Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.8 | ★★★ Diedre
1
5.7
50m
2
5.6
20m
3
5.8
40m
4
5.8
35m
5
5.7
40m
6
5.8
35m
FFA: Bob Woodsworth & Glenn Woodsworth, 1962 FA: Jim Baldwin & Jim Sinclair, 1962 | 220m, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.5 G | ★★★ Horseman
FA: Hans Kraus & Fritz Wiessner | 46m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane
Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top. Belay the second from the top. Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century" FFA: Anders Ourom & John Arts, 1978 | 30m | Squamish | ||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route
An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.
| 430m, 15 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 G | ★★★ High Exposure
FA: Hans Krauss & Fritz Wiessner †, 1941 | 70m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.5 G | ★★ Jackie
1
5.5 G
2
5.3 G
| 40m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike
Bolts replaced in 1992. FFA: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 550m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite
FFA: Royal Robbins & Liz Robbins, 1967 | 180m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Calculus Crack
1
5.7
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.8
5
5.7
6
5.0
First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;
| 150m, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.4 | ★★ Bunny
FA: Ann Church & Kris Raubenheimer, 1955 | 43m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Banana Peel
1
5.4
25m
2
5.0
30m
3
5.5
15m
4
5.7
30m
5
5.4
15m
6
5.7
30m
7
5.4
50m
8
5.4
50m
220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.
FA: Dan Tate & Barry Hagen, 1965 | 250m, 8 | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★★ Frog's Head
FA: Lorens Logan & Fritz Wiessner † | 52m | Shawangunks | ||
5.3 | ★★ Three Pines
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott & Del Wilde, 1941 | 61m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Burgers and Fries
FA: Jim Manuel, Ed Spat & Brian Denhertog, 1979 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus
FA: Dick Mitten & Dave Lane, 1977 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★★ Rhododendron
This classic route is short but sweet. It offers great hand crack action while still having plenty of face holds for the non-crack-initiated (great learning spot!). Bolted anchors easily accessed via the Dirty Chimney. FA: Dick Bonker & George Lewis | 24m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 PG13 | ★★★ Double Cross
Warning: The first 20 feet of this climb offers tricky protection and have sent many an unprepared climber to hospital. | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Wisecrack
FA: Barry Wiseman, Bob Wilson & Terry Spurell, 1980 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Quarryman
Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection FA: Robin Barley & Chuck Mullard, 1981 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Bishop's Terrace
Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch. FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959 FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960 | 55m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Skywalker
1
5.7
30m
2
5.8
25m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.6
20m
5
5.4
30m
Bolted belay stations! A classic moderate that you can add some flare to if you want! To the right of Magic Carpet Ride, you'll find the very obvious clean start.
Walk off to climber's right. FA: Jeremy Frimer & friends, 2011 | 140m, 5, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Mosquito
Solid 5.8. Climb the finger-to-hand layback crack through a bulge to easier climbing above. FA: Jim Campbell & Alun Hughes, 1980 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.4 | ★★ Route B
Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors. Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.6 | ★★ Neruda
The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors. The grade has inspired much debate. FA: J. Cotter & R. Halka, 1983 | 8m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade
FFA: Dean Hart FA: Ray Parker, 1982 | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Laurel
Well deservedly popular route. Crack starts as fingers, grows to fists by the end. Footholds at the bottom are very polished, and the opening moves bouldery. The gear placement is great, the moves are nice, it's easy enough for newbies to try and hard enough for experienced folk to enjoy. Short, but hits the sweet spot. Bolted anchors can be easily accessed via the dirty chimney. FA: Thornton Read, Norton Smithe & Lester Germer | 15m | Shawangunks | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy
One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch). FA: Jim Bridwell et al., 1973 | 170m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ The Zip
Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up. FA: Ward Robinson & Blake Robinson, 1979 | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.5 | ★★ Route C
Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.7 | ★★ After Six
Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4. Pro to 2". FFA: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider, 1965 | 180m, 6 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Klahanie Crack
| 30m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★★ The Bastille Crack
1
5.7
2
5.6
3
5.7
4
5.6
5
5.5
One of the most climbed routes in North America: Almost no approach, 350 feet of moderate crack climbing and all day shade. FA: US Army climbers, 1954 FFA: Stan Shepard & Allen Bergen, 1957 | 110m, 5 | Boulder | ||
5.5 | ★ Flaky Flake
Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors. FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975 | 18m | Calabogie | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool
| 30m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Cat Crack
FA: Tami Knight & Peter Croft, 1978 | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.5 | ★ Route A
Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top. FA: Mark Duval, 1970 | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Exasperator
1
5.10a
20m
2
5.10c
30m
FA: Jim Sinclair & Jim Baldwin, 1960 FFA: Eric Weinstein & Dave Nicol, 1975 | 50m | Squamish | ||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack
FA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961 FFA: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967 | 110m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Butt Light
1
5.8
2
5.5
3
5.7
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.7
From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress. P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope. P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain. P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor. P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor. P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top. FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010 | 190m, 7, 4 | Squamish | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Angel's Crest
1
5.10b
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.6
5
5.10a
6
5.5
7
5.10a
8
5.9
9
5.5
10
5.8
11
5.7
12
5.10a
13
5.8
Angel's Crest is a classic 5-star multi-pitch route that is one of the longest and most adventurous 5.10 routes on the Chief. This route ascends the "north arete", the entire ridge to the R of the North Gully.
The original final pitch moved up the face directly above and behind the crack of the previous pitch, avoiding the chimney. Alternate start to get around people:
FA: Les MacDonald, Hank Mather & Fred Beckey, 1962 FFA: D.Loecks, P. Charak, L. DuBois & P. Charak L. DuBois, 1975 | 600m, 13, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Boomstick Crack
1
5.7
2
5.5
FA: Jim Baldwin, Jim Sinclair & Poul Nielsen, 1961 | 60m, 2 | Squamish | ||
5.3 | ★ Back to the Wall
Start about 6m right of the Main Corner, and climb the face up to a 2-bolt anchor. Lots of variations possible. | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack
| 30m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block
Climb the obvious crack that leads to blocks about 3m right of the arete (Broken Corner). Variations around the "block" are possible. FA: unknown | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam
| 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ One Up
About 2m left of Main Corner is a thin crack that leads up to a ledge and a continuation of the crack above the ledge. 2 Bolts as anchors. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.6 | ★★ Munginella
Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel. FFA: Tom Fender & Vic Tishous, 1966 | 110m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Sail Away
Super classic crack climb. | 26m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Up From the Bog
FA: 1960 | 18m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy
A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall. Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5. FA: D Haumann & M Peer, 1959 | 25m, 1 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.9 | ★★★ St. Vitus' Dance
1
5.7
2
5.8
3
5.8
4
5.9
5
5.9
6
5.5
Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.
Descent:
Or
| 150m | Squamish | ||
5.3 | ★ Inside Corner
Starts a meter or so right of Main Corner, then up onto a sloping ledge (ramp) and upwards to the corner above. 2 bolts for anchor. | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.6 | ★★★ Cat in the Hat
One of the most popular multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks due, at least in part, to large comfortable belay ledges the whole way. Can be rappelled on one 70m rope with a bit of 4th class down-climbing, or with two ropes. Starts below an obvious left-slanting crack.
FA: Harrison, Broussard & Van Betten | 210m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.4 PG | ★★★ Gelsa
FA: Becket Howorth, George Temple & Fritz Wiessner † | 61m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.6
120ft
2
5.8
40ft
3
5.8
100ft
4
5.7
100ft
5
5.10c
100ft
6
5.8
100ft
7
5.7
120ft
8
5.8
130ft
9
5.7
100ft
10
5.8
140ft
11
5.7
120ft
About 12 single rope Rapels Description is for climber facing the cliff Locate the rap anchor a few meters to the left Rap diagonally to the left towards a distinct triangular block, NOT steight down The next anchor is to the left hand side Rap towards the groove with the tree Do not pass the tree stop 3-4meters before. Look left it's not super obvious but that's where the next Rap anchor is Take care with the rope on this rap that it doesn't get caught on the trees 20m or so below. Flake it on yourself /harness. From this point on the raps are straight forward down the face. Easy to locate, even with a headtorch if you are rappeling in the dark. Apart from maybe rap 8 or 9 where the face becomes less slabby. The Rap is a little bit more to the left Very good Route! Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains... We linked 3-4 easy And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch I would suggest not linking 1 with 2 The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking We aided the bolted pitch Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap than do the walk off.. FA: W. Harding, J. Davis & B. Swift, 1954 FFA: F. Sacherer & E. Leeper, 1965 | 360m, 9 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★★ The Squamish Buttress
1
5.8
2
5.5
3
5.7
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.10c
7
5.6
From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress. P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope. P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain. P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \ P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead. FA: Fred Becky, Henryk Mather & Don Claunch, 1959 FFA: Peter Charak & Joe Turley, 1979 | 210m, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Slot Machine
1
5.9
32m
2
5.6
20m
2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams FA: Bob Milward & Jim Campbell, 1983 | 52m, 2 | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Rambles
1
5.7
30m
2
5.7
30m
3
5.7
20m
4
5.8
10m
Start at the left side of the lower apron.
Can be linked into just two pitches. | 90m, 4, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Commitment
Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff. FFA: Jim Bridwell, David Bircheff & Phil Bircheff, 1966 | 100m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 G | ★★★ The Ceiling
FA: William Shockley & Doug Kerr, 1953 | 82m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Laughing Crack
Well protected finger crack. You could probably climb it with just nuts. FA: Glenn Payan, 1995 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Church Bowl Lieback
4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1". FFA: unknown, 1987 | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ Phasers on Stun
Start directly behind a cedar tree at the base of the cliff. There is a distinctive curving crack around a bulge 7m up the face. Climb straight up to this crack, continue up to a small roof, then traverse left 2m under the roof. Either continue traversing left to an easy exit, or climb straight up through the a notch in the roof ( a bit harder, maybe 5.6). Anchors. FA: L Yanosik & R Halka, 1975 | 18m | Calabogie | ||
5.10 | ★★★ Supercrack of the Desert
FA: Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1976 | 30m, 3 | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police
Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.) Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start. FA: S. Montgomery, 1992 | 16m, 4 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | ★★ Bilbo Baggins
Climbs just left of the corner that "Sour Grass" climbs -- pick one of two starts to a left-slanting crack and follow this. | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★ Jamcrack Route
1
5.7
2
5.9
5.7 hand crack with V at top to ledge; move left a few feet then 5.9 fingers crack to second anchor. | 53m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.3 | ★ Main Corner
The obvious "main corner". 2 bolts for an anchor at top. FA: S Heiberg & D Weichert, 1961 | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 II | ★★★ Dark Shadows
Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below. FA: Nick Nordblom & Jon Martinet, 1979 | 100m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.6 | ★★★ Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
1
5.4
50'
2
5.6
80'
3
5.6
80'
FA: Hans Kraus & Harry Snyder, 1943 | 64m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
5.8 | ★★ Pixie Corner
FA: Joe Buszowski & Paul Fodchuck, 1978 | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century
Set: Anders Ourom FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior
| 46m | Seneca | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Snake
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.9
6
5.7
| 220m, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.5 | ★ Arch
FA: Hans Kraus & Bonnie Prudden | 79m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Rock On
1
5.8
35m
2
5.8
20m
3
5.9
20m
4
5.10a
50m
5
5.7
15m
FA: Hamish Mutch & Bob Woodsworth, 1966 FFA: Peter Croft & Aaron Johnstone, 1981 FFA: Bob Milward & Jim Campbell, 1983 | 140m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.9
160ft
2
5.10b
70ft
3
5.6
55ft
4
5.6
125ft
5
Class 3
80ft
6
5.8
155ft
7
5.8
130ft
8
5.9
65ft
9
5.9
130ft
10
5.5
100ft
11
5.8
160ft
12
5.7
150ft
13
5.6
70ft
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark. After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road FA: Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Bill Long & Willi Unsoeld, 1953 | 440m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Regular Route
FFA: Wally Reed & Chuck Pratt, 1958 | 300m, 12 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Corrugation Corner
1
5.6
140ft
2
5.7
130ft
3
5.7
190ft
FA: Kurt Edsburg & et al, 1960 | 140m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 | ★ Cornflakes
FA: Nick Didlick & Mike Goetz, 1976 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★ Calabogie Sunset
Start 3m right of 'First Flight', underneath a small overhang 5m above the ground. Climb up and to the right on small holds, bypassing the overhang on its right side. Continue more or less straight to the top. There is one bolt below the bulge and a 2nd bolt just over the lip of the bulge. The route has 3 bolts, takes some gear as well, and finishes with bolted anchors. | 15m, 3 | Calabogie | ||
5.5 G | ★ Fingerlocks or Cedar Box
| 18m | Shawangunks | ||
5.5 G | ★ Black Fly
Starts a few meters (yards) right of Easy, up an easy right angling-corner ramp. Step right onto a small ledge, then up crack systems towards a small roof; exit on the left and finish up the crack. FA: Gardiner Perry & John Bousman, 1959 | 32m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Ken's Crack
FA: Ken Prestrud & Lucien Warner | 15m | Shawangunks | ||
5.6 | ★★ Thin Air
For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse. FA: John Turner & Craig Merrihue, 1956 | 91m, 4 | Cathedral Ledge | ||
5.9 | ★★ Memorial Crack
Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top. | 35m | Squamish | ||
5.10d | ★★ Security
Climb up a thin crack and then move right to a bolt. Climb up past another bolt to the anchors. FA: J Cotter & R Halka, 1983 | 8m, 2 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center
Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing. Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4". FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963 FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963 | 58m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11a | ★★★ The Grand Wall
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.10b
5
5.11a
6
5.11a
7
5.10a
8
5.10c
9
5.6
Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors. You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge". P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed. Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike. FA: Ed Cooper & Jim Baldwin, 1961 | 300m, 9 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★ Grant's Crack
| 24m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★ Head Banger
Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once past the third bolt, it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts. | 14m, 4 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★ Twin Cracks
| 12m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.8 | ★★ Phlegmish Dance
FA: Peter Croft (solo), 1978 | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Bear's Reach
1
5.7 R
120 ft
2
5.7
120 ft
3
5.7
120 ft
FFA: Phil Berry & Robin Linnett, 1956 | 110m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 | ★★ After Seven
An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.
Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six. Pro to 2". FFA: unknown | 79m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.0 | ★★★ Birthday Ridge
This is Bon Echo's first route, and remains the traditional introduction for beginning climbers. (There is a 5.0 variant.) Start: the tree-filled gully north of The Pinnacle
2a. 30m (5.0) Climb corners and ledges up and left to the silver birch belay at the end of the standard 2nd pitch. (Was in the database as "The Birthday Route". No route with that exact name existed, this seemed the most likely match.) | 90m, 2 | Bon Echo | ||
5.4 | ★ Dusty Eyes
Start at a large lone boulder and follow the left crack all the way to the top. FA: Keith Rajala & Dave Harris, 1981 | 30m | Squamish | ||
5.1 | ★★ Kiddie Korner
The obvious crack that angles up leftwards on the left side of the main face. Follow this up to blocky ground, then angle up rightwards following the crack to a pair of bolts for an anchor. Generally a good trad lead, taking good gear. Opening moves into the corner are far far harder than the rest of the route, perhaps 5.6 or higher. Can be avoided by a bit of slab climbing up the face just to the right, until reaching the good hand ledge & traversing left into the corner at about 5.3. | 25m | Kingston Mills | ||
5.8 | ★★★ The Spirit of Squamish
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5.7
2
5.8
3
5.6
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5.7
5
5.8
6
5.8
7
5.7
8
5.6
New mulitpich that carries on above Klahanie crack. FA: Aaron Kristiansen & Cameron Hunt, May 2021 | 210m, 8 | Squamish | ||
5.7 G | ★★★ Something Interesting
| Shawangunks |