Routes as trad in Oceania

Start at large vertical crack in the middle of lookout wall. Make way up slabby crack to large chockstone (12), Continue up crack as wall become vertical and more difficult to underclinging flake. Carefully make way around right of flake to shelf and 2 more meters to top out

Start on the block to the left of the huge jug. Grab some jugs out left and mantle some wild overhung terrain using the help of sidepulls and crimps. Try not to pull the whole cliff down on your way up.

Winter connies = velcro! Up FoS corner for a couple of metres then traverse hard right across hard wall (two bolts) and around arete onto mostly trad protected face. About 6 bolts + single set of cam to #4 and couple of long runners. First ascentists used two ropes to reduce rope drag.

Start just right of Mansion. Offwidthing and some thrutchy climbing. 2 number 6 camalots nice to have, FA done happily with 1, no 5s necessary. Up to anchors. Traverse ledge to meet Reactor anchors.

Start up bolts just right of Reactor in layback overlap. Follow crack on gear, trend left across slab to final bolt and up lo Reactor anchors.

Closed project.

Steep face climb to open book corner that slowly gets larger as you move up. Hardest moves at the bottom before the corner.

Climb the small corner to zig-zag crack on the blank face. Bottom section has since fallen off, may need investigating and cleaning. Great climb for the keen.

Up obvious cracked corner via hanging block on arête. Use bollards for anchors at the top.

Wait for a good weatherfine spell before heading into the chimney. Good pro and climbing but the start has a bit to be desired. Climb up to a secret belay ledge sshh don't tell. Aid out from under the chockstone and up via the crack. Small/ medium wires and medium cams. Either rap the route or walk over to the " Mantel Piece Theatre" rap chains.

Sharp finger crack on the true right side.

Gabara is a Kaiju that doesn't actually exist -except in the mind of a child, as the monstrous manifestation of his real-world bully. Heavy stuff, indeed.

A proud-looking left leaning seam crack with oodles of exposure, and very sporty steep cruxes. Starts on a small ledge above the main ledge (access by ascending a short fixed rope).

Bring a full rack 0.3-3, wires, and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75.

1. 30m (23) A hard start through the roof (feel free to build a cairn if you can't reach the first holds), then powerful moves past 3 bolts to gain the crack proper. This is followed by technical and varied gr21/22 crack/face climbing to a bolted belay below a huge roof.

2. 15m (23) Up to the big roof past 2 bolts, punch through it, then powerful moves to turn the lip. After this, moderate technical face climbing on gear leads to a good ledge and bolted belay. This pitch can easily be combined into the next one.

3. 10m (16) Up the face with spaced gear to ledge. Belay bolts at the back of the ledge.

Built from the ground up by a malevolent child.

A cliff splitting crack that passes through three roofs and some sporty moves. Three bolts keep things sane, but you'll still need a double rack in the finger to hand sizes. A few nuts and hexes can supplement as needed.

Can be climbed as a mega pitch with some serious drag, or split at a semi hanging belay after the difficulties and below the final roof if you want to see the second.

The route starts from the major ledge underneath an obvious crack in the low roof. Trad anchor in the crack and or stick clip the first bolt to avoid consequential falls from the opening moves.

1. 30m (21) Suck it up and commit to some powerful sporty moves out of the opening roof with two bolts and gear to the delicate thin crack (crux). Follow this up through two breaks to the shale break and final bolt. Pull the roof and over into a stance and semi-hanging belay.

2. 20m (14) Follow the widening crack up into a few chimney moves to escape the final roof (all gear). Follow the crack system as it becomes increasingly easy and chossy to a final large cave (belay possible) or continue to the rap anchors and belay from here.

Left Arete with steep first moves.

Up middle of slab - straight off the block. Good pro appears when it's needed.

Flakes up the middle right with a tricky start and finish.

Direct up the thin line on the RHS, reachy fingerlocking jugs.

On the left of Tangarine Slide, about 15m L of 'Boys That Grow Plump...' is a L slanting hand-crack. 1) 20m 23 Classic and technical jamming. When the main difficulties are over, step up R to grey wall with a final tricky move to the belay. 2) 15m 19. Step R off the 'large block', and climb up to flakes. Follow left trending cracks to ledge and abseil anchor*. 33m to ground. Note that there is currently only one anchor bolt, this will be soon fixed, or walk off is an alternative.

Wandery start leads to some outstanding and unique climbing on the arete left of Norseman. Two bolts and pre-placed gear.

A daunting lead up a beautiful grey slabby wall on perfect rock. Technically only grade 18 or 19 but there is no protection on the crux 8m run-out. This pitch climbs the best and boldest section of the old route Drifting (21). Start at the double ring belay at the top of the first pitch of Spillway. Up the juggy wall to skirt the far R side of the recessed ledge (the major flake/crack line above is Gigi's Climb). Drift R-wards and climb the easy shallow recessed flake. When it runs out, move up L-wards for a couple of metres to a short (200mm), but deep, finger-width crack. Load up with bomber pro and launch off up the superb wall above. You will eventually reach the Shining Path bolt on the arete. Continue as for the the Shining Path (up the slab, traverse R along the foot-traverse [Sluice] and up the short vertical crack to the belay rings below Shining Path's last pitch). Either continue as for the Shining Path (grade 19) or three rappels down (30m, 30m and 10m).

Up crack down on the R side of the slab (as for BFC, An Undeniable Truth), Step L to thin crack, then straight up the slab via 4 FH and some trad gear (small-med cams). Go through final roof 1m Left of chossy overhang - via a cool hidden pocket. Still quite runout despite the bolts, although much of the climbing is easier than TCBFC. Rap point is 36m exactly to the ground. Note, final FH is not quite the correct type, still works but will be replaced soon.

Climbs wild rose direct to the start of the roof seam. 0.75 cam protects the roof dyno. Bring a good spotter for the start!

Thrilling climbing. Power past two bolts to the break, then step left and pull through a series of commiting moves (#2 cam essential). Briefly recompose at the stance. Gain horizontal above and continue on technical edges just right of NAH's crack. Follow ramp to it's end then directly up to DRB anchor. 60m rope will just get you to the ground.

Route faces north. Good in cold temps. Rap chains are on a boulder close to edge, about 5 meters back left along large ledge. Abseil 35mtr to semihanging belay/rapchain in small overhang. Abseil another 25 mtr to next rapchains on face below large ledge, this requires a pendulum to the right. Abseil 35mtr to large ledge. Route starts in corner to right looking in. Bring a single rack up to #5 Camalot, doubles in #0.4 to #2, 12 short draws, four alpine draws. No boltplates.

1. 35mtr, 20. Up wide thrutchy crack, continue up corner, using left face when neccesary.

2. 30mtr, 24. Mostly a sport pitch. Step right from belay then sustained climbing past bolts. Traverse way left, passing a small corner into steep juggy terrain, eventually placing an assortment of cams and wires working up left side of feature that you abseiled off on way down. Large cams unneccesary on this pitch. Semihanging belay.

3. 35mtr, 21. Another opportunity to use #5 cam straight off belay, then up (reachy) to endless ironstone edges and cam breaks. Doubles in small/med sizes a must for this long pitch. Either finish relatively direct after final bolt (tree belay) or continue veering left to far left edge of face. (Dub)

Start ~5m right of ITOSE, at the first possible belay stance of the crag near a small tree. Slab moves are followed by easier terrain and a large flake just to the right. A couple of harder moves lead to a crack that looks better than it is. Up to a stance below the bulge. Once past the bulge run it out raversing left to the anchor of ITOS. Second to clean and rap. Tricky nuts comprise most of the gear on this one.

Consistently interesting climbing and a worthwhile addition to the wall. Up the leaning, awkward corner of Mums the Word. Step L, up the cracks, then pull the fingery arete (bolt) to reach the narrow ledge. Resist the temptation to pull up and stand on the ledge, instead step across R into the finishing crack of Speechless. Lower-off anchors to the R.

A good way to do the good bit of F Sharp from the ground. Start up Dirge for 8m, move left and up Low Note to the base of the diagonal, and follow this up L into the business of F Sharp. When it gets easy head R to the chains and lower off back to the ground. It's possible to clean your own gear (with admin), but much better to have someone second it.

It is possible to do a harder finish to Dirge by heading left before you get to the chains, traversing across the blank wall to join the final flake system of F Sharp.

Takes the crack in the middle of the wall, drifting a metre or so left past a bolt when the crack peters out and face holds thin, then back right to join the upper pitch of Not About Heroes. Good gear all the way, doubles of small & med cams may come in handy. Has a rap station, 28m back to the ground

Start as for Wackjob Warren but take more vertical right hand path, past rope slings and two bolts, finishing up and left at same belay tree as WW. A 1.2 metre sling over a bollard helps protect the crux.

Start 15m right of Kodak Moment, just left of the walk down path in the cave. High step off the ground onto the slab, and then follow ramp and chimney up and left passed a rope sling until you reach the flake. Stuff flake with a couple of cams, and then up passed bolt and another rope sling and head up and left until you reach the belay tree. Single rack of cams to size 2 enough.

Start as for Kodak moment, and then head right once your standing on top of 3m boulder, head to the back of the ledge and then up the corner crack, finishing at the tree.

5 metres left of City of Joy. Start off block, delicate moves left from undercut to a mantle and up thin layaway crack. 3 bolts and trad to DRB anchor.

Immaculately desperate corner crack with a powerful start. Begins from large shelf down low (climbers right). Up bouldery start and technical layback past bolt (using the slab on the left takes away a grade) continue up thin crack with technical feet and increasinly fleeting hands to the top. Plenty of bomber gear on solid rock. would strongly advise stick clipping the bolt.

From the start of the second pitch of Croissant veer right to a large square rock revealing a crack in the left side. Shares Croissant's anchors. Good range of black diamond cams "0.5" up to "5"

The leftward slanting ramp to the left of Emergent. Undoubtedly very similar to the climb near Shelob's tunnel in the Lord of the Rings. Up, up, up the leftwards ramp, then follow the weakness direct to the top.

Directly up the crack when you emerge from the chimney walkthrough 15m right of Seafood Tapas and 10m left of Prawn Cracker. Up the crack, trend to the left of a cave then back right and up the face to finish.

The obvious crack left (north) of Prawn Wall. Romp on up the right trending crack with lots of good jams and holds. Pass the tree and anchor from the double bolts at the top of Prawn Wall.

Starts 2m left of The Lady with the Handbag. This route climbs under the tree rather than over it. Climb up on some delicate holds with no pro for the first 5 meters or so (crux) before reaching some nicely featured rock with better holds. Duck under the tree (sling the tree if you dare!), then continue up much more easily following the obvious groove/crack which provides mostly adequate gear placements. A few meters before reaching the overhangs, step right to traverse several meters across to the bolted anchors of Barracuda.

From the start of Octopus's Garden/Sealab 2020 wander diagonally up R. Take the first vertical line, a pleasant short offwidth to jugs.

Marked ECM. Corner Crack. Top out to lower off.

Rad Trad on Amazing rock. Start is marked 31E.

Start 3m right of SeaLab 2020 by downclimbing to the diagonal crack rising up to the right. Easily up the crack crossing a drop in the ocean. Continue up the rising crack passing a nice looking slab and continue moving right until a cave appears. Enter the cave then exit through an eliptical hole to gain the top of the nice looking slab. Exit right to belay.

Another way to get up on the ledge. Plenty of holds on either sides. Medium to big cams. Take care when passing the chockstone. Anchor-in by slinging the boulder on the left or use the cracks.

A lovely climb with the crux in the first 2 moves. Start as for the nips are getting smaller. Up to the horizontal at about 2.5m for good cam placement. Now step left to arete and straight up. Continue up arete to an open book corner. Place good runner in the corner and step left onto arete. Continue up arete to the top.

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.

Climb crack left of landmark trench and up nose of arete.

Climb the juggy crack to ledge, continue straight up past small cam slot and through tricky gritty sloping mantle. Continue up to ledge for belay. Stepping left and climbing the middle of the slab is about grade 15, but run out.

Lovely crack with a bit of a grovel down low. Great gear, comfortable with a BD5, a little run out with only a BD4 and run out with only some BD3s. Needs a brush but can be led as is.

Shares same start as Cellophane Heroes, but after intial crack continue straight up the thin crack past 2 RB to a DBB.

Quality climbing on good rock to DBB

Follow undercling trending right to join Peppermint

climb crack to ledge right of sleepwalker. Join onto sleepwalker and climb to anchor.

Excellent endurance link up of the crux start of purple haze and the pink rabbits head wall. Head right at obvious horizontal and up to hand traverse pillar into PR at second ring on head wall. Requires a bit of trad (.5-2 camelots) but a couple of bolts will make it more popular.

A Technical corner to a roof (protected by bolt)

Some consider this a route that isn't worth recording; others consider it to be better than either of the two original routes that it links!

It is easier than either of the original (sandbagged) lines - maybe that accounts for its popularity.

Start up Father O to its second bolt, then traverse delicately left to join Sirocco's second bolt. Finish up Sirocco.

As for TYOLD when you get to the dispatched traverse instead of following that bast up through more steepness. (Closed project)

Finger crack 15m r of Sega, shares anchor with ROC.

A singular brain cell. Classic R facing dihedral. Starts from the ledge and goes direct up brilliant finger and hand jams, now meticulously scrubbed for your consumption! Worth bringing in a single rack of cams and some wires for. Belay/ lower from Beefeater anchor or top rope it after.

You'd have to be. In the cool cave R of Monosynaptic is a large suspect broken flake. Climb the R side beginning at an undercling before traversing left to the other side, horizontal at feet. Continue up to the big ledge to belay off the flat boulder. Walk to FPA anchors to descend.

Crack addiction. Follow the major splitter to the convenient anchor above WtB. Shuffle some cams not larger than a #4.

Crack between the two sport routes to 10am anchor. Fiddly.

The crack between the two ring bolted routes, finishing at SG101 anchor.

And the Lord said thou shalt install only the finest grade of steel. Starts off the top of the block.

Climb up and L, via path of least resistance, left side of the shrub. Topping out above Cape Crusader DBB. Bring plently of slings

Sharing the first bolt with curiously sheepish and then traversing the finger crack step up onto easy ground that leads to a cruisy corner crack until two bolt anchor at top

Start up Mediterranean Sundance Direct Start, then through the incipient seam midway between M.S and AaA. A nest of little cams can protect the crux finish

start a few metres right of the original (a metre or two right of the arete). Straight up to join the original line.

Crack just right of Totally Testicular. At the top traverse left to DRB.

Access route from ground level to ledges under the Vass-Judge. Can scramble up to Tootsies from the top of the first pitch

Slab and face that straightens out and extends the original Tootsies

A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off.

Starting at the same spot as The Henryk Manoeuvre (without clipping the bolt) head straight up and over the rooflet past big hole. Follow your nose and finish up crack to the right of THM. Top out or step across to anchors.

There’s good gear in decent rock the whole way, but it’s not always easy to find in a sea of questionable rock. Not a beginner lead.

Start up "Magical Faraway Tree" then at the 5th bolt branch right with good gear. To a bolt up higher. Either down climb to the bolted belay or quest on up.

Stick clip high first bolt. A few thugy moves brings you to a sloppey ledge. Mantel then head left & up on good gear.

Some choice quotes from the first ascentionist: "Climbed a choss first pitch from the ground (kayak access) ...wouldn’t recommend ...some of the worst rock imaginable... it's quite impressive how bad some of the sea cliff Dolerite can be. It looks compact and then just sheds scales."

Despite the sage words, the kayak approach may mean the pitch is worth repeating. Take a triple rack including big gear (#3 & #4) if you want it to be a bit more pleasant.

Awkward then pleasant hand jamming up the groove crack to a lower-off.

The crack/groove just right of the flake, traversing left to the anchor at the top.

It's definitely cake! Take the committing line through the left of the enormous roof to the face crack and face to the top. For now rap off a tree near the top. Anchors and a bolt will be installed at some point - somewhat spicy (but safe) topout until this happens.

Micro cams (.1 and .2) and a small (yellow) offset nut or cam recommended.

Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top.

A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off.

Brilliant, sustained climbing up the attractive crack in the centre of the buttress. As good as it looks. Lower-off.

The appealing hand crack. Lower-off.

Steep jamming with a nice bulge a half height. Looks 3 grades harder and is an absolute delight. Take a #4. Lower-off.

The striking flake / off-width. Jam, layback and struggle up the prominent line to a lower-off. Take a couple #4 and #5 cams. Quite unique, and not bad for this sort of thing. Lower-off.

Crack left of The Arête.

First crack right of The Arête, well protected. Crack at 3/4 height. ‘A good first lead’ said the original notes.

As for Hidden Secrets but take the easier start of Je Suis un Legend instead of the tricky boulder.

At the vertex of the parabola formed by the base of the buttress, midway between curves A and N, bisect these 2 curves to the apex. (Hard start, wide crack, swing left onto the face then straight up.)

Start 2m left of Narcissus and climb the bulging arete and slabby wall above straight up.

Left arete of the vertical wall just north of P.B and J

Start halfway between Strike and Silver Hands. Straight up through bulges. Finish at Strike anchor.

Bottom is protected by either boulder pads or the first bolt of Silver Hands. Top protected with cams.

Mantle then follow the offwidth. Marked 'OS'. Teacup jams optional. Original name "Feeling Seedy New Years Day"