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Nodes in Cable Way Crags

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Cable Way Crags

The Cable Way crags offer great variety in climbing only a short drive from Gauteng. The high escarpment setting makes this climbing crag unique and can be accessed on foot or by Cable car.

Casterly Rock

The "Casterly Rock" area refers to the top tier crags, just right of the Cable Way. This band of tall rock includes "Need For Speed", "Dust Bowl" and "Big Sky" areas.

Casterly Rock
Dust Bowl

Some of the original routes in the area. Great variety of grades and length of climbing. Full shade all day in Winter. "Dust Bowl" includes a few routes at ground level and a few at pitch 2 on the left of the incut big scoop accessed by climbing up "Bottom slab to stance). "Need For Speed" are the routes on the right of the big scoop incut, accessed by climbing up "Bottom slab to stance).

Casterly Rock Dust Bowl
10 BOTTOM SLAB TO STANCE

FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE SCOOP

20 IT ALL STARTED WITH ADK

RIGHT HAND FROM OVERHANG ONTO ERET

18 SNIVEL

OBVIOUSE BREAK ONTO LEFT FACING SLAB

21 FLAT SPIN

UP TO ROUGH BREAK RIGHT THROUGH OVERHANG

22 WERE's MY RAG

FROM STANCE 3M LEFT OF FLAT SPIN

19 DUSTY

BOTTOM OF SCOOP START IN CORNER UP RIGHT FACING BULGING FACE

20 IN TANDEM

START 4M LEFT OF DUSTY UP OBVIOUS BLOCK

15 VALLEY RELEASE

START 4M RIGHT AND BELOW IN TANDEM

Casterly Rock
Need For Speed

The "Dust Bowl" and “Need for speed" is the crag with the big scoop / Cut back and "Need for speed" is the Cut back with Slab to the Right (East) of this. Some of the original routes in the area. Great variety of grades and length of climbing. Full shade all day in Winter. "Dust Bowl" includes a few routes at ground level and a few at pitch 2 on the left of the incut big scoop accessed by climbing up "Bottom slab to stance). "Need For Speed" are the routes on the right of the big scoop incut, accessed by climbing up "Bottom slab to stance).

Casterly Rock Need For Speed
10 WING OVER

FROM THE CORNER STRAIGHT UP THE SLABS

17 SLOW RIDE

FROM MID STANCE IN THE CORNER UP RIGHT HAND FACING CORNER MOVING OUT ONTO FACE.

21 TURN RIGHT DICK HEAD

FROM MID STANCE ON THE RIGHT FACING SLAB UP THE ARETE AND INTO THE CRACK SYSTEM TO TOP

10 Commercial Abseil anchors

About 250m along the top ridge, along an easy path you will find an abseil point above the big slab. A fixed 60m rope is required, a single rope threaded at midpoint will be too short.

Casterly Rock
Big Sky

Further East of "Dust Bowl" and "Need For Speed" you will find another big recess, the "Big Sky" climbs start from the recess and continue right to the grassy slab.

Casterly Rock Big Sky
Abseil point

200m right of the commercial abseil point, follow the path down a a gully to abseil chains. A 80m rope threaded at midpoint will get you to the bottom if you want to retrieve your rope. Alternatively a fixed shorter rope. Beware of climbers below.

18 Battle of the Bastards

The route in the recess on the left face before the chossy corner and the grey slab. Starts on the obvious clean break and goes straight up the middle face to the chains.

18 Chaos isn’t a pit; Chaos is a ladder

The first route on the grey face about 20m further right of Battle of the Bastards. Start up the featured arete and then on to the clean face. Finishes on chains.

16 Kalisi Assist

The route at the end of the grey face. Start on the ofset rock to clip the first draw, continue up straight and then around the nose to the perma draws.

22 Cliff Launch

On the right of the grey face is a short face with a 1m overhang. Start left and move right from undercut and onto slab. Chains at top.

12 Slope Launch

Climb up the blunt arête just to the left of a deep crack. Shares chains with ramp launch.

14 Ramp Launch

Climb up the nose just right of the deep crack, stepping in from the left. Shared chains with Slope Launch

19 To Xavier

Start 10m up and to the right of Ramp Launch in the next recess. Climb up the long and steep face to the chains.

17 Too thin to ride

Climb up the corner just right of To Xavier and move onto the face highrer up to the chains.

21 The flayed man

Continue past Too thin to ride to the 3rd recess.Climb the obvious crack running right of the left facing wall. Existing route but not in original route guide. Unknown bolter or original name, excellent climb.

22 Three-Eyed Raven

In the corner, right of The flayed man. Start up the slope after the tree to the chains after the roof.

Kings Landing

The obvious large face in the lower rock band directly below the cable way line. 60 metre rope required with good 30 metre routes. Full shade all day in winter, early early morning and late afternoon shade in peak summer. Hot in summer, take extra water with you.

Kings Landing
16 Sneaky Incest

Route to the far left of the crag, up the crag path and on the side of the main crag. Stay right of the bolts to the main ledge. Climb right of the bolts on the top face section. Perma-draws at top.

18 The First Men

The left most route on the bottom slab of the main face. Follow the bolts up straight and clip the perma-draws on the face. 60m rope required.

17 Balerion The Great

Start as per Balerion The Black Dread. After the slab as you climb onto the main head wall, follow the bolts right to the perma-draws. 60m rope required.

20 Balerion The Black Dread

Start as per Balerion The Great. After the slab as you climb onto the main head wall, follow the bolts left to the perma-draws. 60m rope required.

10 The Imp

Climb the slab to the shared top anchors of The Wildling. Perma-draws at top.

11 The Wildling

Shares top anchors with The Imp. Perma-draws at top.

9 Drogons Back

Start right of the obvious arete in the middle of the main wall and climb the arete rock ridge to the anchors. Perma-draws as top anchors.

14 I Drink

Start right of the obvious arete in the crack line. Follow the crack to the perma-draw anchors. 2nd pitch extension coming soon.

23 Weirwood I go

Follow the bolts right of I drink, traversing slightly left on the slab to the large tree before the main head wall. Use the tree to get on to the headwall and follow the bolts left. Recommended to extend draws 6. Perma-draws as top anchors. 60m rope required.

20 Arya using underclings

Climb up the slab and right of the large tree before the headwall. Continue to follow the bolts along the crack system to the top perma-draw anchors.

17 Faith of the 7

Start on the slab left of Blood of Dragon, following the bolts straight up onto the main head wall and to the top perma-draw anchors. 60m rope required.

22 Blood of Dragon

Start on the slab and follow the bolts on the main head wall traversing slightly right through the small roof crack system and on to the top face . Perma-draw top anchors. 60m rope required.

19 Hold the door for Hodor

The right most route on the main crag. Follow the bolts on the slap, traversing right to the obvious crack system and on to the top perma-draw anchors. 60m rope required.

The Red Keep

The large obvious slab right of Kings Landing and below the Casterly Rock section. This area includes "Dragonstone" and "Ten up" crags.

The Red Keep
Dragonstone

A great big slab with long and easy routes. Lots of potential for more routes.

The Red Keep Dragonstone
14 Tits and Whine

The route up the middle of the slab, left of Take off. Minimum 70m rope required. Climb the slab straight up, following the bolts to the chains.

14 Take Off

The right hand route on the main slab. The chains of Take Off are also the abseil point. Please be careful of climbers below if abseiling in.

The Red Keep
Ten Up

Ten Up is the prominent slab visible from the bottom car park directly east of "Kings Landing". Climbing routes are on the slab and below that on some pillars. This crag gets morning sun in Winter and all day sun in Summer.

Permits and access through the Iron Throne Trail Park: at reception or online https://www.webtickets.co.za/v2/Event.aspx?itemid=1515945357

The Red Keep Ten Up
18 Drawn with the Weirwood

The route is further right past "Sat", continue past the large fig tree. Start right of the fig tree and climb up the arête and on to the face. This route can also be accessed by the abseil chains on top of the pinnacle. Route has Perma-draws.

20 Sat

On the south face of the prominent pinnacle below the slab. Access on the path to the left or abseil chains on the top of the pinnacle.

Climb the obvious arête on the left front of the pinnacle before the large fig tree.

17 In the Cruv

4M left of Sat, follow the obvious crack to the shared chains of Asymetric.

17 Asymetric

Start in the obvious corner left of In the Cruv, tending right. Shared chains with In the Cruv.

23 Mac Twist

Not bolted yet, can be top roped off the chains of Deep Stall. 1m left of Asymetric, follow the crack in the corner and up the face.

21 Deep Stall

On the arête, 3m from Asymetric. Climb up the obvious arête, following the bolts to the chains on top.

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