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Meteor Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 51
5
AU

Seasonality

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Description

The striking angular buttress perched on top of the small hill closest to the Seafund Rd gate. A few easy routes on highly featured faces with compelling views and exposure. SEE DESCENT NOTES REGARDING TOP ANCHORS.

Access issues inherited from Sheridan Hills

For Biosecurity reasons, follow this new procedure for permission to climb at Sheridan. No exceptions, don't blow it for everyone.

Entry is only permitted to Rock Climbing groups, no others.

You must have clean footwear that hasn't been worn anywhere where there have been cattle within the last 24 hours. This includes other local crags.

Abide by all NZ Alpine Club rules (see the sign left of the Seafund Road gate).

EACH TIME you enter the property, send a text message to 027 527 1744 with:

1 - Your full name and place of residence

2 - The number of people in your party

3 - Another form of contact, ie email, home address, etc.

IF NO TEXT IS RECEIVED YOU WILL BE ASKED TO LEAVE.

Sending the text message acknowledges you and your party will abide by all the above rules. There is no longer a logbook to sign. A QR code is available but this DOES NOT replace the requirement to send a txt as above.

Do not block the gate, park well back along the road! Leave gates open or closed as you found them. No dogs. This is private farm land so must be respected.

Any queries, phone 027 527 1744.

Descent notes

PLEASE NOTE REGARDING DESCENDING FROM ROUTES: Not all routes on the Meteor Buttress are equipped with a double-bolt anchor. There are three single bolts with short chain spaced approx 1 meter apart on top of the buttress near the west end that can be reached by topping out, and could be used to rap down the sides of the buttress. At the far east end there are two DBC anchors that could also be used. A bolt and chain was added March 2021 at the west end, making a DBC anchor to abseil from. Plan how to get down and retrieve gear before starting up.

TAKE EXTREME CARE IF WALKING ALONG THE TOP OF THE BUTTRESS AND USE APPROPRIATE SAFETY MEASURES.

Routes

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Grade Route

Direct route up the west-facing narrow end of the buttress. Flat face with large pockets, underclings and edges make for varied moves. Great surrounding and rewarding top-out. Two Bolts and chains near the base for belayer to anchor in.

NOTE: The Double-bolt chain anchor at the top of "unknown climb" can be used to get down. At the far end (East end) there are two DBC anchors that could also be used. Plan how to get down and retrieve gear before starting up.

FA: Dave Garrity & Craig Miller, 1991

Climbs the north face (right hand end) of Meteora Buttress. To the left of "Terrapin" There are 2 bolts to protect the belayer at the bottom, the older ONE with the hanger IS LOOSE! the newer one with the 10mm chain link is a bit better, BUT the rock is not much better than PUMICE so don't have a party hanging on them!! As you climb up the rock improves a little. In some parts when you bang the rock it sounds hollow. Probably not a good route too hang dog! The Double bolt Chain anchor. I added a bolt (230 mm X12mm) and chain March 2021. "Terrapin" can use this anchor, although it IS NOT in direct line with Terrapin.

FA: Phillip Garrity

Some one had to get to the top first. Dave soloed then bolted later.

FA: Dave Garrity, 1991

This is the longest climb on Meteora Buttress. It climbs the South east arete, the only one that can seen from the road side car park.

FA: Dave Garrity, 6 Sep 2015

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Wed 10 May
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