Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Haupt 1 43 | ||||||
7A | ★★ Mut zur Verzweiflung - with Jenny | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The starting crimps are very small. Otherwise climbs fairly straightforwardly and a nice route.
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Haupt 1 17 | ||||||
6C 6A+ | ★★ Toni | ★ Good | ||||
Nice line - sit start variant, interestingly gets 6c in the guide book.
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Haupt 1 13 | ||||||
5B | ★ Mauerblümchen (a) - with Jenny | ★ Good | ||||
Quite nice
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Mitte 17 | ||||||
6B | ★ Doppeldyno - with Jenny | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice but sadly a little short.
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Mitte Linserboulder | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Linserboulder - with Jenny | ★ Good | ||||
Cool line. Will need to come back to put it all together.
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Mitte Schöne Welt | ||||||
6B+ | ★★ Schöne Welt - with Jenny | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice moves through the lower section with a steady top out. Shame it's so short.
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6C+ | Raue Welt - with Jenny | |||||
Bottom section felt nails. couldn't figure it out.
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Magic Wood | ||||||
Mitte Freiwild | ||||||
6B 6C | ★★ Freiwild - with Jenny | ★ Good | ||||
Lower section was easy irritatingly took 3 attempts to figure out the top out.
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Sun 25th Aug 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Neuer Klettergarten | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Mikado - with Jenny | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very good and very dirty .
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5c | ★★ Narziss - with Jenny | 18m | ||||
6a | ★★ Tarzan - with Jenny | 25m | ★ Good | |||
6c | ★★ Marashino - with Jenny | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go really cool moves up onto the slab and good holds
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6b | ★ La vache qui rit - with Jenny | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Niemerstaffel | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Dino Alpino - with Jenny | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool moves right from the start
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7b | ★★ Glurier - with Jenny | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice line. A little sharp at the start then just fun moves to the top
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7a+ | ★ Jodler - with Jenny | ★ Good | ||||
Devious
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6c | ★★ Goldrausch in der Schweiz - with Jenny | |||||
5c+ | ★ Loja - with Jenny | |||||
5b | Hurzler - with Jenny | |||||
Sun 11th Aug 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Alter Klettergarten | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Zupf's | 20m | ||||
6b | ★ Auspuff | 20m | ||||
4c | ★ Moosplatte - with Jenny | 20m | ||||
5c+ | ★★ Geneigter Pfeiler Dächli | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★ Risspur | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Crux is only one move but quite hard to read the sequence. Tried more options than expected and found there’s a hard way and an easy way which is less obvious. Unfortunately it looks like someone has created a chipped foothold.
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5b+ | ★★ Kleiner Überhang - with Jenny, Martina, Pieter | 20m | ||||
5b+ | ★★ Zaff - with Jenny, Martina, Peiter | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Just with right hand then again with minimum moves. Managed 7 hand holds used
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5b | ★★ Bohrhakenüberhang | 20m | ||||
5b | ★ Delago | 20m | ||||
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Alter Klettergarten | ||||||
6b | ★★ Ringboulder | 20m | ||||
6c | ★★ Katalysator | 15m | ||||
5b+ | ★ Gelbe Backsteine | 25m | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Halbschräg | 20m | ||||
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Graue Platte | ||||||
6a+ | A côté | 80m | ||||
6c+ | ★★ It's show time Snoopy | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very hard to read onsight, especially the first mini rooflet
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Wed 17th Jul 2019 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||||||
La Baleine Fronton de mer | ||||||
6a | ★ A tout coeur | ★ Good | ||||
6a | ★★ Le debut de la fin | |||||
Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Hüttenkopf | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Spitting Image | 35m | ||||
The second pitch feels nails. Way harder than expected
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6c+ |
★★ Lichtspiel (Lichtspiel P1)
1
6c+
| 35m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice route
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Sat 13th Jul 2019 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Zelot - Lange Wand | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Meteor | 22m, 7 | ||||
Sat 13th Jul 2019 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Holzer | ||||||
6b | ★★ Wunderfinken | 25m, 6 | ||||
6b | ★★ Top Dog | 20m, 6 | ||||
6b | ★★ Dreizehn | 20m, 7 | ||||
Sat 13th Jul 2019 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Piazza Grande | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Piazza Grande | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 9th Jul 2019 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Gimmelwald Fussball | ||||||
6c | ★★ Chicken head | 25m | ★ Good | |||
7b+ | ★★ Senegeil | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Delicate lower section followed by powerful couple of moves to turn the lip
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6a | ★★ Fähndlimaa | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Kind of fun
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5a | Die Sau die | 25m | Average | |||
Mon 8th Jul 2019 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Gimmelwald Fussball | ||||||
7a | ★ Ballone | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly awkward crux on thin holds might be easier with trousers and a knee bar
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Wed 3rd Jul 2019 - Sustenbrüggli | ||||||
D | ||||||
4b | ★ Pokeclon - with Jenny, michi, merieka, Michi, Mareika, Neva | 25m | ||||
In mountain boots.
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4a | ★ Glusak - with Jenny, michi, merieka, Michi, Mareika, Neva | 25m | ||||
In mountain boots.
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4b | ★ Topraider - with Jenny, michi, merieka, Michi, Mareika, Neva | 25m | ||||
In mountain boots.
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4c | Laraschaft - with Jenny, michi, merieka, Michi, Mareika, Neva | 25m | ||||
In mountain boots.
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6b | ★★ Jgoria Ramelli - with Jenny, michi, merieka, Michi, Mareika, Neva | 25m | ||||
Reasonable, feels somewhat escapable which is sad.
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5c | ★★ Geissepeter - with Jenny, michi, merieka, Michi, Mareika, Neva | 25m | ||||
Some good moves at the start and finish.
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Sustenpass | ||||||
Hell | ||||||
6b | ★★ Variante | |||||
Fun. Can be made as harder by sticking to a direct line and only using holds on the route. Suspect the original in the book wanders somewhat.
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6a | ★ Eisenfresser | |||||
Good holds. All of the moves are slightly off balance which is good practice. Nice.
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6a+ | Gummihals | 15m | ||||
6a+ | JGF | 18m | ||||
The start is the trickiest part. Took a couple of attempts to figure out the right approach!
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5b | ★★ schwangere Lotti | 15m | ||||
Not bad. Use the lower-off above the first ledge rather than the single old ring at the top of the climb proper
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5a | ★ Keusche Vroni (Keusche Vorne) | |||||
Mellow warmup route
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5c | ★ Route Soleil | 40m | ||||
Longer mellow warmup route
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Sat 22nd Jun 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Grenchenberg Dream Land | ||||||
6a | ★★ Destin - with Jenny | 16m | ||||
Surprisingly difficult climbing on good rock until the very last holds. Most of the moves feel off balance and require good movement and good footwork. Was a nice climb after an epic 5hr hike to find the crag (but we found some more potential!).
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6a+ | ★★ Choucas - with Jenny | 16m | ||||
Good moves on good rock. The crux appears to be some long reaches around mid height.
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Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Santelhöchi Vagabund | ||||||
4c+ | Ortofox - with Jenny | 10m | Crap | |||
You can find a way to use some gratuitous jamming. Otherwise not really worth climbing. Lots of loose rock ready to come down.
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Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Santelhöchi Schlangenpfeiler | ||||||
6b | ★★ Traumsequenz | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route with three distinct cruxes and some chilled flowing climbing between. The second crux especially is quite technical and involves fun moves. The other two stiffer sections are just more powerful.
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5c+ | ★ Feuchter Traum | 15m | Average | |||
Ok as a warmup. not the best.
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Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Santelhöchi Totentanz | ||||||
7b+ | ★ Death Valley | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good technical climbing. Mid section was made harder by wet, muddy streak but it still goes. Final moves to the chains were surprisingly difficult on an ok hold but pretty bad feet.
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Mon 10th Jun 2019 - Cormot | ||||||
Faille Pourrie | ||||||
3c 4c | ★★ Faille Pourrie - with Samira | 30m | Crap | |||
Put up rope for Samira. Pretty dire route but fun for an 8yr old. Avoid
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Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Hautepierre | ||||||
Dalle du haut & la Croix | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mélanie Jolie - with Jenny, Danny | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean second go. Climbs in three sections with good rests between each. Good moves on solid rock, worth doing. Has a spicy finish on less than ideally positive holds. Much easier when you know they are actually there!
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5c | Pillier cassé - with Jenny, Danny | 16m | Average | |||
6a+ | ★★ Le pied Velu - with Jenny, Danny | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb from the start with several interesting more technical sections. Requires some creativity and good footwork.
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Thu 30th May 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Alter Klettergarten | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Optische Täuschung - with Jenny, Danny, Forest, Nathalie, Samira | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly good route. Some really good moves with a nice crux. Not entirely trivial to onsight as many moves climb differently than as read from the ground and some more / different holds than they initially appear. I suspect it's often skipped as in a slight depression but well worth climbing.
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7a | ★ Projekt - with Jenny, Danny, Forest, Nathalie, Samira | 15m | ★ Good | |||
There appear to be several routes here so not clear if this is still a project. the labelled route on the rock says 7a which is soft but reasonable. Interesting crux sequence and on nice rock. Made more difficult by some very wet holds. Went second go.
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6a | ★ Rivella - with Jenny, Danny, Forest, Nathalie, Samira | 20m | Average | |||
Probably easier than the grade in the book. Fun as a straightforward warmup.
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5b | ★ Sunntigs Türli - with Jenny, Danny, Forest, Nathalie, Samira | 20m | Average | |||
OK I guess
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Sun 26th May 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Westpfeiler | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★ Bella Italia - with jenny | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice movement, climbs very well with lots of good flowing sections. Nice and continuous at the grade which make if fun. Recommended.
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5c+ | Gott gebe, dass es hebe - with jenny | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Er, wouldn’t bother even as a warm up.
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6c+ | Boulder 1 | 20m | ||||
Kind of fun but only one vaguely awkward move but straightforward. The rest is very easy.
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Sun 26th May 2019 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Klus - Balsthal Alter Klettergarten | ||||||
7b+ | Alea jacta - with jenny | 15m | ||||
All of the moves work except for one very wet and very slippery hold around the crux. Looking forward to finishing it when the key hand and footholds are not slimey
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5b+ | ★★ Zaff - with jenny | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Jenny lead it. Not too bad as a route. Some fun variations to be had.
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Cresciano | ||||||
Filo a Sbalzo Masso 5 | ||||||
7A | ★★ Pixel | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Cresciano | ||||||
Artisti Tristi Masso 3 | ||||||
7A+ | ★★★ Carlo il magnifico | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Cresciano | ||||||
Artisti Tristi Masso 2 | ||||||
6B+ | ★ Fisherman's friends | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Galerie | ||||||
Gorubi | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Seitensprung | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★ Mäx | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5b+ 6a | ★★ Wurzelsepp | 13m | ||||
5b | ★★ Gartenzwerg | 13m | ||||
5a 5c | ★★ Amica Christina | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 27th May 2018 - Haslital | ||||||
Beretli Strasse | ||||||
5c | Verschneidung | |||||
6a | ★ Häb di fest | |||||
6a+ | Paradiesvogel | |||||
6a | Locker Fox | |||||
5a | ★★ Riss | |||||
6c | ★ Baumnuss | 10m, 4 | ||||
6c | ★ Dächli Links | |||||
Sun 22nd Apr 2018 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Zelot - Lange Wand | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Gugus | 18m, 5 | ||||
Seemed hard for the grade. Must have missed something. Slightly loose top out.
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Sun 22nd Apr 2018 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Piazza Grande | ||||||
5b+ 6a | ★ La bête (La bete) | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
6a+ 6c | ★ Kanal Fatal | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 24th Oct 2017 - Chironico | ||||||
Matusalem Blocco 35 | ||||||
5 6A | ★★ Galileo bis (6A) | 3m | ||||
6A 5 | ★★ 6A (Galileo bis) | 3m |