Aiuto

Capricorn

10
AU

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

The next major orange wall about 200m west (5 mins walk) from base of Banksy. This wall gets sun an hour earlier than Banksy, around 1.30pm, but then goes back into the shade after 3.30pm when the sun dips behind the hill to the north. The starts of routes here can sometimes be a bit seepy or vegetated and the base of the cliff is not kid friendly (big drop-off below). There is one large Isopogon fletcheri plant located on its own on a ledge near Skin in the Game. Treat it with care.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Oronga Crags

It's within the National Park, act appropriately. No dogs.

*There are several vulnerable plants (Isopogon fletcheri) growing along the undercut ledge system between the access gully and Banksy Wall. Please don't walk across this ferny ledge as a shortcut - ever. Continued access to future climbing in the Blues depends on it. Be careful of all vegetation on the walk in and at the crag itself. Isopogon fletcheri is only located at a handful of locations in the upper Blue Mountains, and the Oronga Crags contain the 2nd largest number of these plants ever recorded. National Parks is monitoring this site. *

Note calata

All route have lower-offs but watch your rope length!

Etica ereditato da Oronga Crags

If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision. Avoid damaging any vegetation in this area.

Vie

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Grado Via

Not listed in current print guide. Far right route. Little corner to start, through a roof then up reachy wall and jugs to first anchor of Skin in the Game (grade 23 to here). Continue up that route's extension for one bolt then take the right line of bolts through awesome steepness on flakes and pockets.

Starts in little alcove. Up and right through steepness to start - then wall to first set of anchors at 18m below shale ledge.

FA: Heath Black, 23 Set 2018

Continuation past ugly shale band keeps going up and out on mostly big, but spaced holds. Exciting big move to finish.

FA: Heath Black, 23 Set 2018

The central line up the guts of Capricorn starting with vertical face climbing and then kicking back into endurance pumping steepness with rad killer wasp pockets up top. Long draws useful. 20 bolts!

FA: Heath Black, 27 Mag 2017

Not listed in current print guide. Short batman past vegetation band to start. Thin and technical with a great crimp finish to lower-offs halfway up the wall. It's possible to connect this into the Gary the Goat Extension for a full length route (grade 24).

Starting just right of Baphomet’s corner on right side of arete. Nice orange rock with great moves to lower set of anchors below choss band. There is a rung hidden in the vegetation at the start to keep your feet dry.

FA: Jason McCarthy, 21 Mag 2017

From lower set of anchors head right and through choss band then long rightwards trending pumper with a hard final move to anchors right at the top of the cliff. This is a FULL 35m, watch your rope length on this!

FA: Jason McCarthy, 21 Mag 2017

Left facing corner system on left side of wall then a steeper finish, with a heartbreaker last move. There is a rung at the start to keep your feet dry.

FA: Jason McCarthy, 9 Apr 2017

Quite different to other routes in this area. Sustained thin orange face left of the corner of Baphomet. After the first two bolts stay left of the next bolts up to the small ledge. Finish up steeper jugs. Macca the goat kicked Neil’s bolting gear off the top of this route.

FA: Heath Black & Jenna Brady, 30 Apr 2017

Heaps good thin face climbing up an orange streak. The face and flake system just left of Cloven. The top crux originally went more direct up the orange rock - but after a key hold snapped its possible to climb slightly right of last bolt.

FA: Heath Black, 7 Mag 2017

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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Mar 23 Mag
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