Vie in Oceania del grado selezionato

The long clean right-facing corner hand and fist crack with a small roof halfway. Classic, sustained and very well protected. Abseil to the anchors on Sunset Ledge.

Leftmost finger to hand crack on the wall. User anchors as for Benny’s Magical Koura Circus.

Climbs the narrowing crack from the waterline to the top, starting at fists, then narrows to fingers with a tricky layback for the crux.

A pumpy start leads to easier climbing up the dihedral. Decent gear, a single rack of cams and a good selection of nuts is sufficient.

Start right hand in high crack, left hand on low side pull. Move up, traverse right and mantle

Line in the middle of the face. Easy climbing leads to a tricky section between the third and fourth bolt.

"Enlightened"

An old, forgotten route, established around 1990. It now sees the light again, and should be much more popular with its modern hardware. Old-school style cruxes reward technique over brute strength.

Climbs the arete (left of Holiday Mode), with massive jugs up to the 1st bolt, then has small moves on small holds with an easy finish, traversing left to the top.

Retro-bolted in September 2021. Pitons and naked bolts upgraded with glued in rod & hangers. Shares the anchor with the trad & sport route to the left (now upgraded with a ring hanger). 2nd pitch to come soon.

The direct line up the juggy face and overhang. Brilliant climbing. Recleaned in 2020 by Dan Pearl.

Climb the middle of the face. A low bolt protects the hard start, power through the over lap on big holds with more welcome bolts and a nice bridgy / slab rest. Easier climbing in the middle with spaced bolts up to the big ledge with a final test at the top overhang. Like the name suggests, who would have thought such a nice climb was there!

1 Large hex or cam optional between 2nd and 3rd bolt

Climb the face to the left of Dealers Choice. Tricky moves off of the block lead to easier moves on good holds higher up. Top the route out to the right or under the tree and the anchors are on the wall above the mini cave.

The corner right of Drips Don't Dyno. Take your lichen cleaning tool of choice.

The fist crack right of Fantail that thins above the bulge.

Climbs the thin finger crack to "varied" terrain.

The crack right of Gravity Failure. Into the corner then exit right to the face.

Up the face left of Quiet Desperation.

Right of Quiet Deperation.

P1 (19): Start up slabby ground on the right end of the wall. Head right to a belay station after 3 bolts. P2 (22): Crank through the bulge to gain the ledge. Up through another bulge then follow the bolts to the top of the cliff.

Climb the slabby pillar left of the bush filled corner. When out in the sunshine head straight up through a bulge and into the belay ledge. Gear needed at the start and finish

Climbs the low angle arete to the ledge, followed by thuggy moves to the anchor.

Leftmost route on upper tier.

This route is situated some 20 metres to the right of Epileptic Vampire and starts at a short green mossy corner.

Pitch 1, 25m: Climb the corner and its continuation above. Move right into a shallow groove and continue up the crack to a ledge.

Pitch 2, 15m: The dirty crack at the back of the ledge is the finish.

Start on boulder. Clip bolt then do hard move onto the arete. Nice climbing. Hidden hold to finish.

Start down and right on the break, traverse left and finish on the tricky upper slab.

Climb through the big groove and finish on the shelf.

SDS and straight up through the jug.

Climb the arete.

Climb the tall arete.

Start down and right of the arete. Match on the horizontal break, go straight up into the arete and finish up and left on the slab.

Start down the hump then go leftish then up. Guess the end.

Start in the scoop, traverse left under the arete and up that to good holds behind the tree. Move right and up to finish.

Head up the small shoot, making a big move at the small roof. THis is followed by chill but pumpy climbing to the anchors.

As the name suggests, this is a never-ending pumpy adventure through the small roof and the upper wall.

Climb the face using the right arete.

Climb the face.

Compress up the face from a sit start.

Start matched on the break and throw for the top or find some other way up.

Climb the techy face.