Nodo |
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Repubblika ta’ Malta
Malta has about 700 sport routes, and 1500 trad routes. The majority are seldom climbed and don't suffer 'polishing'. There are many deep water solo and sea cliff traversing routes. |
Gozo
The smaller sister island of Malta, Gozo, differs in many ways from the main island. The climbing, however, is just as spectacular, from stunning sea cliffs to shady inland crags, all in perfect limestone. |
Gozo |
Wied il-Mielaħ
video from area: https://youtu.be/I4KrQwWUjnc?t=342 |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ |
Wied il-Mielaħ Arch
The outer pillar of the prominent arch, with routes on the north and east faces. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ Wied il-Mielaħ Arch |
East side of the arch |
5c+
★★★ Thirty Minutes to Sunset
Exposed southeast edge, beginning at a hanging belay a few bolts below the east ledge. Can be accessed by belaying further from the top belay bolts; down-climbing is sketchy but also doable. |
5a
★ Little Knobbles
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
3+
★ Flat Calm
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4+
Gone Left
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
3+
★★ Gozo Gozo Gone
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
North side of the arch |
5a
What a Mess
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
Missing Two
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
Manic Duck Returns
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
West side of the arch |
6b
Shipping Bollards
On the west face. |
6c
Ledge With a View
On the west face. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ |
West side
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ West side |
3
Sharp Shooter
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
Razor's Edge
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
Gillette
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
AWAC
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a
★ Tutoring Madness
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
Mist
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
First Time for Everything
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
★★ Little Stinker
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5a
★★ Outfall
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a
★★★ Outer Zone
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ |
The Cauldron & Upstream Boulder
Domed area upstream of the rock arch. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ The Cauldron & Upstream Boulder |
5c+
Re-decorate Your Face
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
★★ Toil and Bubble
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
8a
★★★ Hore Hound
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c+
★ Mistress of Evil
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c
Bat's Wing
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a+
Newt Eye
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c+
Broom Rider
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a
Desperate Witch
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7c
Lizard Gizzard
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
8a
Vapours of the Bubble
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ |
East Side
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ East Side |
5a
The One we Forgot
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a
★★ Foaming at the Mouth
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
Wave Rider
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
Waterfall
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4+
★★ Salt Pools
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
★★ Wasps
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
Rusty Rail
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
3
Pixy Rock
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ |
Spunky Arête / Cave Area
The north and west faces (Spunky Arête / Cave Area just outside the ravine, on the east. Spunky Arête is left of the edge, on the north; Cave Area is further right, facing west, just opposite of the Arch sector's east face. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ Spunky Arête / Cave Area |
8a
More Spunky Still
Belay point (same as for Spunky Arête) is to be reached by traversing to the left from Micro City. |
6c
★★★ Spunky Arête
Belay point is to be reached by traversing to the left from Micro City. Keeping right of the bolt line makes it a 6b+. |
6a
★★ Micro City
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
★ Arête Relief
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
★ Jayes Ways
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5b
Razor Fish
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4+
Fisherman's Friend
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4+
Come up Roses
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
Splash Zone
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ |
The Boulder
The big boulder in the middle. |
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ The Boulder |
1
Stoned Mexican
Climb up the rock from standing position, good foothold down below. |
Gozo |
Mġarr ix-Xini
video from area: https://youtu.be/I4KrQwWUjnc?t=746 |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini |
White Walls
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini White Walls |
6c
White Wizard
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
Vicious Circle
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
Futile Gesture
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini |
Italian Walls
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Italian Walls |
6a
★★ Frantic Desolation
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a
★ Volanti
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c
★ Chianti
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6a+
Three Legged Man
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6b+
★★ TBC1
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a
★★★ TBC 2
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a+
★★ TBC 3
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
HS 4a
The Idler
The short wall left of the massive fallen block. Up the wall then up the arete/ramp, moving diagonally right. |
5b
★ No Problem
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
VS 4b
Kerb Crawler
Pull on to the short wall above and right of the archway. Move left up the ramp to a large ledge with a cut block propped against the wall. Up the short wall above |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini |
Taurus Wall
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall |
VD
Simon's Slab
The grey wall right of a corner. Up to a detached boulder. |
VS 4c
Easter Parade
The grey wall, finishing over two large flakes |
E1 5b
★★★ Biċċa Kejk (Piece of Cake)
Climb the weird pillar and exit above the left hand stalagtite or direct finish at 6a |
E2 5b
Tales of Ordinary Madness
Up the same weird pillar, exiting above the right hand stalagtite. |
HVS 5a
★ Noni
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E1 5b
Taurus
Bulges directly below the split grey roof, avoiding the last bulge by stepping right and then back left. Jugs on the left wall help you past the overhanging wide crack. |
VS 4b
Pisces 2
The orange grey border to a traverse and up the column beyond. |
HVS 4b
Capricorn
The black wall just right of the orange, passing a faint leftward crack. |
E3 5c
Vegemite
Start at the left hand edge of the cave with numerous stalagtites. Trend left, then straight up past pockets and bulges |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini |
The Nose
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini The Nose |
6c
Flying Pickit
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a+
Gozothon
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7a+
The Naked nose
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
7b
Sid Snot
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E4 5c
Charles Aznavour
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
6c
★★★ The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
Pockets, tufa, slab |
E1 5a
Flying High
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
5c+
★★ Fying Dutchman
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
E1 5c
Chiara Bella
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini |
Flakeout Walls
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Flakeout Walls |
4
★★ Broken Gun
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4
★★ French Lace
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
4+
★★ VPL
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |