Ascents in Spain by Dominik

6aish climbing until the yellow streak. Then hard crimp and pocket pulling - too hard for me.

Working a bit on the crux into the sidepull.

Falko and I were debating whether you were "allowed" to use the good pockets on the left to get to the anchor or whether you had to go more direct and straight up (harder).

The route goes a bit zig zag. Long quickdraws recommended. I also unclipped the bolt after the flake for less ropedrag.

Felt better than I remembered. But still don't have a good sequence for the crux.

Bit dirty on top.

Finally!

One rest at third quickdraw.

Still can't clip the second quickdraw properly.

Putting up the draws - clipstick was my best friend.

First attempt to put up draws and re-learn the moves. Second to send.

Same same.

Today was not the day...

As most of the routes here, this is basically just a boulder problem at the start - and then significantly easier. Hard to say whether I agree with the given grade, 6b+. Probably soft.

Reachy

Before reaching the tufa there is already quite a stretch to pass a relatively blank section.

The lower part of the tufa is still good, but the upper part was really hard - at least if you don't want to wander into the other routes that are really close.

After a number of different holds for both hands and feet, I eventually found a combination and sequence through the tufa. But it was quite hard (6b+/c?).

Found a new beta: jumping to the big hole with the left hand. That felt quite good and is way easier than trying to get there with the right hand.

I can imagine that this was graded 7a+ with the right hand beta in mind. But with the left hand beta it's maybe only 6c+...?

Stuck the dynamic start move on the second go, the rest went smoothly.

Very good attempt. Only missed the top hold

The third attempt was alright. Got about half-way between 3rd and 4th bolt. One rest, then to the chains.

Again the same warmup climb. With the sun in the face, the climb didn't flow well. Struggled more than I wanted.

More attempts, but still lacking the power endurance to reach the jug.

The bottom part, including the start, goes well now

This route is essentially just the start boulder. Not worth it.

Super steep route. Feels a lot harder than the 6b+ on the left.

The rock quality in the overhang is not very good. It's crumbly at times and I can imagine that some of the crimps now won't be there anymore in a year.

The biggest jug of the overhang was loose and I kicked it free on my way down. The good news is that there is still a good hold behind where the good jug was. In any case, the belayer should wear a helmet.

The route has plenty of big holds - except for one section in the overhang where you have to pull hard and make a committing dynamic move to reach the third bolt.

A lot harder than I expected. Difficult to get over the lip.

Interesting route. But the start - no surprise - is polished and hard.

Again one rest at the third bolt. Still lacking the power endurance to climb straight through to the fourth bolt.

okay as a warm-up

Nice moves on the first half, but was a bit too afraid to try for the top.

Let's say, I touched the holds - and realized that this is still way out of my league.

Technical route. Once you have dialled all the small nuances it goes down smoothly.

First move is hard, then easy to the top

First send of the day - yay!

Tried a few times with the "wrong" beta. Gave one good attempt with the "right" beta, but failed one the mantle.

Felt quite hard at the grade. Maybe I was missing the right sequence.

Quite easy on the lower half, a bit sketchy on top. Top was also a bit dirty.

Tried a bit half-heartedly, but couldn't figure out how the sequence goes.

Three attempts on the throw with the right hand. Upper part fairly easy.