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Gold Rush Buttress Guide

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 2

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Daniel Mateos

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Gold Rush Buttress 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Bouldering and Trad climbing

access issues

None

inherited from Baldstones

ethic

No chipping

inherited from Baldstones
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 National Hysteria E5 6b Trad 10m
2 Gold Rush

An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs and exit rapidly up a short crack. Unprotected and harrowing.

E4 5c Trad 10m
3 Goldsitch Crack

The compelling arse is approached steeply from the right and squirmed up with some trepidation.

HVS 4c Trad 12m
4 Baldy

From a low start (feet on the ramp) follow the flake and continue onto the ledge.

6A+ Boulder
5 Baldstone Dyno

A classic dyno to the lip, from here continue onto the ledge.

6B+ Boulder
6 Throwball

Decent holds lead to flatties then a hard dyno.

7A+ Boulder
7 Baldstones Low

A low traverse following a line of small holds just below the original. Finish up Baldy.

7B+ Boulder
8 Mank Muffin

Sit-start on the left-hand side of the corner as for Baldstones Low, move up to the holds for Baldstones Traverse (good left hand) then yard for a jug marked by a minging green streak on the lip. From here if you're a fanatic about doing everything properly, mantel onto the lip, otherwise just match the jug, drop off and have an easy life, the good bit is over.

6B Boulder
9 Baldstones Traverse

Traverse along the line of sloping holds, starting up the arete and finishing up Baldy. A hard alternative finish is up Throwball at f7B.

7A+ Boulder
10 Baldstones Traverse - Throwball Link 7B Boulder
11 Easy Exit

An alternative easier finish to Baldstones Traverse.

6A+ Boulder
12 Crank Cuffin

From the arete use poor holds to reach the top.

7B+/C Boulder
13 Riding the Gravy Train E6 6c Trad 11m
14 Blackbank Crack

Climb the zigzag crack in the right-hand side of the face.

VD Trad 12m
15 Forking Chimney

The chimney is a forking struggle, though worthwhile.

D Trad 10m
16 Bareleg Wall

Climb the groove then make an awkward move rightwards towards a better finish up the wide crack.

VS 4b Trad 10m
17 Morridge Top

The pleasantly technical wall on the far right.

VS 5a Trad 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
D Forking Chimney Trad 10m
VD Blackbank Crack Trad 12m
VS 4b Bareleg Wall Trad 10m
HVS 4c Goldsitch Crack Trad 12m
VS 5a Morridge Top Trad 8m
6A+ Baldy Boulder
Easy Exit Boulder
6B Mank Muffin Boulder
E4 5c Gold Rush Trad 10m
6B+ Baldstone Dyno Boulder
E5 6b National Hysteria Trad 10m
7A+ Baldstones Traverse Boulder
Throwball Boulder
7B Baldstones Traverse - Throwball Link Boulder
E6 6c Riding the Gravy Train Trad 11m
7B+ Baldstones Low Boulder
7B+/C Crank Cuffin Boulder
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