Ascensioni in Oceania da Ben Vincent che possiede trad-cpr o ascent-date

FFA. I’ll always remember the first time Skippy and I stood beneath this grand granite roof staring up dumbstruck at the splitter crack that runs through the heart of it. From that moment on it became somewhat of an obsession. Armed with honed beta, extra chinnies and an anticipated cool southerly change, I finally got up it clean on my very last attempt before the rain arrived and a planned leave of absence set in. This one was a team effort. Massive fist pumps to fellow roof crack froth-dogs, Skippy and Benji. May both of you always ‘just gonna send it’.

As hard and as sharp as nails. I thought I’d get back into it pretty quickly but turns out I had to relearn the beta…it was coming back to me by the end. Good to get gear placements sorted.

a little less clean than it's little sibling below, but high quality and very unique! Great to get up the pair on a tight timeframe!

Rolled in late feeling flat but summoned the courage to get back on this. First attempt went way smoother than last week but I ended up dripping blood on Alec and taking a mini whipper at the crux. Regrouped, retaped and tried again and somehow managed to sort the beta out enroute and get through the crux section by the finest of margins. It was all only just in the end and definitely one of my more memorable sends. Right up there with the best routes in Ebor.

A very nice, high quality line! After a long hiatus I was fortunate enough to milk the rest and find some endurance.

Felt much smoother than my previous session but ended up being the gnarliest of fights. I got super close on my first burn and, leaving nothing in the tank, was pretty fortunate to pull through on my second shot. One of my most favourite/memorable routes at Ebor.

FFA. It's because of routes like this why I love trad. What a bunch of frothy sickness! Had such a good time on this route. It has a bit of everything, laybacks, jams, a roof, and and off width to boot! Felt better at the top than my last attempt. Take medium to large and extra large cams and plenty of slings to avoid rope drag. Thanks for the catch and the psych Skippy!

Intended to do Watchtower Crack and then thought we’d step it up a notch for our last and decided on Skink. A bit of traffic on P1 and a recommendation from a local and we started up Auto Da Fe instead. It totally delivered. I hadn’t needed to place many small wires on our trip. This route changed that. We almost bailed up Golum before even starting P2 but then the local reappeared and decided to watch us on the crux while he ate lunch and so that sealed our fate (plus I have no idea where Golum even went). The crux was a delicate and beautiful thing. I really enjoyed this section. A little committing but pro where you need it.

Amazeballs. We had a great party for this one. Met Will, Jose and Winnie that morning and teamed up to tackle the route together and take some glory shots! Short and all over pretty quickly but totally lived up to the hype! A bit of drizzle added to the atmosphere and made the crux a little more interesting.

Absolute class. This is a great line. Committing start but it’s all there. Some pads would be good

A bit of everything on this route including a big bucket for a little sit down. Great climbing and a very memorable route.

Ermagerd. Deliverance Delivers. This the first route at the breakaway is a stunner. With cold fingers and flash pump I had to work hard for this one. Really great route and good sesh on it with Benj and Skippy.

Lowered in with plenty of gear so thought I should use it. Nice features. Surely been done before.

This route is freakin awesome! such good climbing and probably my favourite at the grade/style at Gara. Not sure why but upon rapping in and cleaning up a few holds (possibly hasn't been climbed in over 25 years?) we thought that this might be pretty straight forward. Not so. Was going okay until I blew the onsight by breaking off a hold. Had a few rests after that working some of the more committing moves. Had a second go on top rope and was stoked to get it clean. I'd love to get back on this and lead it clean from the ground up. Get on it, Gara classic!

Had a bit of trouble finding the start (would've helped if I'd read the description properly) :-P From the two belayer/anchor carrots follow 3 carrots up the slabby scoop to the R (there is great potential further to the left for better slab). Cool moves through the overlap and L bring you to the base of the next slab which is thin and cruxy and gets the grade I guess. Two more carrots here up the slabby arete. The crack at the top is beautiful and eats up red (#1), yellow (#2) and Blue (#3) BD cams.

Thought we'd jump on a sporty looking grade 20 trad route and it didn't dissapoint.

Been wanting to try this gem for a long time. Was dissapointed to see the nearby waterfall blowing horizontally onto and drenching the route. But then Volo got on it anyway and said it was great so I was inspired. Incredible route with the experience made all the more richer by the wet, windy conditions. Full focus and extra grunt required. Trad fix aquired.

Possibly did an alternate start to the original/more obvious line, but who would know (Lattanzio I guess). A little tricky to protect but worth the effort.

Sick moves at the start. Jams are quite sharp, but to be expected I guess

Such a sick start. Worming, knee bars, a bit of grovelling. Great climb for the first 10m. Kinda winds down after that. Felt a little easier than the grade suggests.

Very nice. A tough warm up though. Not a 14 Skip

Such a great test piece. Always lets me know where my trad head is at. Had to work hard to gain the rest under the roof but calmed down after that and then cruised the lip of the roof which was a pleasant surprise.

Wow. Deliverance certainly can't produce two spectacularly good routes right next to each other can it...? Aparently so. Sick find Skippy! Got it clean on TR, then followed up with a clean lead on gear which Skippy reckons took me close to an hour...(surely not?!). A delicate techy start complete with an unsuspecting wild finish.

A burly finish, but def all there once you sort the beta.

Just enough time to squeeze in this absolute bottler of a route. I expected it to really ramp up but it was fairly consistent. This sort of stuff puts a smile on your face for days.

An absolute brute of a battle getting aquainted with this line. I certainly drew some blood.

Was a little intimidated about getting on this one but so stoked that we did. P1 - lead (clean). Best pitch I've done at Kaputar to date. Nice sporty slab to warm into the route, pro gets a little spaced above. The upper section and traverse are committing, exposed, gripping and memorable! Some damp holds at the end of the T added some extra spice. Added a cordelette to what looks like a historical collection at the first anchor. P2 and P3 - second (clean). A little bit of an anticlimax after P1. Nice lead by Caz up crack and straight through obvious goey line in buldge (which was also wet). With 60m twins Caz decided to link the last two P’s, finishing up an interesting techy little slab split by a finger crack.

Not having to worry about tricky gear placements and belaying and watching Benji work the crux moves no doubt went a long way...

A beautiful thing. An Ebor classic.

Great technical face climbing with awesome features. Felt more like a 24 to me.

Juicy. Really cool sequence, jugs everywhere and then a big left leap of faith which once stuck is definitely the highlight.

Had a fall before giving it another go. Second attempt was better. Great climbing and a very burly finish. Classic!

Really enjoyed this route. Good pro, great holds, sweet moves!

A solid warm-up, sparse up top but its all there.

Quality

Perhaps unsurprisingly this is a pure crimp fest! The start of the climb is quite fun before the vertical section starts. Made a few links through the cruxy very static crimpy section directly above the horizontal break. The top half is a little smoother - not sure it would be after linking what lies beneath. And then there's the view! What an awesome route!

Was great to get back on this route with Ricardo after nearly a year between visits.

What a day out. A late arival to camp had us at the base of FOTP by 10am. In hindsight the route is quite obvious. At the time, however, it was not. Traversed way too far left on P1 and belayed at the big obvious shrub below the corner with two pitons (probably SJ). This meant that we probably didn't even do FOTP P2 but wandered up past said pitons on some other route (probably SJ) and way over and above the P2 belay ledge. I wandered about in circles on the slab 20m above and L of the wing for an age and found a small belay ledge for some other route with an old rusty hex and a sling (likely LD). Down climbed to retrieve my sparse pro before using the corner of SJ do get back onto the ramp and finally located the tat down the R-hand end of the ramp - pretty obvious in hindsight. We probably didn't rap far enough on P3, but found some good med cam placements behind a large hanging block. P4 was great with good exposure. In fading light I took P5 too far up and R and clearly missed the orange rock swinging L. That meant P6 started below some hanging blocks but we spied the nose before sunset and knew where to finish. We got back on route in the dark halfway through this pitch and really enjoyed it and P7. Got back to Balor at 11:30pm and it was all totally worth it - 15.5 hours hut to hut, what a pair of Bungle newbs ;-)

a great route

Great route! Eats small stuff. Loved the buldge!

A good line with interesting moves. Not the pick of the lines available, but not a bad one either and we were so excited that we just had to get started on something and so this was it.

Wow what a great route. Everything flowed and I even got to finally use my #6

Ha! Thought we were on Plume... Traversed L beneath the roof into Thor and finished the second half of Thor. Thought it was a bit staunch for a 16...

A classic route in a stunning setting. completely spoilt for our first Tassie climbing experience.

A fun route, with everything where you need it!

A very inspiring climb. This route has it all, and yes, pro just when you need it. The first pitch is sustained and absolutely golden. The second pitch is enjoyable climbing and allows you a bit of recovery from the first. Richard just cruised up the bloody route a silly amount of years after he did the first ascent.

A desperate fight indeed. A really nice line despite the Lomandra sabotage... Maybe grade 20?