Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Pretty innocuous route with the hardest move right at the start.

An excellent layback crack climb with good protection. Start in the big corner, on top of the blocks to the right of Cain. Follow the crack in the corner to the top.

Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains.

Variation (12): Start around the corner to avoid the crux and join the rest of the route from the 2nd bolt.

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on 'Face in the Trough'

Starts 2m left of the large recess. Moves left of the bulge above.

Start up the excellent left-facing corner just right of the whitish face. The corner flattens out higher up.

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at 'The Creche'.

Climbs the face to the right of the nose. There are some great incuts on this one. Go slightly right to lower-offs overlooking the large recess.

The climb follows the obvious chimney/corner to the left of the overhanging buttress.

Crouch start on good jug. Follow jugs on and slightly right of arête. TO.

Start below the boltline through a shallow scoop about 1.5m left of the prominent red corner. Climb to lower-offs above.

Start 1m right of the large recess and climb REDISTRIBUTION’s crack all the way from the ground using the same bolts.

Go right after the second bolt on CATWALK to lower-offs on the right.

Climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge. Best to clean on top rope since the route runs diagonally left.

This is the line of bolts to the left of Jameson Raid. For a 14 it will make you think, but the holds are there.

Start inside a straddle width chimney 20m right of the obvious 'The Huffing Warthog' crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face going slightly left.

Starts just above the chain scramble: Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt.

This route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.

Takes the pretty open book 3m to the right of Fully. Short and cute.

Follows the arete of the crag - climbing the thin (width, not holds) face between 'front' & 'back' Steeple. Adventurous.

Climbs up a series of small ledges a few meters right of SERIOUSLY NOW.

Right of the aboveS

Sit-start with large flat hold and climb straight up.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [11] 20m

   Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. Climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the 'shaley crack' on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the 'Soup Plate'.

A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the cliff.

Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

Climbs the arete on the right end of the face

The next two lines are about 120m further North of the previous two routes. You can walk or scramble around the base of the cliffs where you will see the obvious wall (with bolts), or you can abseil in from the top. Please do not destroy the succulents on the route. It is easily climbed in its current state.

Route to the left of On Commando. Nice climbing for the grade, restrained bolting keeps it interesting.

Start right of the obvious arete in the crack line. Follow the crack to the perma-draw anchors. 2nd pitch extension coming soon.

Sit-start with good hold and climb straight up

Video

A pleasant route. Well protected on good rock. Start at the base of a shallow recess. The word "Pendulum" is painted on the rock.

1. Pull up to a small ledge. Climb up past a peg and then left across the recess and up to a ledge. Climb the open book to a stance out on the left.

2. Reverse the move onto the stance and traverse across the smooth face on the right. Continue along an obvious rail to a large flake. Traverse past this to a dead tree and climb directly up to a block. Exit easily above this.

Starts two meters left of rocky and joins 'Clockwork Orange' after 2nd bolt.

Sit-start and climb the arête.

Follow the approach route following the base of the wall until reach a small cave with a small metal plate sign. From there keep going up in a vague path through the bushes until reach a wall with 3 big cracks on it. The one to the right is Millions. the small one with a few grassy bushes growing out of it is Silloette crack (the middle one does not look good for climbing). This is a good route full of protection and nice and easy moves.

1. Climb the small crack all the way up and smear up after the crack starts to turn back down. Build your anchor at some big blocks at the top.

Climbs the chimney just right of 'After Thoughts' corner. A grovel.

Standing Start. Both hands on large side-pull flake. Climb straight up to small ledge, then move left to top out using the inverted corner.

Climb the arete to top out.

This is a Monteseel classic. It is fairly sustained, but is well protected. The climb takes the corner capped by a roof. Climb the crack in the corner from the ledge to just under a bulge. Bypass this by traversing left onto the face and then up to exit right under the roof.

Take a rucksack for the lead rope. IYWITSD. This route is protected by ringbolts, starting from 2, just above and downstream of the following 2 routes. If you deviate a metre left at the crux, the grade goes down to 11/12 - still fun, though.

Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.

Climb the arch from the left.

Climb the large crack.

Sit-start and climb up diagonally right

Sit-start with the rail and climb up on good holds.

Sit-start and climb up left.

Video

Sit-start under the small roof and climb up.

Sit-start and climb the ar̻te.

Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face.

The climb is 50m downstream of the Cederberg/Tonquani junction and 15m downstream of Hotplate. A large (9x9m) square free-standing buttress, mentioned in pitch 2, can be seen from the kloof floor. Scramble up a gully, about 20m left of square free-standing buttress, for 10m and walk right along ledge to a corner.

1. [13] 28m

   Start in corner and climb up. Continue right and up on sloping rock at top of pitch to a corner.

2. [14] 30m

   Climb in corner and on upstream face of free standing buttress. At the top of the buttress, step across to the left onto face and climb face to a very large ledge.

3. [14] 30m

   From the ledge a short (9m) 90° open book with a small shrub at the bottom is visible at the top of the rock face. Start in corner between face and a free-standing rock pillar on the right. Continue up to shrub and climb the open book at the top.

"A chickenshit mass ascent"

This route is on the same buttress immediately downstream of 'Right Corner Overhang'. It commences at the foot of a recess which slopes up from right to left.

1. 23m 14 Ascend the recess to a point immediately beneath large overhang. Traverse 6m right beneath the overhang to eye hole stance at the top of pitch 1 of 'Right Corner Overhang'. The difficulty arises in making the final move onto the stance.

2. 11m 13 Ascend the steep shallow crack slightly to left of eye-hole until forced to left by overhang onto an exposed grey slab. Ascend the grey slab near its left (outer) edge to easy rock.

3. 15m 5 Continue directly up to grassy ledge with large stamvrug tree.

1. Fun first pitch straight up to under the huge roof. Nice jugs, good gear and exposure... Just a fun climb. The finish of the first pitch is located under the roof in a right angle corner with good gear and a solid ledge.

2. The second pitch is a traverse out right with HUGE exposure. This is a rather long pitch which bends around a corner making communication difficult. There is relatively good gear but what makes the pitch hard is the exposure. If the wind is strong you might battle with balance. This pitch can be done in two if you stop right before climber and belayer loose sight of each other in a small cave. This is not recommended but is always an option. The second pitch is supposed to end on a rather big ledge with a small tree growing out of it. There is plenty of space to sit and rest before finishing the climb. There is a great view from here.

3. The last pitch heads straight up to the top and can also be done in two pitches however that shouldn't be needed to be done. You should come out under some trees but don't stress too much if you are slightly off route.

It is recommended that you take someone who has climbed this before as it is extremely difficult to locate both the decent anchors as well as the start of the climb.

Climb the obvious jugs up the middle of the face

Sit-start with good edge under roof and climb up.

Sit-start and climb the juggy arete.

On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack; if you are thin enough climb it!

An interesting move pulling around the roof. Starts in the recess to the left of the Republican start. Climb straight up the recess to under the roof. Pull up and sidestep to the right to bypass the roof. The original route followed the bushy recess above, but it is more worthwhile to finish as for Republic Direct on the edge of the face to the right.

Towards the right hand side of the ledge there is a big dihedral with a narrow, orange face on the left. This face can be clearly seen from the top of Hot Line. The letters 'SJ' were painted in yellow at the start but it currently looks like 'ST'. Climb straight up to reach a ledge below the start of an obvious fist jam crack. Climb the crack and move to the right near the top. This is hard for a 14 unless you can jam well - a variation more in keeping with the grade is given below.

Variation: Climb up to the ledge below the start of the crack. Move left and climb the corner for a couple of metres until it is possible to move out right on a good foot rail to gain the crack line about halfway up. Continue up the crack moving slightly to the right near the top. Short, but interesting.

Classic.

Previously a trad route.

3m right of 'Frequent Flyer' on the same face.

Standing start. Climb up the center of the slab starting from the dent in the rock.

The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains.

This route could be done in 3 short pitches if starting from the ground. Climbs the right hand pillar; finishing up a brown ramp at the top.

Start around the arête from VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM below a roof 5m up. Stem the recess, move left through the break, and then climb the pleasant face above to chains.

In the descent gully on left. Starts from the centre of the shelf and follows bolts direct to the top.

Sit-start and climb the ar̻te.

Near the centre of the slab there is a large pocket, trivially up to this and then a tricky move through the bulge.

Bolts have been removed, route is unmaintained

Left-most bolted line.

Climb the centre of the face.

2nd bolt-line from the crack, left of the U-bolts up the left-side of the arête.

Might be Inspektor Bliksem Neer?

The route was named because it was high and dirty, but was "wiped clean" to produce a very pleasant route which ought to be a classic. Either abseil onto, or climb up a short steep face to the big ledge about thirteen metres to the right of the Toe Jam corner and to the left of the large square recess taken by New Rope.

Climb the face to an overlap. Pull through this and continue up a short face on the left. Move into the obvious recess and climb this to the top.