Routes as sport in North America

Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left.

Try not to be lured off route by the chalk and crumbly jugs on the far left under the roof. Stay true to the bolt line for the full experience - and grade.

Shares start with "Porn Star Obsession" but trends right. Used to be 11c, but a loose block was trundled making it much harder at the crux.

The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds.

This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S".

The perfect warm-up, super nice climbing on mostly good holds.

Con bandas permanentes. Empieza por un boulder a una repisa y después a la pared desplomada. Muy divertida, calentamiento oficial. Tiene extensión 5.12a, armada por Aaron Jelt.

---ENG---

Follow the permadraws. Climb over a large boulder in the wall to pockets above. Super fun, official warm-up. With extension 5.12a, bolted by Aaron Jelt.

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

The historically run-out (though with a clean fall) finish has, apparently, now had a bolt installed to protect it, above the crack in which the (historical, optional) piece would have been placed.

(Finish was a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack. The block below the crack is hollow and a fall on gear could dislodge it.)

Anchor is in a big detached block.

Ruta divertida, buenos agarres de dedos.

12 bolts + 2 reunión con permanentes (08/22)

"Veinte años después" es un diedro. Es buena ruta para principiantes.

Starts on the big separated block and continues on the head wall. Rebolted with glue ins November 2015.

Record de tiempo protegiendo cada una de las bandas: 2:00 David Ramiro Zúñiga

Climb a short face to a short slab to a bulge. Pull the bulge/roof to a ledge to the right. Then up and left over another bulge, then right to the anchors.

Probably the most climbed-on route at Down Under, often used as a warm-up. Below and to the right of the small cave at the top is an interesting no-hands rest.

Climbs over the same roof as Desert Trip to its right, with more consistent but easier climbing.

14 bolts + 2 permanent lower-offs (may '22)

A very well bolted line on the climbtech hangers. Follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles.

Start 5 feet left of cuba libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt.

Starts on the right side of the big boulder (4 bolts, 3 behind the block), then sketchy move to get to the wall. If you go straight the grade is 5.11b+, but if at the crux you go left then it is a 5.11a.

Now (spring 2017) cleaned & bolted as a sport route, with a label stone as "Too Many Puppies 5.8S" - was graded 5.4 in the 80s as a trad route.

Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Follow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam.

About 100m right of Calabogie Sunset you will come around a bit of a corner to an easy-angled face with a couple bolt lines up it.

This now (fall, 2012) has a plaque at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Left 5.9".

This is the left-most of the two bolt lines. The first bolt is a bit high, so a placement before this bolt could help, though the climbing is also fairly easy. Crack has been retro-bolted with FA permission.

There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them.

This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left.

Climb easily to a high first bolt, then follow the glue-ins past a couple small roofs using a sharp arete.

Name-stone at base.

Esta ruta es muy clásica y es de las mas escaladas en esta pared. Es muy cortita y es buena para calentar.

This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner.

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

2. (5.9) More bolts.

3. (5.9) Left from the anchor, then trend rightwards. (Straight up instead of rightwards is the 5.11b variation.)

4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then up and right again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation)

5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

6. (5.5) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

7. (5.6) Keep going up the ramp.

8. (5.10a) Bolts, watching for a turn left and up.

9. (5.9) Bolts.

10. (5.10b, 5.9+ if you skip the crux by using jugs to the right of the line) Bolts.

11. (5.10a) Bolts.

12. (5.7) Up the chimney.

Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Permadraws at anchor (nov'22).

Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn.

Starts just right of Honey Bear with a crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.First bolted winter 2001 and rebolted with glue November 2015.

Start up a blocky corner with big holds. After clipping the first bolt, step left onto a right-facing slab. At the top of the slab, climb a steeper face on good holds, them move right to the anchor.

Good climbing throughout.

In the lower part of the cliff there is a nearly vertical about 9" wide pink dike that protrudes out from the rest of the cliff by an inch or two, and a bolt line running up it.

Mr Clean climbs the dike, and face above, to anchors.

short route.

Ruta corta con inicio cruxoso y sobado.

Obvious roof with a big hole on it.

Climb up the ramp out of the gorge, staying along the arete. Nice climbing with beautiful views.

P1. 5.7 20m, 4 bolts

P2. 5.7 45m, 8 bolts (don't stop at the first anchor -- this is just an intermediate rap station)

P3. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts

Pitch 3 Variation: 5.10c climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location.

NOTE: The trail from the car park IS the way to go as per the update on Quickdraw Publications. Its is a well maintained trail with just a shitty move on scree slope but totally safe, much quicker than walking the same distance and then raping. If for whatever mysterious reason you want to rap, the rap station is 5 meter left of the chains from top of start check as per pic below. Can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope or 3 with a 60m. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE extremely likely that someone is climbing it and you will be on their way, rock fall possible from the top, and its 4 raps instead of 3 if you chose the rap station

El proyecto principiante por excelencia de pericos, se dice que si encadenas la papita ya puedes decir que eres intermedio.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo2oLJmgo2g

Ruta para principiantes, sostenida y divertida. For beginners, fun and sustained

Starts on top of the "middle flake" and finishes with the nice grey tufa. The classic warm-up with great moves on solid stone.

One of the first routes on Las Animas.Classic.

The crux is at the roof, the 3rd bolt. Beneath the roof is a nice finger pocket for the left hand and then a nice layback for the right. Just above the roof line is a good right hand and then fire up and to the right of the 3rd bolt by a couple feet for a very good jug.

Name stone at base suggests grade is 5.11a.

The middle bolt line up the cliff.

Formerly an X trad route, now a very closely bolted sport route. This is a good lead for a beginning lead climber.

Has a metal plate with the name on it. Tiene placa de metal con el nombre.

really fun moves, lots of footholds. movimientos divertidos, muchas pisaderas.

Left most climb on south facing wall

From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang, much harder if you are shorter than about 5'8". Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Starts on the right side inside the cave and leads out to an anchor just next to the big tufa.

Climbing through hidden jugs on a steep wall, a lot harder than it looks. The leftmost route on the wall. This is actually one of the worst routes on this wall, despite its popularity. If it is your first time here and looking for something easy, better try Chukrut, it is a lot friendlier and fun.

Este es el comienzo de un Multilargo de tres pitches, el cual no tiene nombre. Después del primer pitch, es una ruta bastante abandonada, llena de piedra suelta y mucho arbusto espinoso. Esta muy interesante como vas escalando por el filo de la montaña, con muchos balcones para descansar. Todos los pitches son 10a, con muy buenos agarres. Estaría bien limpiar la ruta, ya que es una muy buena opción para un multi para principiantes. Bajas usando las cadenas de “La Hiedra”, ya que acaban en el mismo lugar.

Suggested grades have ranged from 10a to 11a on this equivocal route. At odds are the bolt line and the obvious path of least resistance left of the roof. 10c seems an honest compromise between the two, but every step farther left probably drops the route a letter grade.

A bouldery start leads to large jugs to the top.

This newly bolted slab climb could top out onto Eagles Nest lookout. Hike up the slope past 'Coward's Way Out' and find the slab with glue in bolts on the left just where the trail levels off. The first 18 meters of this climb goes at about 5.5, maybe easier if you stay closer to the corner with one committing move to get to the anchor.

Not 100% sure who set this, so a few more assents to confirm the grade would be appreciated. Also to add a name by the FA.

Face climbing on cool pebbles.

About 20m past Shanti, glue-in bolts up a slab with a small tree at the base.

Plaque labelling it as "Aint No Wifey 5.8 S", but grade is no harder than 5.6.

7 + Reunión con mosquetones permanentes

Grieta corta de color naranja y con agarres muy peculiares. Súper clásica.

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7 + Anchor with permanent lower-offs

Short orange crack with very peculiar holds. Must do!

Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. First bolted gound up in 2001 but rebolted with glue November 2015.

"Yadda yards yadda best sport climb in Canada......" Listen to the spray people say when they get off this pearler!Pumpy climbing on beautiful jugs and flakes. Absolutely classic.....

A few meters right of "Ain't no wifey", another line of glue-in bolts run up the cliff.

Plaque labelling as "Cheat Stick 5.8 S" at the base, but climb is no harder than 5.7.

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

A large rock has fallen from midway up the route. The remaining rock is not secure and avoiding it bumps up the difficulty. Still not 5.8 though

One of the most sort after 11's in the Bow Valley. Every hold is a jug with a few sequences gaining the lip and exiting it (crux). Ridiculously fun and pumpy!

This Potrero classic was bolted entirely on the weekends. Starts just north of the pavilion. Loose rock. Helmet recommended. Please be careful of the partying Mexicans below. This route has been climbed in 2 1/2 hours, car to car. Take 20 draws if you combine pitches, works well for 1&2, 3&4 and on top. You have to rap from the dedicated rap station below the bulge (belay station 3 after pitch 4) if you have a 60m rope.

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.

A must do for everyone not alergic to bats.Start on the lower left part of the upper csve and follow the bolts through the tunnel to exit on top of the upper wall. Mega Classic.

Climb up blocky ledges to a slabbier head wall.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

"Best 5.8 in Potrero." according to Dane's guidebook.

First climb right of the dihedrals, goes past an intermediate anchor after 5 bolts.

"El mejor 5.8 de potrero" según la guía de Dane Bass.

Primera ruta a la derecha de los diedros, pasando una reunión inteedia despues de la quinta placa.

Ruta técnica, pocos descansos naturales, con un par de hebras de casi 3 metros. Starts just left of the blocks with a low first bolt and follows left of the crack higher up.

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Starts where the staircase hits the wall.

Recently re-bolted (as of 2014), 8 bolts to first anchor and 3 for the extension. 5.10a to intermediate anchor, 5.10b to final anchor.

Es la primera ruta de derecha a izquierda, hay algunas varillas oxidadas en el inicio de la ruta.

The third route going up the staircase. Its a very nice and easy roof with huge holds, easy to read.

6 largos los niveles son: 10a, 11c, 10-, 9, 10+ (diedro) 7 (2 plaquetas). Muy buena ruta, algo de roca suelta. Lleven unas 14 bandas, porq el 11 esta muy bien protegido.

6 pitches: 10a, 11c, 10-, 9, 10+, 7

Hay que llevar algo para ecualizar bien la reunión; por cómo está la roca las placas de la reunión tuvieron que ponerse muy separadas.

A nice lead, though many seem to skip the first bolt, and start right of it to climb to 2nd bolt.

Después de un boulder de una roca alta, está el primer bolt

Perma-draws. Very nice athletic moves.

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

Start between a pair of trees, just left of Little Flo. Short vertical start, to obtain the slab, then slab the rest of the way.

Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors.

Recomended 80m rope. Knot the end of your rope.

With shorter than an 80m rope, bring 2nd up and rappel twice using the anchor of "Flying Scorpions" to the right.

With a long/stretchy 70m rope, and a heavy climber, you might make it within acceptable scrambling distance of the ground.

Starts just right of the dry bush. Follows the tufa and small break trending left to an anchor just below the small roof.

Stick clip? 3 bolts for this one. Gym like climb!

flake to intriguing face climbing

The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3.

Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

Ruta establecida en trad, la primera sección por Adrian Elizondo El Pirulo y la extensión sección por Carlos Flores El Russo tmbn en Trad. Paco Medina equipó la ruta de manera deportiva.

Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

Short route with anchor right of the small tree. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny. Watch the loose blocs above the anchors.

Starts on top of the right (pointy) flake.

The 3rd bolt line on Spindrift Wall. Climb the face just outside the corner that is Arachnophobia.

Generously bolted route; bolts can be skipped and pitches linked. Bring lots of draws or be ok with run out to skip bolts in order to link pitches (all pitches are <25m, last 2 are ~10m each).

Pitch: # bolts (does not include anchors) 1: 8 bolts? 2: 15 bolts 3: 11 bolts 4: 10 bolts 5: 11 bolts 6: 13 bolts 7: 5 bolts 8: 12 bolts 9: 3 bolts 10: 4 bolts

Grieta hacia la izquierda

Start on the dark grey streak.

Going up the yellow rock with a bulge in the middle.Classic crimping up orange bomber rock.