Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Start on the ramp below the left hand ar6te of the Main Wall. Climb the arête, exiting on the left higher up to finish on great jugs.

The climb starts at the boulder near the lower end of the wade pool shortly above the main waterfall (between NEW ERA CRACK and ROOF OF ALL EVILS).

1. 30m 17 Start up the thin crack and make an awkward move up left. Continue diagonally up left to below a small overhang. Move with difficulty up the crack to the left of the overhang to a prominent chimney which is climbed to easier, vegetated rock above. Continue up and right to a stance on a ledge below a steep face with some roots down it.

2. 10m 19 Walk to the right along the ledge past the first recess to a steep V-groove going up from its right hand end. Climb this using a combination of layback and jamming moves to a good ledge above.

3. 35m 15 Step left around the corner and climb up past a large precarious block to a point just right of a scruffy recess. Climb the right hand face to the overhang and then step right on to the arete. Continue up to the top.

Note: The name refers to the attempt to climb up and right from the second stance. After two delicate moves right holding on to micronuts (first one was left in place) followed by a hand swing on to a small ledge in the middle of the exposed face, the leader was so intimidated by the steep hold-less rock above that he abandoned the attempt without anymore ado.

The route takes an impressive line up the steep buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool and finishes up the slanting chimney crack which can be seen from 'Frog Gully' . Start 18m downstream of the swimming pool below a tree-filled corner immediately left of 'Cedarberg Traverse' buttress.

1. [15] 25m

   Ascend the corner to trees in a recess (6m) and continue up to a large ledge and belay (as for pitch 3 belay of 'Cedarberg Traverse' )

2. [16] 18m

   Traverse right ( 'Cedarberg Traverse' in reverse) until one can move up to gain a white slab above. Move right and up to the top right hand corner of the slab whence an exhilarating swing right is made. Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.

3. [19] 18m

   Move to the extreme right end of the ledge and up the initial overhang in the slanting chimney-crack. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue to the top with two good resting ledges. A fine, impressive pitch in a superb position.

Note:

1. This is one of the best routes in the Magaliesberg – climb it.

2. There is a bolted anchor at the top from which you do a 60m abseil to the kloof floor.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to the comfortable ledge as for SYMBOL. Continue up the recess. Instead of traversing left make a difficult move up and right onto the front of the buttress. Climb the buttress to the ledge (the last part is shared with PHALLUS).

At the left extremity of the amphitheatre above the second weir is a grey face neatly bisected by a vertical crack. The face does not come down to ground level. The route starts in the black overhanging open book below the face and tends diagonally rightwards ending through the pronounced curved off-width crack near the top.

1. 34m 19 Ascend the overhanging open book on jams into the recess above (5m). Move right of the small overhang into another open book. Ascend to a point underneath the roof above. Break right onto the adjacent face and ascend this to gain the base of the off-width crack. Thrutch awkwardly up the crack until the top of the shield can be reached. Swing right onto the face and mantle onto the top of the shield. From its right-hand extremity pull up onto the big belay ledge. Scramble off.

Note: Protection is good on this pleasing route.

Start on the true righthand side of the kloof, about 30m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. The climb goes up a grey buttress with a small overhang 6m above the stream and capped by a large red overhang 45m up.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to a tree 2.5m above the stream and on the left hand side of the buttress and then move up diagonally right underneath the overhang. Traverse 3m right and then move up through the overhang using a small ledge as hand and foothold, and continue up for a further 3m on small holds to where a nut runner is placed in a vertical crack. Move delicately right for 2m and then up the shallow depression for 1.5m before moving diagonally back up left to a small tree on the face. Continue up for 5m to a ledge on the left hand side of the buttress. From here either climb straight up with difficulty through a small overhang to the large ledge 5m above or, (easier), traverse left around the corner and then up to the ledge.

2. 30m 10 Climb up the large red overhang, bypass it on the right and then traverse back left on to the nose above the overhang. Continue straight up to the top.

A 2m by 5m roof is situated on the true right wall of Reunion Gully. 'Cream Team' takes the obvious crack up the wall to the left of the roof.

1. 15m 19 Pull up from a hollow sounding rail to reach small holds and follow the crack to the top.

6m right of the fence (right of 'Train Massacre'). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.

Start 10m left of Woody Wood³.

1. 35m (G1 A1) Climb the groove until the crack fizzles out. Tension left of a blade to another crack and up to stance.

2. 40m (G1 A2) Climb through the first two roofs free and then into a groove. Aid up and through (6 points) and to a ledge on the right. Continue up to a ledge to belay.

3. 40m (G2) Traverse left back into crack and up to small stance in left-hand crack.

4. 40m (G2) Move up for 5m then back into right-hand crack. Continue up this to stance below and left of a tree.

5. 30m (G2 A2) Move right and up to tree. Continue up the crack free through a horrendous crumbling roof to below the final overhang. Aid through (2 points) and belay on the right.

6. 30m (F2) Traverse right about 10m then up and back left and up a crack to scrambling ground.

Note: Hard and serious with a lot of poor rock but good runners. Recommended for suicidal maniacs. Take four pegs [in 1980, what should we take today?].

This route starts 2 to 3m downstream from 'Circle Of Hands' at the deepest part of a small cave.

1. 15m 19 Ascend the overhanging corner on the left of a small cave just downstream of 'Circle Of Hands'. Continue up the short face above the corner to easier ground.

2. 30m 17 Move left to a short chimney on the left side of a steep face. After climbing up a few meters move right onto the arete and continue up to a ledge below the final steep face. Climb this final face tending slightly leftwards.

This is just a direct combo of some existing routes with linking sections.

1. Start on Joker but continue straight between two bushes to a dark grey face. Climb the intermittent crack and then step left and through the bulge to join Beeline. Continue straight to a small ledge (below and left of the projecting block where Beeline goes.)

2. Head up and slightly left to follow a break through the overlap above. Head straight to the top of the crag.

Very nice route. Crack line and right facing corner up the pinnacle. Tat and maillon at top.

A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.

1. Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this to a good stance.

2. Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.

From the grassy sleeping cave ascend to the huge descent gully to reach the huge chockstone obstruction. Traverse 40m out to the right to a left facing corner.

1. [15] 45m

   Climb up from the beacon for 3m then move right up the corner for 2m. Move right onto the white face with the big 'Kaapse' (Cape) jugs to a big ledge.

2. [19] 45m

   Walk 10m to the left to a cairn (and the world's softest belay). Climb up the obvious gnarled crack to the left of a left-facing recess. Halfway up the crack runs out. Then climb the grey slab on small holds; this looks blank from below but goes, continue to a ledge beneath a large roof.

3. [19] 25m

   Move to the right then up a crack to the top. Step around the corner and take a few steps to a wonderful platform below the overhang.

4. [19] 45m

   Climb up to the base of the roof then move left on rickety flakes to a break through the roof via an awkward notch. Once over the roof climb diagonally right to the edge of the buttress. Climb the slot for a few hard moves and continue up to a 2m wide stance (with teeny cairn)

5. [19] 45m

   Climb the crack to a jam crack then through an overlap and up a further series of cracks to the top.

Good climbing although easier options on either side of the route detract somewhat. The route begins a little downstream of the point midway between the waterfall and the huge chockstone wedged across the kloof. The first pitch goes up a prominent groove fault which leads diagonally right wards up the left side of the kloof to a large ledge 17m up, situated beneath an overhang.

1. 17m 13 Climb directly up to meet the prominent groove/fault about halfway along its length and follow it to the ledge below the overhang.

2. 25m 19 From the left side of the ledge traverse delicately leftwards round the corner and climb up to a small stance (8m 17). Climb up a few metres from stance and traverse right onto the steep face. 8m of sustained technical climbing straight up the face leads to a large ledge. (Possible to split pitch at 8m.)

3. 18m 15 Climb the corner/chimney on the arete above to a good ledge.

4. 20m 17 Climb the face to below the overhanging arete. Move around to the right side of the arete and, keeping close to the arete, climb up to a good ledge. (Alt. easier climbing lies to the right.)

5. 20m 17 Climb the yellow face above, first by using the crack on the left and then by continuing up the centre of the face (easier options may be found on the edges of the face) to finish at the top of the ridge.

Start about 9m left of 'Fistula' and immediately opposite start of 'Frog Face' and large trees in centre of kloof.

1. [15] 9m

   Mantle shelf onto ledge, then ascend on right to corner 3m below ledge forming first stance of 'Fistula' . Traverse 6m onto large ledge. Move up right hand corner onto the 'Fistula' ledge.

2. [19] 3m

   Ascend overhanging recess to ledge. Stance common with second stance of 'Fistula' .

3. [15] 30m

   From extreme left of stance, ascend 12m to piton point and up right to slab below overhanging face with crack in centre. Proceed up crack and move left between two trees. Ascend 9m up large steps and onto large ledge.

4. [7] 30m

   Ascend 30m over clean face to ledge below overhanging red face.

5. [15] 15m

   Ascend to right onto large block to right of face. Move up to corner and summit.

The route is situated on the opposite side of the kloof from CENTIPEDE. It starts opposite a large tree which is as high as the krantz itself. Just to the right of the tree is a square overhanging face.

1. 15m 13 Climb the little recess just to the right of some fig tree roots. Ascend the recess to a ledge with a good tree on it. Belay on the same tree. (A poorly protected pitch.)

2. 20m 19 Climb the face above, delicately, to just below a small overhang. Traverse left about 1m into a crack with a chockstone in it. Climb over the chockstone to a little cubbyhole. Continue rightwards to the top.

Note: Poorly protected.

1. [16] 15m

   ???

2. [18] 25m

   ???

3. [19] 20m

   ???

4. [16] 30m

   ???

The route is situated 2m downstream from MUTTERED MAGIC and takes the left most obvious line of the amphitheatre starting at ground level. The route stays left of MUTTERED MAGIC although it coincides with that route at one point.

1. 31m 19 Surmount the bulge to start and ascend the crack behind to below the first long narrow roof. Traverse right to clear this and climb the face to share a resting ledge with MUTTERED MAGIC under the second roof. Step left and gain the crack through the second roof with difficulty (MUTTERED MAGIC takes the groove off to the right). Climb the crack to the tree, thrutch through this and follow the crack through the undercut headwall to a comfortable belay stance.

Notes: Superb, clean climbing.

About 30m upstream from YARK and 30m downstream from COMMUNIST CONVERT is a tree growing up beside a face which has an overhang about 10m up.

1. 18m 19 Move up face for about 5m making liberal use of tree. Move onto ledges and then up and leftward onto ledge just below overhang. Traverse leftward with difficulty to ledge at base of a corner.

2. 15m 15 Climb strenuously up corner for about 5m and then right onto ledge. Move easily up face to large ledge and then walk right to large tree.

3. 40m 13 Move up face for 6m then to right into base of recess. Climb up past large tree to a larger tree about 12m up. Continue up recess system and then up face to top.

The first pitch described hereunder starts about three meters to the right of the crack pitch of 'Quiver Crag'.

1. [F A2] 27m Climb a slight crack in a white face using four pegs. Continue up free to an overhang above. Move to the right and up to a stance.

2. [F A2] 20m A chimney-like crack on the left is climbed to an overhang. Follow a crack to the left and upwards around the block then reach for the top of the block.

3. [E] 10m Walk clockwise around a big block and ascend a chimney to a stance on the right.

4. [19] 37m Climb up 2m and traverse to the right to a corner. Continue to the right for about 2m. The pitch goes virtually straight up from this point. A resting point will be found 8m above, slightly on the left, followed by a crack to another resting point a further 10m above. Climb the face above using layback holds to a ledge. Ascend from the right of this ledge.

Start 4m to the right of 'Living in the Past'.

1. 20m 19 Climb straight up the face to a ledge at 6m. Balancy moves up right to a peg, then move right to a rest on a nose. Climb straight up above the nose tending slightly left to finish up the steep wall above.

4m right of 'Topless Skateboard Nun'. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!

1. 30m 19 Climb up to the base of the nose of 'Bonnie' but instead of moving to the left of the nose (as in 'Bonnie'), climb up the crack system to the right of the nose. Continue up into an open book. Climb this to the roof and pull through to a good ledge in common with the normal 'Bonnie' route. Continue as in 'Bonnie'.

A stretchy route with lovely steep pitches.

Start: directly behind the Left Block.

1. Climb a 4m face to a narrow ledge. Traverse left 3m the up about 12m until the smooth face ends on a broad ledge. The sloping ramp on Plumbline is about 10m right.

2. Move left to the end of the ledge. Further left a hardly perceptible traverse continues for some 8m. Climb to a point about 3/4 along to where the lack of holds forces one diagonally left and around a corner to a gully. Easy climbing takes you within 4m of the Halfway Ledge. From here either move via an awkward traverse to a bush below a narrow overhanging block. Using the grips below the block one can lean out and move above. OR move directly upwards on small, lay-back grips for 3m then right on very small grips to a corner and on to the Halfway Ledge (better for shorties).

3. Starting just left at a point left of the middle point between Plumbline and Frasers below a narrow overhang. Use a shoulder to reach the smooth face above, then head straight up 11m to a ledge (Frasers stance is just above)

4. A pleasant traverse 18m left (crossing Frasers), followed by a recess with great rock to the top.

Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain.

Walk along the ledge at the base of the Castle to the right hand corner. The route starts up the obvious rib right of an off-width crack with a chock stone in it. Castle Corner starts on the face a meter or two to the right.

1. [30] 17m

   Ascend the juggy wall, tending slightly right until you reach the roof. Move left a couple of meters until it is possible to pull through the roof on jugs and climb to a stance below large blocks.

2. [18] 48m

   The Sublime Crack pitch. Climb up over a series of blocks for 15m until you find yourself at the base of an open book. Climb up this and then diagonally right for a few moves, before moving up and left into the base of the Sublime Crack. Climb the crack until it peters out and then head right around the edge and up an exposed jug-infested face to a narrow ledge. A stunning pitch.

3. [42] 17m

   Above you is a chimney. Climb the right hand wall on huge jugs for 5m, and then traverse left, stepping across the chimney and onto a dinosaur-back ridge. Climb the ridge and then easy ground until you find yourself on a good ledge. To the left of a deep crack is an exposed little platform. Traverse for ±2-4 m to this, then tending left for 15m on easy ground to a wide grassy ledge. Scramble up to the far left corner of the ledge.

4. [19] 30m

   Above and to the left is a pair of parallel cracks (with yellow edges) cutting through an overhanging bulge. Head up to and through these until the crack widens to an off width. Move delicately left onto a wildly exposed slably face, just shy of the left corner/ edge of tower. Continue up to a square, sloping ledge. An exciting pitch.

5. [50] 16m

   Step up and right to climb a series of immaculate faces and cracks to the top. This can be easily broken into two pitches.

About 15m upstream from CLARION and 30m up from SLAB GULLY there is a very prominent deep recess up the true left hand side of the kloof. The climb takes the line up a secondary recess, just left of this, which ends up in a narrow curving chimney above. It is necessary to wade to reach the climb.

1. 27m 19 Starting from a tree about 5m above the stream, climb up steep sustained rock for about 9m and then surmount a short overhanging section above ending in an awkward resting spot below and slightly to the left of the narrow curving chimney. A difficult move leads into the base of the chimney and then continue up strenuously for 3m until a small handrail and foothold around the corner enables one to swing out left onto a ledge on the face. Climb a further 3m to a small ledge with nut runner belay.

2. 33m 15 Move diagonally up right and then straight up to a point about 2m below some overhangs. Traverse right around the corner for 5m and then climb up to a good stance.

3. 22m 18 Continue straight up over easier rock to the top.

Starts on right side of large recess about 20m upstream from the junction with 'Lower Tonquani Kloof'

1. [19] 21m

   Climb face on right side of recess to platform Ascend 3m to piton point. Traverse left 2m into corner with vertical crack. Move 2,5m up and then semi-hand traverse left 2,5m to possible stance. Diagonally up and right for about 2,5m into crack which cuts overhang. Climb crack for 5m to stance.

2. [16] 20m

   Continue 6m up recess to overhang and move across to good holds on right. Ascend 5m and turn second overhang to right. Ascend face to tree belay.

Variation:

1. 15m 18 Start in the same place as the first pitch. Instead of moving right, climb straight up the crack. Step to the left to rejoin the original route. (This pitch is well protected.) (Jan 1990 A. Margetts and P. McCann)

1. 25m 19 At the start of pitch 1 climb straight up to the cubbyhole at the top of the pitch.

2. as per original

Short but engaging start to finish-technical

, one of the best in the 'Valhella Area'

Start: the next column right of 'Valkyrie' Climb the obvious crack to the top.

A very straight line up the face, passing the large cream flake on it's right, then up right side of face. Tricky move over to gain ledge then straight to anchor.

The route is on the second major buttress downstream of the amphitheatre and takes the obvious downstream-facing groove/crack system with three stepped overhangs. Start below the break, behind a bushy tree. [24 pipelengths above the 1st weir]

1. 36m 19 Climb the steep groove passing the small first roof and gain the base of the chimney above with difficulty. Bridge up the chimney and continue to the recess with a small tree. Chimney to the top.

Note: Very satisfying climbing.

Start a few meters right of Knuckleduster. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious.

This route is on the true right side of the kloof just 50m upstream of GOLDEN GATE. It takes the break up a grey face which is touched by the branches of a large tree about 18m above the level of the stream. It then continues up the centre of an orange buttress (not visible from the stream).

1. 40m 17 Climb the break to a large overhang and continue up to the right of the overhang (the large branches of the tree will be just behind you). Continue up and slightly left on easy ground to below an overhanging crack.

2. 30m 19 Climb the overhanging crack to easy ground and then climb the arete directly above on good jugs on its right edge.

1. [19] 8m

2. [12] 12m

3. [14] 22m

4. [14] 6m

5. [16] 11m

6. [16] 20m

7. [14] 21m

Takes overhanging recess between 'After the Goldrush' and 'Foad' on the Reunion Buttress. Start 3m left of 'Foad'.

1. [19] 35m Climb up blocky face onto slab below overhang. Pull though overhang into recess above, and follow to top. The grade eases to 15 after 20m.

Note:

The presence of an old rusty peg in the easier upper section suggests that a previous party traversed into this upper portion of the recess, or an abseil took place.

Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof to a ledge at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.

A very popular route.

The route starts near the point where the approach trail gets to the rock face in a big red recess below the right hand end of the big roof. At this point the trail turns left and follows the rock face up. A convenient block on the ledge, about 5m up a ramp from the trail, marks the start of the route on the right hand wall of the recess.

1. 45m (19) Climb straight up from the ledge to a wide shallow crack with a loose block at the bottom. Climb the crack to it's end and then go left to a large flake. Climb the flake and a smaller one above it and continue straight up the recess to a wide rail. Above the rail is a small roof. Climb up to the roof and pass it on the left (a finger crack a metre to the left has a good layback hold (crux)). Continue up the short off-width crack through the overhang above. Continue up to large ledge.

2. 25m (15) Climb up and left under a large roof. Traverse left using the rail under the roof and decent footholds. Turn the roof on the far left and continue up easily to a large ledge. The next pitch starts 5m to the right below a narrow flaring crack that splits the roof above with a finger crack half a meter left of it.

3. 20m (18) Climb the above-mentioned finger crack. Hand swing to the right under the roof and do an awkward move to gain the ledge to the right of the roof. Climb the chimney above the ledge and move to the face on the left when it narrows after a few meters. Follow a crack to another roof then move out onto the face on the right and climb straight up to bushy ledge above.

4. 20m (14) 6m to the right is an obvious break in the face - this is climbed by the last pitch of Blunt Brothers. Climb up 2m to the left of this, pulling through a small roof on good jugs. Climb straight up until you can scramble easily to the top.

The excellent open book closes to the waterfall, has chains. Awaits a retro bolt.

The climb starts about 35m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe on the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz. Start just right of a beacon at the base of a recess sloping diagonally up leftwards ('First Choice') and below a prominent buttress split by a shallow recess in the upper half of the cliff.

1. 25m 19 Climb up on the left-hand side of the buttress for 5m. Traverse right across a steep face and then up on to the buttress. Climb diagonally right to the base of an undercut chimney. Climb this (crux) and at the top step left to a small stance in a recess below some steep rock.

2. 30m 17 Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

"An intimidating route and a bit grotty in places."

Start: from the fireplace at Postern Cave traverse left to the start of Postern Crag, then descend about 7m to reach a stance overlooking Kasteel Poort. The first Beacon is for Posternation, the next left is for this route.

1. Climb up the slightly recessed face above the beacon 6m. reach left to a handrail, swing across, pull up and continue straight up the face to a stance.

2. Climb up the smooth white face.

3. Move up the bulging corner to the left of the stance to a beacon.

4. Climb 3m above the beacon and then continue left into a recess which is climbed for 2m. Traverse right onto the point of a small nose and continue straight up to the Halfway Ledge.

5. Start climbing 2m right of a grassy corner, (about 15m right of the crux pitch of Champs). Although the rock is completely undercut, by taking a shoulder it is possible to reach the higher of 2 hand rails. Traverse right 2m, then lay-back into the bottom of a recess (Tricky). Ascend the recess for 3m, then a short traverse and ascend to a stance.

6. Climb up and out left form under the overhang. Traverse left to a wide crack in the left wall. Ascend 2-3m then traverse right to an obvious stance.

7. From the back of the stance climb a short distance up a dirty crack, then traverse left into a wide crack. Climb out of the crack, then continue up the face until its possible to squeeze back in to the crack. Climb out of the crack and continue up, keeping slightly left until a good stance. Walk left and climb to a large tree.

8. Nondescript climbing takes one to the top of the buttress.

The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of the Owl ledge.

Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess.

Approach: Walk past the pilon and after about 15min head into the forest just after the short scramble on the walk-up to Yellowwood

Start on the right side of the gray/white pillar. Climb up onto a block, carry on up and left to access two cracks on very orange rock, climb this slab, headed for the roof/ corner above. Exit the coner to the right, then up a pocketed face. Above and right is a bolted stance, which is a good place to belay from as your seconds might fall at the roof crux and this ensures less work for yourself.

The climb starts from a boulder in the middle of the pool in lower Grootkloof immediately opposite the beginning of CATHERDRAL WALL and TRESPASSERS W.

1. 15m 17 From the boulder ascend the wall on the left side of the kloof to a ledge about 4m above the water level. Climb diagonally right up a prominent recess for about 6m to the overhang, above which the recess becomes a narrow crack on a steep face. Climb through the overhang and continue up the steep face for about 3m to a tiny stance in a triangular recess on top of a loose chockstone.

2. 18m 19,A1 Move slightly left and up about 2m to a small ledge. Traverse right 2,5m using two pitons and then up a scoop for about 6m to a sloping ledge. Traverse left about 3m then up an obvious hand jam crack for 3m. From this point move left with difficulty to a small ledge around the corner. Continue up for about 3m and then right for 4m along a sloping ledge to a comfortable stance behind small trees.

3. 37m 11 Climb face and recess behind the stance for 9m and then continue up the face to top on very pleasant rock.

Climbs the vague arete between 'Sunday Driver' and 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [19] 15m Move up and left beneath a small roof to gain a layback crack which is followed to large holds. Continue to a ledge.

This climb is situated about 150 paces from the meet point where the arete meets the water. Scramble up a short wall to the grass ledge. TASK FORCE takes the right recess, ALOE ANARCHY takes the left recess, i.e. 5m to left of TASK FORCE.

1. 30m 19 Climb up the recess moving left past the first overhang to below the second overhang. Pull through the second overhang. Continue up the steep recess to the bulge. Move through this bulge and continue to the top.

Note: Sustained climbing on a direct aesthetic line.

The main feature on this route is the big left-leaning grey groove to the left of the overhanging bands on the south-west face. Start from the ledges directly below the groove.

1. [17] 10m

   Climb a shallow corner to the right, then traverse left to a narrow ledge at the base of the groove.

2. [19] 40m

   Superb climbing leads up the back of the groove and out to the left around and overhang. Climb up the short corners above to a massive ledge on the right.

3. [15] 25m

   Go horizontally to the left on a narrow rail to a niche and then climb directly up on jugs to a belay ledge.

4. [15] 50m

   An easy chimney gives access to an escape ledge whence scrambling on gargoyles leads to the summit.

The route is situated some 3m upstream of PIN HEAD on the small grey buttress opposite the entrance to the waterfall gully (cairn). The route has, as objective, the right hand crack in the head wall high up on the buttress and takes the slab just upstream of the arête to get there.

1. 39m 20 Climb the thin slab to gain the layaway ridge upstream and parallel to the arête. Move up this to a rest of sorts, and then climb the wall to gain the base of the crack system above. Move up the crack to gain the pin head ledge below the head wall and ascend the crack to the comfortable belay stance above. Beware of a loose flake at the start of the jam crack.

Note: Climbing on the crux is bold. Descent is possible, by abseil, down the loose gully on the upstream side of the buttress. Be careful.

The route starts from the Tea Cave ledge directly where the abseil comes down from the bolted anchors (between Naught For Your Comfort on the left and Aquanaut on the right).

1. 20m (19): Pull up onto the steep white face and climb directly via a pocket and a thin gear placement to the ledge above. Cross over Aquanaut (which traverses left here) and move up to below a bulge. Pull straight through the bulge and continue to the bolted anchors. Cross the huge ledge to the start of the next pitch of Clifton Crest. Pitch 2 of Codgernaut takes the face between Crest’s corner and Excaliber, which climbs the front of the Gendarme.

2. 25m (18): Move up Crest for about 2 metres, then step to the right to gain the white face just to the left of a precarious looking jutting out block. Blast straight up the middle of the face past a few rails, till you reach a deep hollowed out rail about two-thirds of the way up the face. Step right and using a hollow flake, which forms the top of the rail, move up and right to gain the left edge of the Gendarme. Climb the edge on thin grips till it eases at the ledge above (this last section up the edge is shared with Excaliber). Follow either Excalber or Clifton Crest to the higher ledge and the abseil anchors.

The route starts from the top of the tapered block forming the right hand side of Reunion cave, and climbs straight up through steep rock.

1. [19] 12m

   Climb a slight bulge to footholds beneath the small overhang. Pull through onto easier rock. Move up and step left to stance at base of a recess.

2. [15] 25m

   Follow the recess/cracks to the top. (Slightly unsound rock).

An alternative start is found 8m further downstream

1. [19] 25m

   Climb up the wall to a semi-layback crack. Continue up until the wall eases off at an off-width crack. Climb this (awkward), then move diagonally left to a prominent nose (bent right). Continue up to a small stance.

2. [17] 30m

   Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

A monument to bold, hard leading, well ahead of its time. Graded G2 (20) in the old guide.

Start: directly behind the Right Block.

1. From the block climb a short face with a strenuous take-off, traverse left, and move diagonally up a fault to a point 27m above, and immediately below an overhanging recess which seems to cut through the overhang. From a bollard an extremely awkward move right and up turns the overhang. 3m further up is a stance.

2. 6m right of the previous pitch, climb an 11m face. Climb a broken recess to the right of Plumbline Face crack to the Halfway Ledge.

3. The beacon is 4m left of Cameron's Frontal. Pull up the overhanging recess (8m) to the edge of the overhang. Hand traverse 4m right, move onto a bollard then traverse 3m left to turn the overhangs.

4. Move left to climb a corner.

5. Start 1m or so right of Cameron's Frontal, and ascend the face on small holds.

Strenuous and technical, but well protected and offering a variety of climbing on good rock. Deserves more ascents. Start in a corner capped by a huge roof.

Climb the right hand side of the corner and then traverse left onto a ledge. Climb up to a recess and crack which is climbed to a large rail (sustained). Traverse left for two metres and move up diagonally right to a left-slanting recess which is followed to the top.

Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of SIDEWALK. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.

1. 35m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.

2. 20m 19,A1 Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.

3. 25m 10 Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.

Walk below the crag till to just before the path steps down/ Just before the trees. The route starts in an alcove with a fairly large cairn.

1. 19 15m

   Start on the left of the alcove till able to stem across, pull up to the right of the bulge to gain a pedestal. Step right to gain the finger crack. climbs this to exit left and up to the top. Once at the ledge walk 4-6m left.

2. 19 25m

   Climb the recess to just a few meters below the roof, when possible traverse left. Continue diagonally left on good rails.

The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of 'Gnasher' and 'Dennis the Menace' , and is directly in line with the lower part of Boulder kloof. The climb (marked by cairn) starts in a vague recess and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend right.

1. 20m 19 Straddle up the recess to the base of the slanting crack, move right then up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left to above the crack and ascend the step-like ledges to top.

Halfway down FROG GULLY there is a broad ledge on the true right hand side of the gully. The route starts 3m to the right of a tree at a point where the branches touch the rock (cairn).

1. 22m 19 Pull onto face, 1m right of its undercut base and ascend directly to large block on the left. Make a rising traverse right to gain the finger-jam crack at the base of the open groove containing a tree. Ascend the groove to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 From stance make rising traverse right for about 4m to gain a series of large knobbles and then ascend the thin crack above. Pull over the bulge above, step left and continue directly up the pillar above. Finish up the flake-crack on the left.

This climb takes the second crack line from the left on the same buttress as SHAKA ZULU.

1. 18m 19 Climb the crack up to a small ledge. Continue up the steep recess using the left and right crack systems. Exit leftwards at the top of the recess.

Note: Crux near top, well protected.

1. [18] ??m

   ???

2. [19] ??m

   ???

Specialist gear required.

Directly across from the large waterfall gully is a grey buttress, with on its downstream end a steep gully, at the right-hand extremity of which are two grooves. The route climbs the right of the two grooves, bypassing a roof in the process. [Pipe No 31 above the pipe ramp].

1. 22m 19 Ascend the right-hand groove on jams to the base of the open book above. Ascend the open book by bridging to the point at which it is capped by a roof (thin). Move out left from under the roof, with difficulty, and mantleshelf onto the cramped resting ledge above and to the left (off balance). Move right from the ledge, around the arête, onto the face above the roof and mantleshelf onto the small ledge below the open book above. Ascend this on jams and thin holds to the top.

Note: A magnificent thin route with sparse but adequate protection. Sustained and technical.

Climb the blunt arete to the right of Lookout. At the small ledge, pull up onto the fin (sounds hollow, but seems solid) and move strenuosly up and slightly right. Finish up the ramp to the broad ledge.

This climb follows the crack system to the left of Symphony of Pistons.

1. Climb the shallow corner pulling through to a rail. Traverse left and climb up into a scoop below a small roof.

2. Using the crack, traverse left and then up to a small, off-balance ledge. Climb the corner crack to below a small roof. Traverse to the right and move around a corner. From here climb a sloping slab with a good crack on the right-hand side, till a good stance is reached. Step to the right across an exposed gap using a good handrail, to reach a good ledge. (This pitch may be broken into two to reduce rope drag).

3. Climb the corner, making some awkward moves, to reach the top.

A classic line.

Start: Behind the Middle Block.

1. Move up left and do an awkward mantleshelf to gain a narrow ledge. Traverse right 8m along the ledge to an obvious recess and climb this to another ledge about 14m above. Immediately behind is a sloping ramp which is climbed to a stance with a large flake on it.

2. Traverse 2m right and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right 5m, then climb a sloping ramp to a small pinnacle. Traverse left until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk left about 30m to a large block.

3. Using a sling to reach a bollard protruding from the face, pull up and continue to the ledge beneath the large overhang.

4. Traverse right over some loose blocks. Where the ledge ends, move up 3m to a small stance with a loose block on it.

5. Move left onto an exposed corner, then traverse 13m left into a chimney. Climb the chimney, then continue up over a very large detached block on the right and climb the recess immediately above, exiting left onto a ledge. Move along the ledge and climb up to a broad ledge and the end of the route.

Climbs the wall to the right of 'Reunion Slab'.

1. [19] 25m Starting on the right of the wall, move up and left onto the wall and then straight on up through the roofs to the rap tree.

The route starts about 5m downstream of the direct start of 'Fiona's Folly'. The route goes up a groove line for 25m to a large ledge and then up a black water-stained face for 15m to a large ledge. It finally finishes up the overhanging face with the cubbyhole directly above.

1. 25m 15 Climb the groove (awkward start) which lies 5m to the right of the direct start to 'Fiona's Folly'. At 10m traverse a few meters right and continue up the groove via some balancing moves to a large ledge with a tree belay.

2. 10m 10 Climb the black water-stained face above to the large ledge.

3. 20m 19,A1 From the left side of the ledge step down and traverse 5m left to the first of two obvious corners about 2m apart. Climb the corner for a few meters then use aid to overcome the overhang. Make some obvious moves to gain the cubbyhole, then aid to move right out of cubbyhole and up. Make some strenuous moves to gain the top of the face.