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Nodi in Malta

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Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi Vine Cave
6b Turn 84

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6c+ Cave Dwelling

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7a Vine Cave

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

5b Strimmer on the Back

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6a Stephan the Black

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b Who Knows

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7a Saturday Night Live

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6a Fig in the Arse

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

5b Bamboosled

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi
Bamboo Jungle

The easier routes, i.e. "Bamboo" "Jungle" "Fly on the wall" "Ants Nest" "Solo Bolt" might be overgrown in various degrees with thorns, at least at the first few meters.

Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi Bamboo Jungle
5a Bamboo Shooter

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

5a Bamboo Shoot

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4 Mary Poppins

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b Rock DJ

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b+ Braid Eight

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4 Bamboo

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4 Jungle

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4 Fly on the wall

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

3 Ants Nest

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

3 Solo Bolt

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6a+ Birds Nest

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6c+ Hip Lock

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7b Creeper

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6c+ Fly Away

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Gozo
Black Slabs

Some route numbers are engraved into the rock.

Gozo Black Slabs
3+ Larry

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4 Curly

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

3+ Moe

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6c+ Star Ride

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b Le Tactic du Gendarme

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

8a Niminy Pimminy

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7c My Bush is on Fire

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b Queenie

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7a George Bush

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b+ Clarksville

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b Baldrick

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b Black Adler

Increasingly hard. Technical on the upper slab.

4+ You don't know what you have

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4+ Graveey Granules

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

4 Dust Bowl

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

5c Snake Skin

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6a Little Green Tuft

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7a+ Bush Less

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7a Brazilian Wax

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

7a+ Cassiopaea

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6c Grass on the Green

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

6b+ Landing Strip

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Gozo
The Underworld

One of the most adventurous and intimidating sea cliff crags in the Maltese Islands. Climbs follow steep lines and grooves at the mouth of a huge cave that penetrates deep into the cliff.

Gozo The Underworld
8b Satan‘s Love Child

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

8b+ King of Kings

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

8a Sexy Swedish

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

7c Cruella the Cruel

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

7c+ Sarcastic Sarcophagus

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

7b+ Super Furry Animals

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

7b Vampire Lats

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

7a Dead Kennedy

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

6b Gift of Small Things

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

6b+ I luv Elvis

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

6a Styx and Stowners

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

6a+ Jasal

The easy routes in this section are the only escape! If If in any doubt about your ability to climb a sustained 6a route then leave the abseil rope in place!

Comino

The smallest island of the Maltese archipelago offers various trad climbing possibilities in gorgeous surroundings.

Comino
Il-Mistika Cave

A seaside cave in the southeast of the island with a massive pillar in the middle.

Comino Il-Mistika Cave
E3 5c Raiders of the Lost Aardvark

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Malta

The main island of the Maltese archipelago

Malta
Għar Ħasan

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Malta Għar Ħasan
Għar Ħasan Promontory

These 2 routes are on either side of a short rocky promontory about 70m westwards along the coastline from the Għar Ħasan Cave.

Malta Għar Ħasan Għar Ħasan Promontory
HVS 5a A Thing of Beauty

Clip in runners as you descend the lower section. 1st pitch on pockets veering leftwards and over the arete/bulge keeping to the left of the crack. 2nd pitch - straight up the crack into chimney ending. Can be climbed in 1 pitch.

HVS 5a Lords of the Rising Sun

Start from the ledge inside the chimney. Up the back for about 4m, move on to the right wall and make a slight traverse towards the sea until the middle of the wall. Go up and left above the chimney to a wedged boulder then vegetation to a ledge. Up the groove/crack to the top. Slings useful.

Malta Għar Ħasan
Wied Ħasan Bouldering

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Bouldering
V0- Walk Unafraid

The wall just left of the scrappy corner

V0- Curl Up and Die

The scrappy corner

V2 Cuts Both Ways

The diagonal crack through the overhang just right.

V3 Mad Hackers

The overhang just right past the heart-shaped scoop.

V0+ Wagner's Ring

Start at the same point as Mad Hackers, move diagonally right past roof hole.

V0- Daysleeper

Diagonal roof crack just right of the roof hole

V0 REM

Climb the righthand end of a low bulge. A long reach for good horizontal holds

V0 Careless Whispers

The vertical crack 2m right on flat holds.

V3 The Apologist

Just left of the big cave is a diagonal crack with a sloping finish.

V4 Love Path

Half a metre right of the crack. Start using a mono with the right.

V4 Darklight

One and a half metres right of the crack. Start using the 90* flake and two-finger pocket with the right.

V3 Dragonflight

From the slot move left to black flowstone then a hand traverse line left to the undercut prow, up this.

V2 Pointbreak

Using the slot for the right, gain the black flowstone with the left and then the good flat hold above. Continue up.

V2 Pointfive

The easiest combination, from the slot with your right gain the flat hold direct with your left. Push for a jug high right. Slap up left.

V2 Falls to Climb

Get the high jug via moves to the right of the slot

V2 The Leopard

Using hidden holds in a horizontal break. Dyno to a good jug up and left.

V0 Firehouse

The overhang breached by two superb cracks. This is the left hand.

V1 Up

Through the roof ion the centre.

V0+ Oddfellows

The right hand crack

Malta Għar Ħasan
Wied Ħasan Seacliffs

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Seacliffs
6c+ S3 Dead End

Follow Swinger to before the 'brilliant' traverse. Step down and continue at sea level past a sea-washed section. Continue easily until a steeper section leads onto a narrow wall betwixt roofs and the sea. Follow this to cracks. Swim back or continue up loose, dirty cracks to a cave.

7b S0 Silent Warrior

The best DWS in the area featuring a 4m roof and a very steep wall, relatively safe as a solo. Start at the sea-washed ledges. Cross the large roof 3m up trending right. Continue up the steep ground going rightwards to the finish of Swinger. Superb and pumpy.

7a S1 Swinger

Continue traversing until easy ground leads to a cave. Continue out of the left side along a slightly rising line. A swing out on sloping ledges gains a brilliant traverse along the lip of an overhang. Follow this for 5m until it eases. Move up and climb diagonally right on pockets to gain easier rock.

6b+ S1 Pumpy

Follow Lefty for a few moves. Up and left for 1 or 2m. Go horizontally left along the lip of the roof then along a pockety orange wall. Continue to where it eases. Quite pumpy.

6b S1 Lefty

Traverse left to just short of the large cave. Climb up and left via the easiest line to the top.

7b S1 Helmet

From the little cave, move left and pull through the overhang at its narrowest point. Step right onto the start of a diagonal flake. Step left to easier ground where the rock changes character to bubblierrock. Up this.

7a+ S1 Hardon

Traverse a little further left to a little cave you can crouch in. Step right and up the vague left arete of the groove on Waddy using pockets. Over the bulge to a large, friendly, diagonal flake. Climb this for a move, continue direct on pockets. Hard moves past a sloper lead to improving pockets and the top

6b+ S0 Waddy

Round and left of the left arete of the narrow wall, climb the overhanging groove to its top and exit right. Step back left and climb the less steep and escapable shallow groove.

5c+ S0 Upstart

Left arete of the narrow wall, gained by a traverse 3m up

5c S0 Kurty

The centre of the narrow wall

7a S0 Nemo

The right arete of the narrow wall on your left. Nice but silly as its easier on the other side after a while

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