Routes in North America fa between 2020-09-24 and 2020-10-01

Variant de Fissure Inconnue. Finir dans la fissure du toit aux relais Déferlance.

Départ dans la craque de birthday boy et transfert dans la ligne de Bolt à gauche

Basically a boulder problem, but easy to rope off for it. Located far right side of established climbing area. Tough crimpy crux.

Description Pull through a couple large ledges to the base of the dihedral halfway up the wall. Make some big moves on jugs to reach the anchor.

Location This is the last route to the right on the Geometry Wall. Start by pulling yourself up to the large ledge.

Protection 5 bolts and quick clips to lower off

Without the extension is 5.10b 18m with 6 bolts.

With the extension is 5.11 22m with 8 bolts.

Relais équipé

Start just left of first bolt on juggy rail. Pull though the overhang trending right though more juggy rails. Find one of the many ways from the third bolt straight up the slab. Alternate start goes straight up from the first holds into the small dihedral and then heads right over the first bolt -- goes 9+ and avoids the glorious jugs. Most of the action is before the first bolt, stick clip recommend.

As Traversi dputs it: “Empath is slightly overhanging, about 65 feet tall and it’s difficult all the way from the bottom to the anchors. It’s a power endurance test piece with very few resting positions. The minimal shake spots are on bad liebacks with smears for feet. The route revolves around squeezing this refrigerator-like feature from bottom to top. There are only two down-pulling holds on the entire route. One of the uniquely difficult aspects of the climb is that your left hand is always on the ‘good’ holds and your right hand is always on bad holds. Your left arm gets completely smoked, because there are few opportunities to rest it.”

Middle route on the streaked black/white wall.

Middle route on the streaked black/white wall.

Climber's left of the streaked black/white wall. Enjoyable face climbing through small roof.

Arrancas desde el agarre grande de la derecha y avanzas a hacia la izquierda usando los agarres cercanos al filo, continuas hacia la laja grande para subir al filo y avanzar por el hasta la salida en la izquierda del bloque.

Sales del agarre más grande y vas hacia la izquierda evitando los agarres cercanos al filo, continuas hasta la laja grande y avanzas hacia la izquierda sin usar el filo hasta el final del bloque.

Sales desde la derecha avanzando por el filo hasta rodear el bloque.

Who knows what any of these things are graded. This is harder than the candle, maybe hardest line of the boulder, maybe V5-ish, no idea... Sit start: with left hand on the right hand start from The Candle, and right hand on the right corner. I used a right foot below me and a left foot on the start foot from The Candle. Go up right hand to a narrow thin matchbook pinch and then up to topout. Video Here.