Ascents in The Slabs

I have a new understanding of run out.

4.5 hours car to car.

Was a lot scarier then I remembered. We simul-climbed the first three pitches (direct slab on pitch 3) and then climbed the rest in small pitches through the 5.7 variation, under the arche and through the last overlap. We escaped through the finish of beginner's route instead of climbing the last pitch.

few protections,some run-out, a little bit scared for me leading all the way. you need at least 70m rope and trust your climbing shoes! nice route.

Lead all pitches except 3, 6, 9.

Same storm passed over us three times... Still made it to the top dry. We had a few minor incidents on the way up but no problem. Very nice to see that I can lead any of those pitches easily on my camless rack.

Very nice line. Some sketchy parts but mostly due to the water running down flat friction footholds.

Lead all the pitches except 2 & 3.

Was quite wet in places, including the crux moves on pitch 6, making for extra excitement. Still very climbable, though.

Though, the "4th class" on pitch 9 was quite exciting when soaking wet.

Although very easy, this climb is still very fun to do, simply for the adventure and long climb feeling. Perfect to initiate people to trad and multipitch.

Beware of rope drag, though. Bring many long slings.

We actually did two variations to the route; we added a pitch by using the original route in the diedre on the left (superb), and we switched the 7th pitch traverse for the 5.7 slab coming up from Slab Direct I think.

Pitches 0-3 went smoothly; pitch 4 took one rest to figure out route. Didn't like the look of the pitch 5 traverse. Again.

Route is dirty and mossy in places -- doesn't seem like it gets climbed much.

Lead all the pitches. Went quite smoothly, some run-outs, as expected, but nothing that really bothered me. Did pitches 8-10 as a scramble/free solo.

Did the first 4 pitches before lowering off. Pitch 2 has a couple bolts, which greatly reduces the commitment level on this route from how it was, I think, originally ascended.

Got lost on the top pitches! mega runout.

David lead and I seconded the first three pitches without much fuss. Fun started at the fourth pitch. David lead halfway, down climbed cleaning, lead the same half route again before I carried on the lead frictioning up dirty slab to a set of perm' nuts. Push up onto an overlap then up to the bolts. Looked at 5 pitch. Friction traverse, v muddy, v mossy, no visible protection. Rapped down as it started to spit. Got off the cliff as it pissed hard. Adventure!

Got to the top of pitch 4, and looked at the pitch 5 traverse -- lots of moss on the slab, and very little visible protection. Clean rock, and we'd have risked thin protection, or obvious good protection and we'd have risked the moss -- but not the combo. Also, I was pretty sure we could rap on one 70m from there, but not later. After we start rappelling it spit rain, and it dumped just as we finished.

Took one quick rest by grabbing a sling while assessing and before committing to the crux, otherwise a nice clean ascent. This is a nice way to do the Standard Route -- it avoids some of the really bad rope drag of the skipped pitches.

Linked pitches 3 & 4. Skipped the "crux" pitch by doing the 5.7 "Direct Finish" variation. A lot of fun climbing.

This is 5.9 in the Webster guide. First three pitches easy, p4 gets 5.9.

Did 1st 5 pitches

Fun route

Bailed from P5 because of water on route

Only did P2 (5.8 R)

trad

huge slab very fun

Magnificent view

did the first 4 pitches. My first no-pro pitch.