Routes in Oceania for selected grade

The promise of three RURPs in a row makes this one for budding big-wallers. Takes thin cracks in the left wall of impressive, smooth 30 metre corner 35 metres right of 'Self Immolation'.

1. 40m (M7) Cracks, then diagonally across overhang and up 7 metres to belay.

2. 10m Up to tree.

3. 37m Corner above (1 aid) to foot of chimney.

4. 18m Chimney to overhang. Left and up.

For historical purposes. The route to the right of "The Twisted Staircase". Sit-start and head directly up face/rounded arete. Would probably climb okay if not for loose edges. Be careful what you pull on.

Climbs the centre of the very high slab. Finishes once your on the ledge.

Easy classic. Climb the middle of the face of crazy paving.

Climb the Arete. Stand start.

Sit start on the same holds as Over The Moon. Move left, then straight up to top out.

Sit Start under the flake. Go straight up. Interesting climb.

Stand Start in the Offwidth Crack and work your way up in the crack to a slopey top out. All holds within reach are in, but the more you are jamming, the more fun you are having.

The next crack to the right of SYL.

The R-most crack, finishing in the notch.

Easy and obvious crack which curves to the left, to committing top out. Can also be done as a sit start.

This is on a small wall up left of the main cliff. The wall 4m left of a diagonal weakness and large tree on the left side of the face. Climb above the bulge then finish up the cracks on the left.

Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks.

Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall.

At the left end of the face there is a corner. Climb this then move right and finish up some jugs.

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

The RH crack.

Link up of 'Rush' and 'Was It Worth It?'

Nice positions. From foot of big, R.facing corner on R side of pillar, go up and L to arête. Up cracks in this.

Dramatic finish. From foot of Punt Road, go up big, R.facing corner for 6 m. L in horizontal break to crack. Up, finishing steeply.

Start 2m right of Capitol Gains. At the second FH move right to finish up the juggy rib. Lower offs.

Between the two main lines there is a crack with a steep start.

The short corner at the left end of the outcrop has an unexpectedly tricky finish.

Another nice climb. 1.3m R of I.M below the undercut ledge. Place some good micro's above the mantle before doing it. Straight up over the mantle passing good wires, more micro's and a fixed hanger.

Stays independent. 1.5m R of U.G. (immediately R of the undercut ledge). Straight up past 2 low bolts with Micros for the rest.

Up to and up steep R.facing flake starting 1m R of Leif. Finish straight up.

Undercut, gung-ho start from beside old fairy martins’ nests (landmark) 10m R of DD, then face above, moving very slightly R. The large starting holds are decidedly suspect.

Thin crack with R leading flake heading out of it. Climb the thin crack.

Just right of Gimme de Gas. Up past three bolts moving right to the rings above Ill Nome della Rosa. A medium wire can also be used to protect the moves above the second bolt if required.

10m right of Mother's Day is a short left facing corner crack. Jam corner to big ledge. Move right a few metres. Pull up the blank slab into the corner (a hard move for short people). Follow the corner system up right to a good ledge with lower offs.

Starts 2m right of “Out of Lockdown”. Up arete of block and up to ledge. From ledge, up the main face to top.

Project. No bolts please.

Starts 5m right of “Out of Lockdown” corner. Up the cleaner streak in the moss to ledge at around 5m. Can belay here or continue up in one pitch. Up face right of “Out of Lockdown” and finishing at the anchor. DBB

The bolted arete right of Earth Calling to chains.

Major diagonal line finishing above large tree. Up crack 3m R of BB and immediately L of recessed yellow wall at R end of cliff. Line to tree. Up

5m R of Samosa, a short L facing corner crack starting above a bulge. Up to and up the corner. The bulge below the corner has seen some rockfall recently making the route unstable and best avoided.

Just R of Papadum. Up shallow corner on the R wall of the RH chimney exiting R into steep seam at the top.

3m R of Papadum chimney is a shallow L facing groove. Up to and up groove. Finish up wall past FH.

Start as for Kukri. A line leading to a deep hand jam crack in a shallow R facing groove. Approach upper crack from the L to avoid large possibly detached blocks. Awkward move to get into jam crack.

Around R of MC. 1m R of the arête are some protruding holds. Up holds and slightly R to finish up middle of headwall. Quite good short route.

The line 3m R of Mysore

8m R of Palak Paneer and 2m R of the chimney crack of Delhi Belly is a lovely clean crack. Up this and short wall above.

2m R of Mughlay, a couple of nice face moves past 2FH. 18/5/2015

Ledges and ramp tending up rt from SIJ then up.

Body crack 30mts rt of HYD and on the next band of rock up the hill.

Up crack 2m R of NW [L] arete of lower cliff. Up flake crack on R and arete above. Scabby rock.

The thin crack and left arete of the west face (3m left of Earth Time). Up.

Thin crack up centre of west face. Up initial right facing corner. Step left at first overlap and then straight up.

Thin crack on right of west face (About 3-4m right of Earth Time). Start from block down right of crack. Pull up and over bulge and then follow thin crack to top.

The next route is to the right of right arete ie on south wall. Start from top of boulder in cool gully - up discontinuous flakes on south face.

The most obvious line on the cliff and in fact the first route done. At right hand end of main cliff is a vertical crack that goes straight up to a perched block at the top of the cliff. Up.

Wanders about a bit. Start 10m left of Silent Screen at a left leaning ramp. Up this and hence to ledge. Step 3m left and then up to a large obvious flake. Up the wall just right of flake and then across left of the crack directly above the flake.

Start 15m left of the lowest point on the wall (ie the highest section of cliff), near the start of a small ledge just left of a thin right leaning seam. Directly up the wall on pockets.

Start at the corners 6mts left of the SW arete below a small tree. Follow the main central recessed line to sketchy exit on terrible rock, dead shrubs and moss.

More awkwardness. This is the dirty corner 1mt left of GW.

Starts at the left facing corner 20mts uphill from Cold etc. Corner then left into wide crack then face above.

The flake crack/corner just R of CP.

Major crack in middle of face.

Towards the RH side of the main face are two lines. THe LH one.

Line in South face just R of arete, rather loose and unpleasant. Crack to steep seam, step L around arete and up easily. [Seam has been top roped direct at about 21]

RH line, finishing up O#9

Up R on L facing flakes on L side of outcrop. From ledge go up tricky little wall then easily up ramp.

The L hand buttress is split by a clean crack with a dead tree sticking out of it.

Crack in right wall of corner 2m right of Black Rock. Follow hollow flakes up and left to join that route.

At right end of the right wall is prominent buttress. Corner on its right side, entered from right.

Rising traverse on flakes at right end.

Ramp 2m left of 'Lounge-about', then right side of vertical flake and wall.

A bit artificial. Thin crack just left of Token Male is climbed without using corner on left.

Take a 5" tube. Hand-crack that becomes an off-width.

Good climbing throughout.

1. 20m (crux) From cairn below left side of main face, climb easily up to clean, left-facing corner starting above roof. Up corner to next roof. Step right and go up to ledge.

2. 25m (Shift belay up right to foot of prominent hand-crack.) Crack. (Roped scramble right up ridge to get off.)

A gully leads up right below right side of main face. Below this gully is another face (which gets bigger the further right you go) towards left side of which is a pair of cairned, thin cracks/seams.

On arete left of Another Roadside Attraction, and right of Glory Box, starting up the finger crack.

Lovely slab and face climbing on good rock taking a steadily left drifting line. 10m right of Pale Rider. Up the slab past 3FH to a ledge [grade 15 to here with lower off rings on right]. Up left off the ledge past a FH and onto ramp [for the nervous a #2 or #3 cam can be used to protect the move off of the ledge]. Straight up past 2 more FH to the chains on Pale Rider.

The second pitch was climbed years ago and starts from an inaccessible ledge half way up the cliff. With an independent start and abseil chains to get off it is now a fun middle grade outing up a prominent pinnacle. 40m right of Pale Rider [staying below the lower tier] is a gully. From 5m up the gully a shallow flake corner takes off on the right wall.

1. 12m 12. Up the little flake corner to a ledge. Move right to take the second steep crack through the bulge.

2. 25m 15. Up to the steep left leading crack on the wall behind. Up this to the slab. Up the slab then traverse right to reach an exposed little corner on the front of the pinnacle. Up this to the top. Abseil chains on top, 40m abseil to ground. [If you only have 1 rope it is a 20m abseil to the large ledge then 20m off trees to the ground.]

Start as for Feed the Chooks.

1. 11m 11. Up as for Feed the Chooks to the first ledge. Take the first steep crack through the bulge to the large ledge.

2. 27m 15. Up the major steep crack on the face for about 5m. Traverse left on a sloping ledge around the arête. Up the flakes and cracks on the shoulder of the pinnacle to the slab. Up this to belay below the steep headwall.

3. 10m 10. Traverse out right to reach the exposed little corner. Up to the abseil chains [this last section is as for Feed the Chooks]. Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong [alts] 23/10/2016

From the gully on the right hand side of the FtC pinnacle. The crack and groove up the pinnacle

Near the top of the gully to the right of the Feed the Chooks pinnacle. Best approached from above. Climb the crack on the right hand side of the gully, opposite Feed the Chooks Some More.