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Echo Point Walls

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etica ereditato da Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

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Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Amazing position right next to Katoomba Falls, with an airy, mixed-quality set of pitches. You can be seen by the tourists from about five different vantage points, so expect some cheering\heckling\posing.

Bring a rack of cams 0.3 to 4, and 5 bolts plates as well as the usual kit.

Approach by walking down the creek above Katoomba Falls (yes, in the creek - access from below Katoomba Cascades) until near the top of the main falls. Be careful as the rock is extremely slippery, and with enough rainfall the water can be quite high and fast-flowing. Belay carefully from shrubs near the top of the main falls.

  1. 15m (18) A traverse access pitch! Traverse hard right to gain the major flake, then up this to 2 x carrot bolt belay. Belay from here. Now rap 20m to a hanging 2 x carrot bolt belay directly below.

  2. 20m (23) 1 carrot + trad. Up, trending right to flake feature and carrot. Then directly up to gain major right-facing flake. Be sure to save a 0.4/0.5 for after you've stuck the crux. Belay from the 2 x carrot bolt belay you just rapped from.

  3. 15m (22) 1 Fixed Hanger, 1 carrot + trad. Kinda scary and a bit loose. Carefully traverse left from the belay, and punch up to gain fixed hanger. Then traverse back right and up via waco to crimp rail. Hard traverse left to jugs, thread and gear. Then back right and up via very punchy moves to ironstone block on the lip of the roof. Mantle this to gain carrot bolt, then doddle upwards to top-out. Belay off convenient collection of shrubs.

To find your way back to the path, bush bash straight up the hill until you reach the main pathway.

1 22 45m
2 22 30m

One of the best mini-multis for a quick, exposed and scenic adventure in the Blue Mountains. This route is highly visible to the tourist hoards passing overhead on the Scenic Skyway cablecar and nearby lookouts. On a busy weekend expect to be hassled and photographed relentlessly. There have been reported incidents of police meeting climbers on the top-out after tourists thought the climbers were stuck and rang 000.

This route can be done as a run-out sport route (bring 15+ draws) or a saner mixed route with the addition of a single set of cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot. Long runners are useful to reduce rope-drag and for a thread on pitch 1. This route no longer requires bolt plates.

Start: Make your way to the lookout on the Prince Henry Cliff Walk directly below the Katoomba side of the Scenic Skyway. From the lookout the rap point is on the small but obvious rock platform 30m down and to the left. There is a well beaten dirt track leading to this spot (it's a popular Instagram selfie area)

There are 2 ringbolts to rap off hidden back from the edge obscured by some bushes. Do NOT rap off the 2 carrot bolts a few metres further left. Fix a 70m rope to these anchors and rap down to the major vegetated starting ledge. It is possible to rap and pull ropes if you build an anchor that gets over the top edge. 30m to the mid height rap chain followed by a 40m rap to the bottom of the route. Facing the cliff, the route starts on a ledge a few metres up and to the left of where you touch down with a single bolt belay.

  1. 45m (22) A long pitch. After a very hard start move trend right up the ramp. Now climb up and up and up, mainly on jugs, but even so there is one unnerving run out section. A 60cm sling for an obvious thread can mitigate the runout. Eventually you come to the belay chain.

  2. 30m (22) An excellent pitch with a couple of tricky sections to keep things interesting. Cams help alleviate runouts. Don't forget to smile for the cameras.

FA: S Moon's, 1990

Named after the remorseless tunes the Scenic Railway plays across the valley. Good climbing, take the usual rack of big cams plus extra medium cams and lots of wires. 8 or 9 bolt plates. A few runouts on easy ground, average scary Blueys trad. Walk up to Ice :- walk down Furber Steps or catch the scenic railway down, turn east. A few minutes past the creek there's a boulder 6m above the track with a info sign below it. A minute or so past this is a huge yellow boulder 15m above the track with a well worn track up to it. Up here. Ice is in the left side of a huge gully 100m above all this. Walk left 60m, past a fused corner with a retreat bolt and tatt at 12m, to a thin right facing corner with a roof at 10m. Short fist crack on the right wall.

  1. 28m (18) Up corner system, right under little roof then up fused corner to a 2BB where the cracks head off right.

  2. 25m (18) Step right up drummy flake for 11m to small roof. traverse R 4m to next crack system and up to 2BB on shale ledge.

  3. 30m (3) Walk right to good ledge. belay below thin crack on headwall

  4. 10m (17) Up unprotected wall to 3BB on ledge.

  5. 30m (19) Four bolts. Fight through headwall then up thin crack to 3BB at bush.

  6. 30m (17) Up thin crack with good wires and large cams in breaks, then right a meter past bolt and up 5m higher, then diagonally right up thin flake to good ledge 10m below roof. 2BB

  7. 30m (18) Right to ledge and R past 3Brs, then up and left on good rock to top.

FA: mikl law & neil monteith, 2013

1 17 10m
2 22 45m
3 17 R 20m
4 18 R 40m
5 17 50m

Mixed climbing masterpiece. The excellent final pitch can be seen easily from the lookouts on Cliff Drive.

Start: Huge right facing corner directly beneath Wollumni Look out. Best access is to walk-in via Furbers Steps, left at the bottom and follow track to HUGE boulder on left about 250m after crossing the creek. Head directly up the hill towards the cliff. The route has a substantial tree at its base that you use to get established on the rock and there is a NY cap with a rock on it at the base.

  1. 10m (17) Mantle on to tree then up corner and slightly left to belay at twin breaks. Gear belay.

  2. 45m (22) Head leftwards from the belay towards carrot and then up the awesome wall just in from the arete on great rock passing more carrots and good gear in horizontals just where you need it. When you arrive at a small scoop and ledge trend up and left to the arete and boulder your way through to the belay which is two carrots.

  3. 20m (17) Walk 4m left on ledge to bolt above your head. Up passing one more bolt and slightly left to ledge below yellow corner. Not a load of gear. Single bolt and cam belay.

  4. 40m (18) Up corner with limited gear but on rock that is better than it looks, then traverse right to chossy ledge. Up great juggy crack to mossy ledge. Single bolt and cam belay.

  5. 50m (17) Corner, right at top (ignore rusty carrot out left) and up to huge tree below the lookout.

FA: M.Wilson & J.Clark, 1994

8m past Wollemi lookout, climb the fence and walk to the right below a small boulder to find the abseil rings above you. Abseil just left of the small tree (looking out) to 2 x rings 15m down, and keep on abseiling clipping some bolts along the way to keep in contact with the wall. A 60m rope JUST reaches in 1 abseil on stretch (tie a knot in the end). This is the last route off the right side of the small, exposed footledge.

Take at least 12 bolt plates, a single rack (BD 0.3 - 3) and some mid-sized wires.

  1. From the belay, trend up and right over the void to a bolt, then continue upwards with 1 very hard move at 2/5ths height. Supplement bolts with cams and wires (good gear) as necessary. Belay on 2 x rings 15m down from the top.

  2. Hard start, then up past carrots to roof. Hard moves to turn the lip (don't forget the hard-to-see carrot bolt on the lip of the roof, and the optional #3 placement just below the roof proper in the vegetation). Belay off abseil anchors well back from cliff edge.

Approached along the main tourist clifftop track from Wally World direction.

From Allambie Lookout, the route is visible as the arete down and 40m to the left (looking out).

Continue walking towards the Three Sisters to next promontory and 2m before wooden drain crosses track (small cliff line to your left); head down right through bush for 6m (down 1m rock step) and around left to 2 ring rap station.

Abseil 6m diagonally left to single ringbolt on clifftop (the route anchors are 3m further down on grey slab).

Re-belay abseil rope and abseil 35m+ down overhanging arete and onto wall and left (looking in) to 3RBB on small foot ledge.

Make sure to bounce off the wall and clip into draws on the way down.

Fix a 60m abseil rope from the top station all the way down; and climb on another rope.

Good climbing, great exposure.

FA: Phil Sage, 2004

FA: J Ewbank & C Monteath, 1969

Start: Corner right of detached flake about 80m left of GwtW.

  1. 28m (15) Corner, right wall of corner then right across ledge to belay.

  2. 27m (21) 'Steep' ramp and mantle shelves, right to ledge at base of faint arete. Traverse left then up through juggy terrain and right onto ledge.

  3. 33m (20) Up slab, left above roof and belay on halfway ledge.

  4. 10m (10)

  5. 12m (24)

  6. 30m (17)

  7. 30m (13)

FA: I.Brown & T.Williams, 1993

Start: Below the steep corner at top of cliff left of 'Echo Crack'.

  1. 25m (27) Left facing corner to ledge, steep wall to scoop and ledge. can be aided (22M1).

  2. 40m (19) Corner to block, left leading groove to shale band. Belay on left.

  3. 15m (13) Shale band, right to ledge below the main corner.

  4. 25m (20) Corner to ledge on right.

  5. 21m (21) Corner to ledge on right.

  6. 20m (18) Step left, corner to dirty groove, left and up to belay (hanging).

  7. 15m (18) Up wall.

FFA: K.Carrigan

FA: (J.Ewbank & J.Pickard), 1968

CLOSED PROJECT

This The route starts from a hanging belay in a dihedral above the void. the ledge belay below Echo Crack P3 (the crux pitch). Access by heading down the Echo Crack exit track from Echo Point to the first set of double rings, and abseiling 70m down the arete to the hanging belay (some trickery needed to avoid getting stuck in space).

  1. 20m (24) Extremely hard move off the belay (bolt) to gain the traverse line, then truck right past #1 and #3 to bolt. Ignore belay bolts below (for The Horror) and keep on traversing at the same level to break and #3. Then up, trending right past another #3 to gnarly flake, and 2 bolt hanging belay on the right.

  2. 25m (PROJECT) - Fully bolted, but very hard. This Pitch is still a CLOSED PROJECT. Up, trending left past bolts, with lots of hard moves.

  3. 35m (21) As for The Horror Pitch 4.

From here, bush-bash left up gully to regain the Echo Crack exit track.

An old-school, bowel-loosening journey across one of the most exposed bits of rock in the Blueys. Mostly trad, but with just enough bolts to keep it ever-so-slightly on the right side of insanity. Mostly great rock, and wild moves (pitches 2 and 3 will blow your mind!).

Bring double cams #0.5 to #3, with singles of #0.3, #0.4, #4 and #5, and all the usual paraphernalia necessary for a RADventure.

Ascensionists must be comfortable climbing well above gear on easier terrain. The cruxes can be aided past -with some craftiness- but the traversing (and very steep) nature of the route means both leader and second must be capable of ascending the rope in the event of a fall.

The route starts from the ledge belay below Echo Crack P3 (the crux pitch). Access by either climbing P1 and P2 of Echo Crack. Or, better yet, walk to the top of Echo Crack from Echo Point, and abseil 80m down the top 2 pitches of that route (some trickery needed to avoid getting stuck in space).

If you need to bail, you can either rap right down Echo Crack to the ground with 2 x 60m ropes and walk back up the giant staircase. Or, if you've accessed this route from above, and managed to keep the tail of the rap line in place (eg. threading it through the belay bolts below echo crack) you can reverse the climb and jumaar back up it.

  1. 10m (21) From the belay right of echo crack, traverse left (#1 cam in start of echo crack) past bolt, then up overhanging prow with #0.75, #3, and #4 to Bolt and #0.75 Belay.

  2. 20m (24) Traverse left and up to gain main traverse line (#2). Traverse straight left past #3, and on to bolt. Crux follows, then crucial #2 (to protect second), and onwards past #4 and #3. A short runout section of traversing takes you to just below the anchors (#5 recommended), then final thin moves to 2 bolt belay.

  3. 35m (25 to 26) Up and left to bolt, then straight traverse left past #3 and #1. Ignore bolt further left (it's for the neighbouring route), and instead make your way upwards with tricky face moves on much steepness past 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt, traverse left to difficult moves (crux) to gain arete and move upwards to jug-hole on left side of arete. Chill in the big cave, then truck right and up bouldery steepness past 2 bolts. After 2nd bolt, traverse left to gain hanging grey arete, with sustained, technical moves past #0.75, #1, #3, and #0.5 to gain 2 bolt belay. Breathe an epic sigh of relief.

  4. 35m (21) Crux off belay past 3 bolts, then quest upwards, trending right to arete where rock and gear are better. Eventually meander back to left-facing flake (crucial #3 !!), and up to bolt. Thin moves out left, then up past crucial #0.75 to belay in cave. For this pitch, bring a single rack #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.5, #0.75 and #3.

From here, bush-bash left up gully to regain the Echo Crack exit track.

Some of the finest and most "out-there" arete climbing in the Blueys, with tonnes of exposure, and situated on one of the most sought-after bits of real estate around.

Access as for The Horror.

  1. 15m (21) As for P1 of The Horror. This pitch can (and should) be linked into the next one (and was on the FA). 1 Bolt, 2 x #0.75, #1, #3, #4.

  2. 25m (23) All trad! Up the face to gain hanging fused corner system, then sporty moves up linked corners, flakes and prows to semi-hanging belay on small ledge. #0.2, #0.3, #0.4, 2 x #1, 2 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, #5.

  3. 32m (27) Hard, sustained, steep, scary. One of the best bits of arete climbing in the Blueys. Up the arete, though several rooflets, concluding with a wild finale to gain a cozy belay on a hanging prow. 8 Bolts, optional #0.5 near the top.

  4. 35m (23) Very hard moves to gain the second bolt above the roof (its about gr21 if you pull up to the first bolt), then easier face climbing on gear to bolt near the top. Straight up the face from here, then -where it turns to dirt- truck right on obvious break (#2) to prow, and up this to anchor. 3 Bolts, Thread, #0.2/0.3, 2 x #0.75, 2 x #1, 3 x #2, 2 x #3, #4.

Frothy Thomson on the First Ascent of Darkest Congo

Huge crack underneath main lookout, requires standard rack with the addition of up to ten #3 camalots.

  1. (13) Chossy corner and crack leading left to well signposted belay ledge. \

  2. (18) Small corner to crack then veering left to mantle loose shale ledge. Ring bolt belay.

  3. (25) Left over the void and up to get established in crack (crux) then up. Never quite gets dry. Bring lots (9) of number 3 cams. Up to belay with two carrots though horizontal above ideal.

  4. (22) Up then leave crack to bridge left past 3 good carrot bolts (2014) and original rotten aid bashies beside them to top. If you've freed pitch 3, pitch 4 feels just as hard!

Walk off 15mtrs then scramble up 1 meter ledge and follow trail meandering up then right a little under last cliff to lookout. Well done

FA: John Ewbank & J Davis, 1968

FFA: Gilbert Meunier & Garth Miller, 1995

A wild pitch of face climbing, starting from the major ledge halfway down the wall right of Echo Crack. Rather complicated to get to.

Mostly bolted, but sparsely so. Bring cams 0.3 to 0.75 for the traverse exit to P2.

  1. 40m (26) Traverse right from the belay, then very hard moves to get started, followed by sustained face climbing with some wild runouts. 2 Bolt belay.

  2. 10m (18) As for Alive in a Bitter Sea, traverse left past carrots and some trad gear to belay at the top of Echo Crack.

FFA: Dan Honeyman & Duncan Hunter

Classic Blueys steep face climbing in an inspiring location, but with the old-school epic of extremely bold climbing above gear.

Original bolts replaced (like for like) with Glue-in Stainless Carrots in 2016!

Access either by walking to the top of the route from Echo Point and rapping the route (recommended), or by climbing the lower pitches of Echo Crack or Silent Echo to the huge shale-band ledge at half height.

To access from the top, make your way from Echo Point Upper Viewing Platform, down the ramp and head towards the Lower Viewing Platform. 30m after you turn left from the bottom of the ramp (heading towards the lower platform), there is a yellow mark on the fence on your right. Step over this, then down scrub heading vaguely right through bush to rock pagoda. Keep the rock on your right initially as you head down the hill, following a vague weakness and a number of yellow arrows. When the next cliffline appears on your left, hug that and down a number of small shelves to arrive at 2 x carrot + 1 fixed hanger belay directly above Echo Crack.

The top of Alive in a Bitter Sea is at 2 Stainless carrots (and one original Bash-in) atop a series of big teetering blocks, approximately 10m across the wall directly in front of you, at the same height as the Echo Crack top-out.

  1. 25m (24 R/X) - Hard moves directly up past 2 carrots (caution getting to 2nd Carrot). Traverse straight right via balancy moves for several metres to flake. Up this with gear, then hard moves up vague corner to placement, and directly right to detached flake, up this to gain "hanging blunt arete". More hard moves up arete past one last carrot bolt to belay on small flake stance (Piton + Bolt + #4/#3.

  2. 40m (25 R) - Stupidly hard at the grade. Traverse directly right from the belay for several metres, then diagonally up and right to shale break , then up via 2 carrots of sustained hard climbing up blunt arete to infamous dyno, and more hard arete climbing to belay on small ledge (3 carrots) - Consider shifting the belay further right to be out of the way for the nails at the start of the next pitch).

  3. 15m (23 R) - Straight up via utterly desperate thin moves off the belay to a very high carrot (caution getting to this bolt!), more hard moves past gear to another carrot, then easier climbing up (trending vaguely left) past several placements to belay on top of big flake (3 Carrots).

  4. 10m (14) - Traverse left along face, then across Echo Crack past 3 carrots and several possible gear placements, up onto belay ledge (2 Carrots, 1 FH).

Walk back up to Echo Point.

FA: Warick Baird

First two pitches as for Iron Lady the out left and up face to eventually traverse back to Echo Crack and the walk off there.

A proud, soaring, intimidating and bold rising traverse across the wall below Echo Point. Very committing and involved, with tricky route finding and old bolts... But a brilliant climb despite all of this.

Bring Cams 0.3 to 4, with doubles of 0.5 to 3. Optional #5 cam, #2 (yellow) C3/X4, and a light rack of small wires.

To access, either climb the first 2 pitches of Echo Crack, or approach from the Echo Point Lookout by walking down climbers track until above Echo Crack and abseiling in (Rap 80m down Echo Crack, bouncing to stay in contact with the wall, and placing a few bits of gear to redirect the rope (2nd to clean on the way down) to arrive at the Echo Crack belay).

  1. 20m (10) Traverse carefully right along the extremely loose shale ledge to Penny Ledge. Belay off boulder bollards, an ancient carrot, and whatever gear you can find. 3 carrots and 1 ring.

  2. 40m (23) A number of possible starts, all involving ground falls. Find the first carrot on the right-side of an arete-feature 6m up. Start somewhere to the right of it, and head leftwards towards it. Crux moves up to break, traverse right past piton, and up, trending right to carrot. Continue trending up and right to another carrot (ignore fixed hanger and other carrots which meander vaguely left, they are for Exercising the Devils) then onward to detached flake. Traverse hard right past thread to hanging slab belay on gear. 3 carrots and 1 piton.

  3. 30m (23) Spot the first carrot on this pitch from the belay before starting, as it's hard to see and key to route-finding. It's about 8m right and 5m up above a small flake-feature. Traverse hard right until below the carrot, then crux moves to gain the carrot. Up to break, then rising traverse right to 3-carrot belay stance below small square-cut roof. 4 carrots (3 are on the belay).

  4. 25m (23) Left off the belay, crucial #4/#5 cam in shale-slot, and micro cam (#2 C3/X4) further left. Big moves past roof to carrot, hard traverse right on the lip of the roof, then up right-facing flake to horizontal break. Traverse far right to ledge where break ends. Straight up slab with marginal protection to steep jugs and mantle finish. Belay off trees/shrubs in the gully to the right.

To escape, carefully follow the vegetated cliffline to the right, meandering upwards where possible until you can gain the major gully system. Up the gully, then up the hill to the path. Go home, quit climbing, take up croquet .

FA: Warwick Baird, 1986

A fantastic trad route up a very striking line. In 2020 a large box sized section of rock fell off at the start of pitch 3. The route has been re-established with the addition of a couple of bolts in this section. All other fixed gear was replaced in 2021.

The most straightforward way to access this climb is probably to go up the gully and fixed ropes as for Echo Crack and then wander right (facing the cliff) for 130m.

Bring a standard double rack (BD 0.3-3), one BD 4 & 5 and a few very small cams. And maybe some extras in the hand range if you want to be really comfy. Don't forget wires either, this route eats them!

Start at low angled black wall with vegetated crack 130m right of Echo Crack.

  1. 25m (14) Scrubby crack to major ledge. Vegetated but mostly good gear and rock. Build belay in small alcove behind large block.

  2. 55m (17) Step left onto ramp feature from the top of the block and then follow the vegetated crack up, up forever. Belay on big choss ledge.

  3. 35m Follow bolts up wall then pace a crucial #5 & #3 cam in shallow jugs above last bolt, before traversing left to base of corner pedestal. Place a nest of micro gear here before mantling. Up long corner until you are 10-15m below the roof and build a belay at whatever stance you can find.

  4. 25m Continue up corner with hard move at mid height to roof. Traverse left under roof on good holds, passing a weird triple carrot bolt belay and a few more bolts after this. Make sure to traverse a long ways left, around the arete, and don't go up the obvious, steep, vegetated crack. Once around the arete go up to ledge and set belay.

  5. 30m (22) Good flake to blank corner with a bouldery move protected by bolts. Quest upwards with exciting gear to a small rooflet. Clip the bolt and do a hard move before stepping left into juggy corner finale. Belay off various trees.

    Walk off by going straight up the obvious ridge and then heading left once you get to the next cliff tier, which is the base of spooners lookout. Scramble up the creek for a short while, keeping on the right side as much as possible. Keep veering right as the terrain allows to avoid soggy creek catchment, and you will pop out where the paved spooners lookout threeway junction is.

FFA: Michael Law & Kim Carrigan

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Prickard, 1968

A steep, clean, direct variant finish to Genghis Khan from midway through the Traverse on pitch 4 with some excellent rock and great protection.

  1. As for GK

  2. As for GK

  3. As for GK

  4. As for GK to triple carrot belay part way through the traverse.

  5. 15m Clip bolt out left then up vegetated corner above to belay ledge. Mind the jumble of teetering boulders at next belay. It is not necessary to touch them building anchor or climbing, therefore unnecessary to trundle them either.

  6. 25m (22) Continue up fine clean well protected corner. Plug something in and fire up fingers layback crux, passing a ringbolt eventually, and then finish up the final headwall, passing an obvious carrot (with a good small/medium cam slot just above it if you prefer). Then slightly right under small rooflet at top (#4 cam just before top out mantle).

    Belay off Mallee stems approx 4m from edge. Unlike GK, a few boltplates are still required for this climb to utilise triple bolt belay beneath pitch 5, though a small sling hitch may suffice on protruding carrot as there is one ringbolt now at belay.

FFA: Tom Williams, 1985

Another (fairly average looking) variant to Genghis Khan. Instead of climbing the awesome finalpitch of the aforementioned route, instead traverse out left and head up the mossy, dirty face following the line of carrots. Finish up final corner as for Genghis Khan.

The nearest climb you can do to the now banned Three Sisters! (They are only 20m away).

Rack: 4 bolt plates, wires and cams (max #3 Camelot size)

Approach: walk down tourist track to bridge going across to the Three Sisters (Honeymoon Bridge). Scramble down to under this bridge and head down very steep vegetated gully towards Scenic World. There isn't much sign of a track and lots of rubbish from tourists. About 50m down the gully is a vegetated ledge system. Orange Slice is 10m right (facing out) of the approach gully.

  1. 25m 15. Black slab for 5m to base of leftward curving orange corner. Up this on nice waterpolished rock to comfy ledge and double BR belay. Back it up with good cams and wires.

  2. 20m 16. Fused corner with little arete on the right side. At top of corner mantle up to ledge on left. 1 BR and bad piton for belay. Backup with #2 cam and high small wire.

  3. 30m 16 Ignore bolts above (that's the direct) - and instead traverse right steeply along break and up black wall (not well protected) past hard to spot old bolts. Scramble up through small bushes to good tree belay well back. Say hi to many gawking tourists. When they ask if you are abseiling- tell them no, you are kayaking. That should shut them up.

The Original route up 'Echo Point'.

FA: B Allen / J Ewbank, 2000

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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