Routes in North America for selected grade

Climbs the easternmost of the three major south buttresses of Combatant above the col. Approached via a bench at the elevation of the col (the Shelf)

Inicio técnico, con salida a desplome y cazuelas , comparte seccion superior con papanicolau

Descend the pocket glacier to the base of the southeast buttress. Climb this buttress, through sandy broken terrain and with poor protection in places in the first ~75m. Above this, the rock improves up a steep yellow slab to a small gendarme. Descend into the notch and climb easier ground above to the summit.

Descend as per the West Ridge (down that route.)

Goes to bypass anchor.

Climb the black, lichen-covered depression in the south face, following corner systems to the east ridge, then to the summit.

First bolt line to the right of Pump o Rama. The rating can change doe to breaking of holds. Make certain all anchor bolts are connected.The grade on this climb has changed several times.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

Relais équipé

Bolted line between Among the Stars and Aphrodite. Thin and technical down low, easing toward the top.

Begins off of the ledge atop Hollow Flake, Zamboni Man and Sprout Route. Follows the line of bolts to climber's right of the tree. Low crux leads to sustained and enjoyable friction.

un diesecito largo, el crux esta a la mitad es un paso de izquierda a derecha. preferentemente cuerda de 70 metros

Actually a top rope route.

The rock is a bit crunchy and sharp on this one. A thin move guards the moves up to the chains. The holds on this are a bit harsh on the fingers!

This route takes more or less a strait shot through the center of the main face of Eagle Rock and requires some very thin face climbing skills.

Look for the marker piton at it's base. Begin by climbing the dirty right facing corner until you can make a short traverse right into a low angle arching crack. Place little gear here as it will produce rope drag as you climb higher. Climb up to a nice short ledge with a bolt. Hand traverse right before climbing back left up a ramp. Several bolts and some gear will bring you to a two bolt anchor out left under a big roof. Be mindful of rope drag, it's a long pitch.

Pitch two climbs a dirty awkward section through the roof then traverses right to a paper thin flake. Thin face moves through the crux lead to a mantle on a big knob, then knob climbing through the headwall to a two bolt anchor on a big ledge.

Pitch three climbs up and left to a big rock scar following a thin crack on the face. Eventually the crack arches out right and up past a few thin knobs on golden granite to the summit block. Traverse left under the block to the bolted anchor.

Starts at the left corner of the east-facing wall; go up 6 bolts to the top of the column and chain anchors (5.10a); safer to belay here if doing the more serious 3 bolts finish (5.12b)

Road Face is the first line of bolts as the trail from the parking lot meets Frenchies Dome. At the highest point of the ground around the Dome.

Inicio tipo boulder, el crux es de la segunda a la tercer banda, saliendo de este es puro tramite, las primeras 3 placas se proteje con mano derecha las demas con izquiera. No retirarce mucho de las placas.

Left of the large low roof withe Rain route, just underneath 30 degree corner half way up. Start at a small roof with an under-cling hold climb a steep face with large side-pull on the left and finger crack on the right to better holds. Cruse long moderate but steep and sustained face to chain anchors.

Arranque muy tranquilo, el crux esta entre la tercer y cuarta placa, la ruta va sobre una grieta. sliedo el cruz se hace escalada tipo diedro.

PARA ESTABLECER UN TOP ROPE, SE PUEDE HACER UN RAPEL, HAY QUE TENER CUIDADO PORQUE LA CUERDA SE PUEDE ATORAR.

UNA RUTA MUY BONITA, TIENE SLAB, GRIETA, REGLETAS, DIEDRO, ESTÁ MUY COMPLETA.

3 bolts. Climb up fairly big moves between good ledges, then work up some crimpy holds to the top. Don’t bail out right to maintain the difficulty.

Between Baby Cakes and Benvenidos. Go straight up to chains. Start on face with small side ramp for feet, then rounded flake grab with right hand. Up on face, then work left onto recessed face with small handholds above and right foothold on rounded edge. The move up from this is the crux. Face then starts rolling off. Ascend fun off width with little bushy tree at bottom. Climb rolls off again, then 5.8 to 5.9 face which soon rolls off, hence to chains.

esta adentrandose en la junglita del lado izquierdo es muy prominente

Ruta con desplome moderado y técnica, en su mayoría se compone de cazuelas y pockets muy buenos, cómoda y limpia. Longitud moderada pero exquisita para quien quiere aproximarse a los desplomes.

Great climbing on scary features lead to a commiting sequence high on the final arete.

Without the extension is 5.10b 18m with 6 bolts.

With the extension is 5.11 22m with 8 bolts.

Relais équipé

center route green holds

Route follows traverse of SW ridge feature and accompanying pinnacle and sub summits. Grade varies based on exact route up each tower/bypassing certain features, 5.9 is common throughout the line.

Comienza en el suelo con los boulders de la izquierda luego se lanza para conectar con calentamiento al a derecha y subirle un poco el apriete.

3 different variations v1 to v3, the farther right you go on the slab the harder the grade.

Dinámico de los agarres de abajo al agarrote alto. igual con muchas variantes para cambiarle el grado y practicar dinámicos.

En la zonita de la entrada, travesía para la izquierda, agarrando cualquiera de los miles de agarres, para calentar. Un poco más difícil que ir de izquierda a derecha. Tan difícil o fácil como quieras y puedas hacerlo.

En la zonita de la entrada, travesía para la derecha, agarrando cualquiera de los miles de agarres, para calentar. Tan difícil o fácil como quieras y puedas hacerlo.