Nodi in Malta

Traverse right to a narrow ledge with finger jugs on. Climb up and left to gain a good 2 finger pocket. Continue direct on tint edges to gain better pockets and a significant easing of standard.

From the sea level ledge, traverse right to juggy ground on the arete, start here. Climb up and left to a scoop. Step right out of this and follow the slb to the top. Nice rock.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Wied Znuber is a small valley near Ghar  Hassan in the limits of  Hal Far. The entry to the valley is behind a car barrier at (35.809884, 14.512240). Park along the road, walk past the car barrier and continue on footpaths going down to the valley. There are stairs cut into the stone. . . the challenge is finding where they start!

Climbs at Wied Znuber average 15m in height and grades are in the range of HVS with the occasional E2/E3 and a few boulder problems.

Most of the rock has good friction but is also quite sharp. Some climbs pass through sections of loose rock. In keeping with the British trad ethic these sections haven’t been cleaned out. There are no bolts on these routes with the exception of three rusty old pegs probably placed by the British military.

Locals tend to fish and hike in this valley but they don’t mind crazy people looking for pain and adrenaline in their free time! The valley is ideal for climbing in Summer, not only because of the beautiful blue sea calling out for a swim, but also because there is always some part of the valley which is in the shade.

Start climbing on loose rock up until you reach a ledge a third of the way up. Pro- tection is useless up to this point. Continue on the overhang diagonally to the right up until you reach a resting position in a hole about two thirds of the way up. Climb right, out of the hole. There are a couple of good slings as protection, however placing them will drain your energy.

Climb up to a thin crack veering to the left. Follow its general direction through a sparse collection of good holds before exiting up.

Starts off easy up to an overhanging crack. Continues along the crack line to a good handle over the ledge. The original ascent was graded E1 5A but due to new found great protection it was downgraded to HVS.

Follow the vertical crack line up to a rusty peg, shift to the vertical crack line on the left and continue up.

Climb up to the flake to find a rusty sur- prise behind it. Continue to a good jug and straight to the top.

You have to put up a fight with the vege- tation for this route. Climb up to a corner midway up and continue on its right. Fin- ishes on a comfortable ledge.

A simple straightforward climb. . . straight up!

Start at the left side of the dent in the rock face and climb straight up.

Has a badly protected start but continues smoothly up.

The climb is poorly protected. Climb up to a sling about half way up the route and continue slightly to the right to access a good sling protection on the right of the right black streak. Move back to the left for the exit.

Climb up to a small roof over which you will find a rest. Continue up through a series of good pockets

The start is usually damp but continues easily following the crack line. Heavily vegetated.

A very physical overhang climb following an “obvious” line of holds.

A straightforward climb. Well protected all the way up.

Climb to a small corner, over a small bulge and continue straight up.

Climb from a corner at the bottom of the valley to a good ledge. Continue up a small overhang and then straight up.

A scarcely protected start but has nice finger holds throughout. Follows a left facing crack line from the middle of the climb.

Climb up to the right facing crack line and continue along it for most of the way up. Protection is not too abundant or satisfyingly solid.

Facing the sea, swim to the left around the far corner, there you will find an accessible ledge from where the route starts. Climb the more difficult but safer outer part of arete and continue traversing over the roof. The route has no obvious ending, hence the name. S0 (E1 5a)

Continue swimming bit further to the left. Find a small ledge at the base of the climb to help you get onto the sharp rock. Climb up to the crack under the roof and traverse along it. At the end you can opt to take a rest along the dotted line. It is possible to stand hands free facing the water. Continue up through the crack in the roof and exit out to the right. There you will find a sort of a ledge from where to jump. This is possibly the most beautiful route of the bunch.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

P1 - Ascend through the weakness in the overhangs. Climb the slab above aiming for its top left side.

P2 - Up the centre of the steeper slab above. Continue up with difficulty to a narrow ledge (a hanging plaque commemorates the 1st and 2nd ascents). Sign the guest book!

P3 - Continue up the exposed slab with good moves and exposure to the top.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Furthest left hand route

Line of ring bolts 3m right of RRR. Super climbing, past a couple of bulges, with awesome features along the way.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Crag classic! Straight through series of tufas and other varied holds, to some unfortunately sharp holds over the top at the anchor.

2m right of CO. Up past cool features to ledge, then out roof to anchor.

Start 3m right. Up to ledge, then left through roof to shared anchor with NSOTL.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Left hand route on the little wall opposite the previous routes.

2m right of Revolver.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

1 - 50m 5a. Climb the shallow groove just right of the overhangs. At the black bulge step left then traverse left across black slabs to solid, curvy rock on the arete. Up this sensationally for 10m. Step left around the arete with your hands level with a shelf. Once round step back right to the arete above. Avoid the bulge by another step left. Up sharp grey slabs to a ledge. 2 - 20m 4a. Up easy grey slabs to the terrace above Pilar Box Descent

A direct on The Division Bell. Takes the steep crack directly above the black slabs. Nuts about Rock 7 size are crucial

Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole.

50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush.

20m 4a. Up easy slabs above

Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack.

7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds.

20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay.

40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow.

20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent!

A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?.

1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge.

2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left.

3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge.

Starts 35m along a shelf to the right of the buttress edge with a window in below a slabby wall and just right of a grassy ledge.

1 - 20m 5a. Up the easy grey slab, then take the short steeper wall up left to a narrow ledge and the 2 piton belay on WYWH.

2 - 32m 5a. Skirt to the right of the bulging wall keeping just left of the vegetation until moves up and right gain a vegetated alcove below a small roof. Threads left and right. Move right above the roff then back left on black rock (spike runners), until below a blind crack and fault leading diagonally left. Follow this and the wall above keeping right of a short vegetated corner. Step left to a stance at the top of the pillar above the prow.

3 - 20m 4b. Diagonally right up slabs to (threads) above the ledge.

The exit for Continuation WallLow Level and Central Traverses. It is an adventure more than a climb! Can also be used as a descent - fishermen have been doing it for centuries! Start at the large platform below Bamboo Ledge

1 - 4a. Walk righ to Pillar Box Cave Slab, up this for 10m to Bamboo Ledge.

2 - 4c. Cross PBC Slab, go up and right to a steel bollard and a broken easy ramp leading right to the vegetated bay of PBC.

3 - 4a. Walk into and up the floor and back narrows of the cave, scramble up the righthand wall and through the pillar-box.

4 - 4a. Follow cut holds up the prow, left of the small terrace.

video from location: https://youtu.be/XPK4-aKe81k?t=464

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

The leftmost route starts on the big flake and then becomes easier (some walking in the middle).Two cruxes, low and high

Same start as Double Trouble, but after the lower part moves slightly right and on to an easy but enjoyable finish

Starts from the evident roof down below, with an athletic 6a move out of the cave, then easy scramble into a second overhang (less pronounced) on the right, into the lip of the cave and then continues up the third overhang.

Furthest left route, outside the cave.

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Up TDSE, then left to separate anchor.

Start in back left of cave. Up, then right and all the way through the roof, passing the wafers to anchor at the lip. Must do!