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Split Rock Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Trevor Ayala Philip Warton Charles Cooper AriefNagara Yicel Ramirez oakbri Rob Mokry Mari Garcia

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Split Rock 28 routes in Boulder

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 37.911746, -122.485124

description

A massive 45' tall boulder that's cracked in half (hence the name). This is one of the best places in the Bay Area to take beginners or kids, though the holds on the West Face are quite rounded making for insecure climbing which may baffle those new to the sport - the South Face may be a better introduction for raw beginners.

Bring a solid rack up to 3' and a lot of long slings (or better yet, a second rope), as the protection for the top-rope anchors is a long way back from the edge.

access issues

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

approach

From the parking lot at the end of Taylor Rd the boulder is obvious, straight ahead.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Corner Crack

The corner crack around to the left of the main wall.

5.8 Top rope 35ft
2 Unnamed 1

The nice slab between Corner Crack and Left Arete, staying off both.

5.9 Top rope 35ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Left Arete

The stylish left arete of the main wall.

5.10a Top rope 45ft
4 Unnamed 2

The wall between Left Arete and Left Crack.

5.9 Top rope 45ft
5 Left Crack

The thin leftmost crack / ramp that peters out halfway up.

5.8 Top rope 45ft
6 Center Cracks

The two cracks in the middle of the face that merge up high. Both are equally fun.

5.5 Top rope 45ft
7 Unnamed 3

The wall between Center Crack and Right Crack - jugs on either side are off.

5.10a Top rope 45ft
8 Right Crack

The rightmost crack, with a slabby crux up high.

5.7 Top rope 45ft
9 Unnamed 4

The wall right of Right Crack.

5.8 Top rope 40ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Unnamed 5

The dihedral corner.

5.9 Top rope 40ft
11 Unnamed 6

The bulging wall above the shrubbery, left of south crack.

5.10a Top rope 40ft
12 South Crack

The thin, left leaning crack left of the split.

5.8 Top rope 40ft
13 Left Arete of Split

The arete forming the left side of the split.

5.8 Top rope 40ft
14 Split Chimney

Chimney up the split wherever you like.

5.2 Top rope 35ft

The next four routes are on the left (West) side of the split, described outside-in (left to right). There are more variants than described here.

16 Pinball Wizard

Up the crack then right and up the face.

5.10d Top rope 25ft
17 Pinball Direct

Directly up the face to join Pinball Wizard.

5.11b Top rope 25ft
18 Bobziens' Wall 1

Further into the split are a variety of 5.12ish routes climbed by Russ Bobzien in the 1980s.

5.12a Top rope 25ft
19 Bobzien's Wall 2

Further into the split are a variety of 5.12ish routes climbed by Russ Bobzien in the 1980s.

5.12a Top rope

The next six routes are on the right (East) side of the split, described inside-out (left to right).

21 Face Up and Left

Furthest route inside the split.

5.8 Top rope 25ft
22 Face Up and Right 5.9 Top rope 25ft
23 Face 1 5.10c Top rope 25ft
24 Face 2 5.11a Top rope 25ft
25 Face 3 5.11b Top rope 25ft
26 Face 4

Closest to the outside of the split.

5.10a Top rope 25ft
27 Right Arete of Split

Straight up the arete forming the right side of the split. Some loose rock.

5.9 Top rope 30ft
28 Orange Slab

The lovely orange slab right of the split can be top roped anywhere you like - it's great for little kids and beginners who don't have climbing shoes. Be careful of loose rock, in particular the large "shield" at half height, right of the split.

5.4 Top rope 30ft
29 Loose rock

A large, loose looking shield of rock.

Unknown
30 Split Rock Traverse

Traverse the boulder from Corner Crack to the uphill end of the South Face. Crux is at Unnamed 6 on the South Face.

V4 Boulder 150ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.2 Split Chimney Top rope 35ft
5.4 Orange Slab Top rope 30ft
5.5 Center Cracks Top rope 45ft
5.7 Right Crack Top rope 45ft
5.8 Corner Crack Top rope 35ft
Face Up and Left Top rope 25ft
Left Arete of Split Top rope 40ft
Left Crack Top rope 45ft
South Crack Top rope 40ft
Unnamed 4 Top rope 40ft
5.9 Face Up and Right Top rope 25ft
Right Arete of Split Top rope 30ft
Unnamed 1 Top rope 35ft
Unnamed 2 Top rope 45ft
Unnamed 5 Top rope 40ft
5.10a Face 4 Top rope 25ft
Left Arete Top rope 45ft
Unnamed 3 Top rope 45ft
Unnamed 6 Top rope 40ft
5.10c Face 1 Top rope 25ft
5.10d Pinball Wizard Top rope 25ft
5.11a Face 2 Top rope 25ft
5.11b Face 3 Top rope 25ft
Pinball Direct Top rope 25ft
V4 Split Rock Traverse Boulder 150ft
5.12a Bobzien's Wall 2 Top rope
Bobziens' Wall 1 Top rope 25ft
? Loose rock Unknown
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