Routes in North America for selected grade

Starts just right of the dry bush. Follows the tufa and small break trending left to an anchor just below the small roof.

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

One of the best line of the whole park.

*the key left mini-pinch broke on April 11th, 2022.. (rip)

Solía ser una variación de Desalmada, pero ahora cuenta con plaquetas independientes para el inicio. Aún así se comparten algunos agarres en el inicio. Es una vía muy bonita con un crux largo y aéreo.

Starts just where the road hits the wall on your way down. Same start as Bizzare Contacts and same finish too, but trends left arround the tuffas instead of right.Watch the ground fall at the 2nd and 4th bolts.

Hard bouldery route, short but worth the effort.

6 bolts more past 'The Sound of The Sound of the First Season'. Runout, steep, sustained all the way to the last bite. Can lower with an 80m or use First Season anchors as sub.

Shares the first few bolts with Trucutrulove, then continues on straight up. Original route was 5.12d, then a rest hold broke turning it into a 5.13a.

La más clásica ruta del la cueva, despolamada con agarres grandes y de recorrido que sigue el borde de la cueva, excelente dentro del grado. Crux al inicio y lo demás es de resistencia.

Hard moves off the ground to classic traversinv left on small pinches and crimps.Crosses H-Bomb arojnd the 4th bolt.Stay alive gor the surprise move at top .

See the full beta here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSMSN1fnzGo

SDS to the right on bad crimps and finishes in ''Fer Forgé''.

A classic. Loads of kneebars will tame the first three quarters, but then...

Grade has been fluctuating a lot, but word on the street is that with the improved beta (foot jam) it's around V7/V8, depending on reach. Without the foot jam the grade is more around V8/V9. Either way, enjoy this sick problem!

Midnight Lightning is a problem on the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4 of Yosemite National Park. It has been described as the world's most famous bouldering problem.The route had been easily identified by a chalk lightning bolt drawn by John Bachar in 1978 while attempting the problem with John Yablonski and Ron Kauk. In May 2013, the iconic chalk lightning bolt was scrubbed off the face of the boulder. The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later.

Amazing steep pockets and sloppers starting on the right side of the cave. Pull out of the left side of the cave to some technical climbing to anchors. Long and sustained.

Start by climbing the short but deep crack with jugs inside, once you leave this short crack continue right on the dihedral which will lead you on to some tufas. After the tufas make a few more hard moves to get to the slab section that trends right into the disappearing dihedral. Once you leave this dihedral you will be heads on to the final crux section.

Follows the crack through the dark grey slab. 8 bolts and 25m to first anchor.

La extensión de "El Camino del Chino". Hike camino de chino and check your fears at the door crimp and throw all the way to the anchors.Whippers galor! Run out but safe .

Same start as Cosmic Intelligence. First anchor same as Never on Friday or alternatively Blade Runner. The routes can be linked with an 80m rope. P1: 10 bolts, 24m P2: 9 bolts, 16m

steep & technical route with a ok-rest at bolt no. 9, then a hard & long boulder up to the chains (climb until the lip of the wall to clip easily the anker)

Follow the obvious seam up the center of the boulder. Beta video

https://youtu.be/CgLDde3xOrI

Same start as el Chi but trends left at the crux into Tension Sexual. Same anchors as tension sexual.

video here

https://youtu.be/cYOyGvPqq8g

Many claim this is the best 13b here, but it's also probably the hardest. Powerful horizontal moves.

Start far left, traverse low around the prow (jug rail is off) and finish up The Ramp.

Crawl under the roof to find a big triangular block. Start here and make a big move back to slopers at the lip and climb up onto the face with difficulty.

Starts with easy climbing on the white, chossy mound.

Sit start at the obvious bowl jug and make your way up and right through the overhang towards the finishing jug. Glen classic.

Considerada la segunda ruta más dura de pericos por su estilo bloquero

El encadene mas reciente en video

Escalador: Edgar aka "Bong" - Monkey Basic. (Encadene el 12/08/2020) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEVxklBXER4

Start in Master Commander, reach the horizontal crack and traverse into Russell Crowe.

Segundo largo de "Equinoccio" los bloques estan bien marcados primero el crux tecnico que es un v7 de pasos largos en regletas pequeñas seguido de un descanso y travesía para terminar con un v5 de slab muy picante antes de las cadenas.

Vía plaquera de mucha resistencia en agarres pequeños.

Originalmente graduada 5.13a pero se le han caído agarres a lo largo de los años por lo que actualmente el consenso es 5.13b

Direct Start

Starts in the corner with the nicely structured holes and heads out slightly left. First pitch 6 bolts.

Climb the large stalactites just right of the tunnel to the other cave to the lip of the cave. Resting on the large stalagmite makes the grade to 12d/13a. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou and Vaacanda.

For the crimp and knee-bar aficionados.

Left of Ashara. Start in compression crimps and go to the good left crimp to do techy and nice moves on slopers towards the right.

From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

Continue to anchors in the middle of the horizontal roof. Wild fun.

Shares the start with ABR but goes up right.

Start low traverse right, hard start after easier , up and right from centaur.

The middle line of the boulder. Strange start on good holds but a far left foot. Massive first move with a dificult exit. Grade to be confirmed! One hard move after v4 ish

Cuarta linea de bolts de izquierda a derecha, primera parte de la ruta facil, con una reunion muy comoda con repisa para practicar multilargos. La ruta continua recto de la reunion de la repisa por 6 bolts, luego hace un poco hacia la izquierda donde empieza lo bueno. Final de pelicula, agotador y terrorifico. Hay un clavo de titanio verde, pegado con sika a la pared, recuerdo y agradecimientos del armador, respetar por favor.

Climb easy to a horizontal break with powerful bouldery moves followed by a delicate finish

Center line of the cave.