Ascents in Spain by Jakob Schubert

2nd ascent after Will. I now fulfilled the ultimate task to do all the hard routes in this sector in my 9 climbing day of the trip, so psyched 😄 This one was hard for me, had to find new beta since I couldn’t do the move Will did. If you like the style it‘s probably similarly hard as Jungle Speed though 🤔 Check my video of King Capella and la Capella here:

3rd ascent after Will and Alex. 3rd try and right after flashing Jungle Speed, such a sick day! Really my style and with Alex‘s new beta I‘d grade this one 9a+ as well especially since I graded La Capella 9a+ and I think they are similarly hard. But who knows, this is my suggestion 😉

Yes! Probably my hardest flash so far, at least I really struggled and had to fight 😅 8c+/9a, hard to grade after the flash since I definitely didn’t climb it optimally.. Thanks for the beta and support Alfons 🙏

Just 2 hours after King Capella, such a sick day! One day I had to give King Capella a break because of my skin, so I briefly checked this one out. Because I loved the style so much I could do it very fast on the same day as King Capella then. Thanks to Alex Megos for sharing his great beta with me. Really didn’t feel like a 9b to me, so gotta go with 9a+ on this one.. Video:

2nd repetition after Will Bosi (FA) and Alex Megos. It took me 4 days of work. Such a cool route, definitely my style, a very bouldery crimpy route! Since it‘s so sharp the skin management was almost the biggest challenge for me. It went down too quick to agree on 9b+ so I think hard 9b could be more appropriate 🤔 Uncut phone footage following soon! Video:

It took me many tries to finally stick the dyno but once I did I could send! Such an amazing line! Definitely harder than Alasha for me but less scary..

Flash. One of the best in Mallorca!!

Flash. 8a+/8b

On sight

1st go, did the left (harder) exit first. Such a fun jump!

Flash. Such a good one!

1st repetition What a vision of a climb. Thanks for finding and establishing this perfect route Chris Sharma Grading in dws is difficult and weird, I will post more about what I think soon.

Flash

Flash

My hardest flash so far! People call it 9a since two things broke in the crux but could very well still be 8c+, hard to tell with just one try on it. Love the bouldery style!

What a day! Quickly checked the moves after sending Perfecto Mundo and did it right after before it got dark. Such a cool route!

3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!!

2nd ascent after Chris Sharma! Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!! You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge) 2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest 3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore

One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper. Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!!

YEEEAH

broke the top hold when I was going to clip the chains, so some would say not an actual ascent.. Would be the 2nd ascent after chris took out the sika holds I think. hard for 9a..

a lot of sika but climbs well! soft for 9a+ I think

flash/onsight

3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra

First 9b, such an amazing birthday present!

back home after tomorrow.. was an amazing spain trip again, back to training mode now...

3rd Go, but I knew the 2nd part already..(Seleccio Natural). Again with the new little extension, SA after Magnus of this version of the route,easy 9a like that we think... future will tell though..

3rd Go this trip. two 9a's in a day, great start of the year!!

Best route that I have done in Margalef! 3rd Go this year/day (4th in total)

FA of the new little extention which gives this nice line the obvious end. Solid 9a like this I think..

2nd day in Spain, feels great to be here! Merry Christmas!!

really good! short slabby boulder after the 8b. I guess SA after Chris

awesome!!! 8b+/8c

basically onsight

did Novena Puerta before (same end)... which is not much harder in my opinion...

8b+/8c I think, should have tried to onsight, but I tried Fuck the System before, which has the same start -.-

YEAAH! huge relief, 50m... mentally very hard! tried in december for 3 days, 2 days this year. 11 tries in total! in my last try, before leavin oliana!

soo good!!!