.

Bolts in terrible condition.

Highest climb on this wall. Goes up face thru the corner up to anchors. Ton of bolts.

Interesting climb back and footing the whole way up chimney, getting out onto face then up to anchors.

Great corner climb following crack to roof, move left then on up to anchors.

Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.

Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up

Good holds up to first bolt then strong move over to left wall and up slab.

Original route name offensive. Included the word "lycra", which was presumably not the offensive part.

The steep hand crack below the 'Infidel' arete.

The thin crack in the corner, just left of 'Hare Rama'.

Up and over the flake.

Climb the pillar up to the headwall.

Follow right leaning crack. Rock a bit friable.

Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

Vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.

Straight up the wall then easier after the lip.

Great holds on steep face.

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.

Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.

Best route on the lower tier. Climb up the right arête, traverse left under the roof then bridge up into the groove (18 as per original guidebook description) or more direct using holds on the edge of the roof/arete (20 ish). Finish up the headwall on the right. Hard to rap-clean, lower with a retaining draw or have somebody second it.

Head straight up arete into groove on the right of roof (crux). Pumpy.

Up the face and over the bulge at the top, all on good holds.

Pumpy vertical face climb. Has a second pitch to the top but well overgrown above first anchors.

Shares the start of Fence Line for 2 bolts, then goes right to reach the leaning corner, which is followed all the way to the anchor of Crown Of Thistles.

The overhanging groove system directly above the fence is easier than it looks, with a fun exposed traverse to the anchor. Better to second than to rap-clean. Free-hanging abseil off, watch the rope across edges if lowering or top roping.

Bridge up through interesting terrain for a final sting in the tail just below the anchors. Bryce claims it is the best bolted route he has put up on ignimbrite.

From the toe of the buttress head right to a compact crux, then leftish to the lower of 2 anchors.

Further around near the end of the cliff behind a tree is an overhanging groove in a cave that is always in the shade. Not as hard as it looks thanks to some deep pockets.

Climb up the black streak to big ledge. Move right and get onto headwall with thin moves to the top. Great climb.

Mossy start to easy angle slab.

Great technical slab climbing. No rest till the anchors.

Start on crimps, work your way up to good holds on arete to anchors.

Great overhanging start. Up thru tough groove to top.

Hard start up vertical wall, then over onto delicate slab. Licheny slab that has been cleaned now.

Overhanging start on good holds to delicate slab (cleaned of lichen). Tricky moves to get to anchors after slab.

Get up thru corner onto face for great pumpy climbing to top on mostly good holds.

On the northern side of the pinnacle. Up the flat face.

Great climbing on good holds on the slab, then up the face to the anchor. Make sure to use your feet.

Up the easy slab to the overhanging arete. Head up the arete keeping slightly to the right, step left into steep slab, and run it out on the top face.

Through the steep face then onto the slab.

A great climb up the right hand side of the face, but sees little traffic. Start up the back of the boulder as for Dweezil logic and move to the left of the shelf. Belay here from the double bolts, to reduce rope drag. Climb left and out into the steep slabby face and through the bulge.

Climb is located to the left of the large scoop/cave at the base of the boulder. Start left of the bolts. Traverse right to the first bolt then straight up.

Left of Moon Base Alpha, Hard fingery start, easier middle, and exciting finish.

To the left of 'Lazy Ass Aucklanders!', on the same face. Grade provisional until more information gathered.

Slab to the left of Australia Boulder. Wet in the winter.

Climb to the left of the arete on sharp pockets.

Line to the left of Cowabunga.