Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||||||
6a |
★★★ Dorées les balades
- with
Mi
1
5b
250m
2
6a
3
5b
4
5c
5
6a
6
6a
7
6a
8
6a
| 250m, 20 | Pays du St-Bernard | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Jul 2022 | ||||
|
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5a | ★★★ North Ridge | 1200m, 20 | Piz Badile | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Aug 2022 | ||||
5a | ★★★ North Ridge | 1200m, 20 | Piz Badile | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
5a | ★★★ North Ridge | 1200m, 20 | Piz Badile | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Entered the Ridge in the dark too early. Roped up after pitch #4. Did Running belay to the top (~3h) except 10m (crux). Great line. Great day.
|
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5a | ★★★ North Ridge | 1200m, 20 | Piz Badile | Sun 1st Sep 2013 | |||||
5c | s'Schlüsselblüemli | 120m, 19 | Alpstein | Average | Sun 10th May 2020 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Kater Garfield | 230m, 19 | Chli Bielenhorn | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Aug 2020 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Kater Garfield - with Jeffrey | 230m, 19 | Chli Bielenhorn | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Jul 2020 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Kater Garfield | 230m, 19 | Chli Bielenhorn | Sun 12th Sep 2021 | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Devils Last Dance | 230m, 16 | Teufelstalwand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Oct 2018 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Devils Last Dance | 230m, 16 | Teufelstalwand | Fri 17th Sep 2021 | |||||
6b | ★★★ No brains - no headaches | 160m, 16 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th May 2022 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Devils Last Dance | 230m, 16 | Teufelstalwand | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Devils Last Dance | 230m, 16 | Teufelstalwand | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Face-to-Face | 150m, 15 | Albigna | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Aug 2008 | ||||
10Sl (inkl 6c+), mit Mirko, Einstieg über Spidi, SRII
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Albigna | Wed 16th Sep 2009 | |||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Albigna | ★ Good | Mon 20th Jul 2009 | ||||
Swung leads. (Date not exact -- was late July 2009 trip to the Alps.)
|
|||||||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Via Leni (Leni) | 150m, 14 | Albigna | Mon 25th Aug 2008 | |||||
5Sl, mit Anika
|
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6a+ |
★★ Via Leni
1
5c
150m
2
6a+
3
5c
4
5c
5
5c+
| 150m, 14 | Albigna | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Albigna | ★★★ Classic | 1995 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Via Leni
- with
Jonino
1
5c
150m
2
6a+
3
5c
4
5c
5
5c+
| 150m, 14 | Albigna | Wed 30th Jun 2021 | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Buurebüebli | 210m, 14 | Teufelstalwand | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Buurebüebli | 210m, 14 | Teufelstalwand | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Aug 2020 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Danielli - Pohl - with Chistian | 150m, 14 | Piansecco | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Sep 2010 | ||||
date?
|
|||||||||
3b | ★★★ Rosakante | 190m, 14 | Alpstein | Sat 1st Aug 2015 | |||||
6a+ |
BasDino
1
6a+
120m
2
5c
3
5c+
4
6a
| 120m, 14 | Piansecco | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||||
6b+ |
Chiappe tuonanti
1
5c
120m
2
6b+
3
4c
4
6b
| 120m, 14 | Piansecco | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||||
6c+ |
★★★ Danielli - Pohl
1
6c+
38m
2
6a+
25m
3
5a
15m
4
6a+
40m
5
6b+
30m
| 150m, 14 | Piansecco | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Erste Seillänge ist knallhart. Geht aber A0.
2.Sl sehr schön, aber hart (6b?) 4.Sl hat mir sehr gefallen. Die fünfte ging nicht frei. Harter Boulder move... danach einfach. Abgeseilt über die Route. |
|||||||||
4c |
★★★ Rosakante
1
4a
2
4c
50m
linkup Bötschgi
3
3c
4
4b
| 50m, 14 | Alpstein | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Oct 2022 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Danielli - Pohl | 150m, 14 | Piansecco | Thu 27th Jun 2019 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Albigna | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Danielli - Pohl | 150m, 14 | Piansecco | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni - with Arginator | 150m, 14 | Albigna | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
6c+ ~7a |
★★★ Danielli - Pohl
- with
ToxicD
5
6a
30
lead by
ToxicD
We did a variation to the right in a dihedral with a crack. The lower part is clean until the actual route is joined again about halfway through the pitch. | 150m, 14 | Piansecco | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | ||||
Amazing route. Climbed two clean pitches to the top from the end of the route.
|
|||||||||
6c+ |
★★★ Danielli - Pohl
- with
Fabian Michel
1
6c+
38m
lead by
Fabian Michel
What a opener. Some boulder moves on slopers to reach the first ledge. Easy 10m bring you to the heart of P1. A 10-15m mix of single and double crack. Jam and layback the hell out of it, it only gets easier almost at the end. Many bolts, so A0 is probably around 6a+.
2
6a+
25m
lead by
ToxicD
AWESOME double crack with hand and fingerjams. Not too hard for the grade, but my lungs were pumping due to insufficient acclimatization. Extraordinary crack climbing in chamonix style.
3
5c
15m
lead by
ToxicD
Fun pitch. Climbs the huge flake and some downclimbing after swinging to the left.
4
6a+
40m
lead by
Fabian Michel
Long, varied, exposed. Superb rock quality, and a little crux at the end with an overhanging flake/jam mix. Needed to rest a bit.
5
5c
30m
lead by
ToxicD
Climbed the 5c variant from G. Castioni and M. Pedrini (1981) which goes slightly to the right into a beautful dihedral which has to be gear protected (BD 0.5-1). Easy start with good footholds, the hardest part is protected by two bolts at the end of the dihedral. Wonderful pitch. | 250m, 14 | Piansecco | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | ||||
Amazing and varied route. Should not be missed in any case.
Easily combine P2+P3 to fasten things up. We brought one rack, which is nice to have for placements in between bolts and for the P5 5c dihedral variant. Climbed two clean pitches to the top from the end of the route. |
|||||||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Albigna | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||||
6c+ |
★★ Buurebüebli
1
6a
2
6a
3
6c+
4
6c
5
6a+
6
4a
| 210m, 14 | Teufelstalwand | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Buurebüebli - with Monse | 210m, 14 | Teufelstalwand | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Buurebüebli | 210m, 14 | Teufelstalwand | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni — 2 attempts | 150m, 14 | Albigna | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | |||||
6b | Schnodernasenweg - with Lamπ[tm] | 13 | Alpstein | Sun 4th Aug 2013 | |||||
To scared in the first pitch. Bad weather.
|
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5c+ | ★★ Salü Res | 160m, 13 | Kandertal | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Salü Res | 160m, 13 | Kandertal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Jul 2021 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Musique gaie pour un demain triste | 120m, 13 | Piansecco | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
5c+ | ★★ Salü Res | 160m, 13 | Kandertal | Sun 2nd Jul 2023 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Musique gaie pour un demain triste - with Christian | 120m, 13 | Piansecco | ★★★ Classic | Sep 2010 | ||||
date?
|
|||||||||
4a 4c | ★★ Männertrü | 130m, 12 | Rigi - Hochflue | Sat 5th Aug 2006 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Le rondini sanguinarie | 220m, 12 | Rudenwand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Aug 2014 | ||||
6b |
Arcobaleno
1
5b
35m
2
5a
35m
3
5b
35m
4
6a
35m
5
6b
35m
6
5c
35m
7
5c+
35m
8
6a
35m
9
5a
35m
10
5c+
35m
| 350m, 12 | Avegno | Thu 23rd Aug 2018 | |||||
5c+ |
★ Ostgrat
- with
Tobias
1
2a
25m
2
4c
20m
3
5c+
35m
| 80m, 12 | Alpstein | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Jun 2019 | ||||
Leider nach 3SL abgeseilt, da das Wetter nicht besser werden wollte..
|
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7+ | ★★★ Haldejohli | 450m, 12 | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Sep 2016 | ||||
5c+ | ★★★ Bayernschweiss | 320m, 12 | Jegihorn | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Aug 2020 | ||||
7+ | ★★★ Haldejohli | 450m, 12 | Kirchlispitzen South | Wed 9th Sep 2020 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Le rondini sanguinarie | 220m, 12 | Rudenwand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th May 2022 | ||||
Amazing! Some pitches feel a bit harder than the official grades.
|
|||||||||
6a+ | ★ Albatross | 130m, 12 | Alpstein | ★ Good | Sun 15th May 2022 | ||||
5c+ | ★★★ Bayernschweiss | 320m, 12 | Jegihorn | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
7+ | ★★★ Haldejohli | 450m, 12 | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
7b |
★★★ Süpervitamin
1
6a+
2
6a
3
6b+
4
7a
5
7a+
6
7b
7
7a+
| 12 | Titlis | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Aug 2022 | ||||
7b+ Easy | ★★★ Süpervitamin - with Steffen Ha | 12 | Titlis | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Sep 2022 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Ten years after | 220m, 12 | Piansecco | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
4c | ★★ Männertrü - with rk | 130m, 12 | Rigi - Hochflue | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | |||||
Route is well bolted except for the last pitch there is one slight runout where one or two nut/cam placements are possible (but not necessary).
|
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5c+ |
★★★ Manifestazioni non autorizzate
- with
Patrick Zumsteg
1
5c+
2
5a
3
5b
| 150m, 12 | Avegno | ★★★ Classic | Tue 23rd May 2023 | ||||
5c+ | ★★★ Bayernschweiss | 320m, 12 | Jegihorn | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Jun 2023 | ||||
4c | ★★ Männertrü | 130m, 12 | Rigi - Hochflue | Sun 2nd Jul 2023 | |||||
5c+ | ★ Ostgrat | 200m, 12 | Alpstein | Sun 9th Jul 2023 | |||||
Haben den Einstieg nicht gefunden bzw. war alles ziemlich zugewachsen, so dass man nicht unbedingt motiviert war, sich durchs Dickicht zu kämpfen. Laut Wirt der Roslenalp ist wohl in der 3. SL was ausgebrochen, am besten vor einer Begehung dort nochmal informieren.
|
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6a+ Easy | ★★★ Mangolyto - with thomas c | 12 | Winterstock Turm I | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Jul 2023 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Dietro Petazzi
- with
Christian
1
5c+
2
6a+
| 220m, 12 | Piansecco | ★★ Very Good | Sep 2010 | ||||
only Dietro Petazzi
Date?
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Nuovi orizzonti P5
- with
Christian
5
6b+
20m
| 20m, 12 | Piansecco | ★★★ Classic | Sep 2010 | ||||
last pitch only in combination with Musique
|
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7a | ★★★ Le rondini sanguinarie | 220m, 12 | Rudenwand | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★ Il macho - with L. | 130m, 12 | Pilastro Grigio | ★ Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | ||||
Route next to it is gone. First two pinches nice but some moss... approach bit uncomfortable with the ravine. Left after patch 2 due to thunder approaching. Well bolted we didn't need friends.
|
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6a+ |
★★★ Mangolyto
- with
Franz
1
5c+
lead by
Franz
Tricky and hard slab, long bolt distances. No possibility to place additional gear.
3
6a
lead by
Franz
Awesome face climbing mostly on good crimps and a slabby finish.
5
5c+
lead by
Franz
6
5c
lead by
ToxicD
Juggy pitch, almost every hold is solid and big. So much fun. The belay is a bit hidden to the left around the corner at the last bolt.
7
6a
lead by
Franz
The money pitch. Starts with a easy hand crack and steepens up. Climb at the steep flake for a while and enjoy. | 12 | Winterstock Turm I | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
Without doubt the best plaisir Multipitch in the furka area. Every pitch (maybe except the slab, in P1, if you are bad at slabs). The approach through a beautiful valley with a river and clean water. Must do.
|
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7a | ★★★ Le rondini sanguinarie | 220m, 12 | Rudenwand | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | ||||
6a+ |
★★★ Mangolyto
1
5c+
2
5c+
3
6a
4
6a+
5
5c+
| 12 | Winterstock Turm I | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | ||||
Traumhafte MSL. Absicherung gut. Braucht vereinzelt Friends.
|
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7+ | ★★★ Haldejohli | 450m, 12 | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | ||||
6a+ |
Il tasso
2
6a+
3
5c
| 350m, 12 | Avegno | Fri 19th Apr 2024 | |||||
Difficult to be sure where you are in this wall. The Scala in the SAC Tessin topo does not correspond.
|
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6b |
Arcobaleno
- with
Karl
| 350m, 12 | Avegno | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
6b |
Arcobaleno
1
5b
2
5a
3
5b
4
6a
5
6b
6
5c
7
5c+
8
6a
9
5a
10
5c+
| 350m, 12 | Avegno | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | |||||
5b | ★ Fortuna | 110m, 11 | Alpstein | ★ Good | Sun 25th Nov 2018 | ||||
Letzte Länge sehr schön Wasserrillen. Zweite interessante am Anfang. Erste Ist super auch.
|
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6a |
★ Shower Power
1
3b
20m
2
4c
40m
3
5b
20m
4
6a
35m
5
5b
30m
6
3a
20m
| 170m, 11 | Alpstein | ★ Good | Sat 9th May 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ C'est Mozart qu'on assassine | 400m, 11 | Pays du St-Bernard | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 15th Sep 2020 | ||||
6a | ★★ Herbstweg | 120m, 11 | Kandertal | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Jul 2021 | ||||
6a | ★★ Herbstweg | 120m, 11 | Kandertal | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Sep 2021 | ||||
6a | ★★ Herbstweg | 120m, 11 | Kandertal | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||||
7a+ |
★★★ Molloch
- with
Christian
1
lead by
Nicky
2
lead by
Christian
3
lead by
Christian
4
lead by
Nicky
| 140m, 10 | Bodio | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th May 2013 | ||||
5b 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante - with Rainer | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | 2012 | ||||
5b 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante - with Tobi | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Oct 2013 | ||||
5b |
★★★ Schafbergkante (Schafbergkante Linkup Morgamutsch)
- with
Felix
7
linkup Morgamutsch
, lead by
Me
8
lead by
Felix
9
lead by
Me
10
lead by
Felix
11
lead by
Me
12
lead by
Felix
| 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | ||||
5c 6a | ★★ Distelberg Südkante (Distelberg) - with Dimitri, Karin | 400m, 10 | Oberaletsch | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Aug 2014 | ||||
6a |
★★★ Panini
- with
Jakob
1
5b+
lead by
Jakob
2
6a
lead by
Thomas
3
6a
lead by
Jakob
4
6a
lead by
Thomas
5
5c
lead by
Jakob
6
5b
lead by
Thomas
7
6a
lead by
Jakob
| 250m, 10 | Piansecco | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Aug 2017 | ||||
Reiner genuss an tollem Fels
|
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5b 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante - with esther | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | ||||
Perfekte Bedingungen - leichter Schleier in der Luft hat Gewitterbildung verzögert. Beim Abstieg zu Fuss über den normalen Wanderweg aber bereits den Aufwind zum Kühlen im Gesicht .
Lässige Kletterei in leichten Graden mit wenigen aber ausreichenden Absicherungen, wobei die "Crux" 5b mehr Bolts auf 5 m aufweist als jede Sportroute in dem Grad ... |
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6a | Südwandverschneidung - with Theodore B | 390m, 10 | Alpstein | Don't Bother | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | ||||
Long and intense climb ... pretty solid for the grade, to be franck ! From the farm, the approach to the bottom of the route is not easy and can be dangerous if you engage in the wrong place. Except 2 or 3 pitches, everything is lose rock and soil and grass what gives a bitter taste to many sections and makes it hard to protect in many occasions. Be ready for long runnouts where everything in your hands or under your feet can collapse at anytime ! The view from the top is worth the pain. To go down, once you've crossed the samll ridge to the large ring at the right hand side chimney, you can chose the downclimb option but a safer and even quicker one seems to do 3 abseils. Abseil down for 50 m in the chimney and after (mind the lose rocks when pulling the rope). down climb for 15m and use the big rock spoiler on your right to abseil again in the steep path until you find another large abseil ring on the wall on your right. use the ring to abseil for another 50 m to avoid a stupid accident in the slippery grass patches.
|
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5a | ★★ Südwestpfeiler | 360m, 10 | Alpstein | Sat 23rd Jun 2012 | |||||
5b 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante - with Carsten | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
Perfekte Bedingungen. Sowohl vom Wetter als auch von den Leuten: nur eine Seilschaft folgte uns mit 2 SL Abstand. Waren mit 50er-Seil unterwegs, das war zweimal etwas knapp (durch leichtes Gelände aber kein Problem).
|
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5b | ★★★ Schafbergkante - with Thorsten | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Südwand - with Tobias | 240m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jun 2019 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Verborgene
- with
Conny
1
6a+
200m
2
6a
3
6a+
4
6a+
5
5c
| 200m, 10 | Berglichopf | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2018 | ||||
6a | ★★ Bimbo - with Jakob | 140m, 10 | Piansecco | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2017 | ||||
5b 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||
5b 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | Mon 21st Oct 2019 | |||||
5c+ 5c | ★★★ Schafbergkante - with Nino | 410m, 10 | Alpstein | Fri 20th Jul 2018 |
Short pitch along a crack. Felt harder than 5b.
Extremely cool V-corner, then left onto a slab, then a little boulder-problem.
Rather easy terrain and a crack.
Traverse left to a little boulder problem, then easy terrain up to the right.
Short athletic boulder problem.
Traverse right onto a flake and then solve the boulder problem to get into the crack that follows up to the next belay. This is the single hardest move on the route.
Fine slab, then old-school-chimney.
One single harder move (bolt).
Unfortunately we were mislead to use the new looking rappel anchors to the right of the route and ultimately the rope got stuck two times. It seems these belong to another route, though? Not sure...
It may be better to abseil along the route - even though the maillons are small and there are ample opportunities for the rope to get stuck too...