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The Cheesecake

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Descrizione

'The Cheesecake' is the lower, first line of cliffs at the southern end of 'Mt Abrupt'. The name becomes obvious when you see the (somewhat chossy) cheesecake-like layers on the east facing walls. Moss and lichen is a problem on many routes, but apart from a few wide horrors, the climbing is quite good.

Since the approach brings you to the righthand end of the cliff, climbs are listed right to left.

Almost zero traffic means loose rock and moss abound. Helmets recommended.

Please do not add inscriptions below the cave.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

Prioritised for Review

Avvicinamento

Exactly 3.0 km from the Halls Gap-Dunkeld Rd intersection is an old gate on the weatern side of the road. Park here. Walk up the old tourist trail immediately on your right inside the gate and you'll come to the far righthand end of cliff (gets increasingly hard to follow but isn't too bad). 'Flay' is the obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves as you arrive.

Etica ereditato da Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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The obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves when you first reach 'The Cheesecake'. Easy but definitely a few grades harder than 8. An alternate finish involves heading right and up the slab at the third cave, thereby avoiding the bushes.

A climb of considerable quality considering its location. The leader used a rest 4m below the belay, eliminated by the second. There is an abseil anchor on the ledge. This is also a better place to finish Harassed Tweed. Start at Harassed Tweed. Move up and left past a fixed wire to a rest, then step back right and continue straight up to belay ledge.

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1994

Starts as for NLAS, but takes the faint RH crack. Traverse R through bulges up to small ledge on nose. Excellent sustained climbing up faint crack (accepts good small wires) leads up to ledge. Dicey direct start might be possible. Pitch 2 as for NLAS.

FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 2014

Looks amazing? Particularly for the grade - very thin crack (wires & small friends) up an inspiring wall. Starts just around the nose of the East facing wall, about 30m left of flay.

  1. 30m, Crux. Delicately up bulges in middle of wall, trending left until it is possible to traverse right on black pockets into the crack. Great climbing up this to ledge below ceiling.

  2. Up to short L facing corner to roof, then step around R and climb chossy wall above - either finish through two noses, or belay beneath them and walk off right.

FA: Russell Crow, Allan Hope & Terry Tremble, 1983

Can descend from 1st pitch by rope traversing 5 metres to DRB above RRCC.

Makes the route independent of Cream Cheese. Start on the same ledge as Never Love A Stranger. Up left leaning crack into the wide crack of Handle With Care (where it traverses from Cream Cheese).

Can rope traverse left to DRB on RRCC after first pitch.

FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1994

Start 3m left of Cream Cheese at the groove starting from a ledge, accessed from Old English gully. (The initial short corner was avoided because it was dirty and poorly protected, however, it was seconded.) Up the groove just left of the arête past natural pro and a bolt. Continue to the second bolt then step right onto the arête. Up a few metres to belay on a small ledge. Traverse off right into Cream Cheese and to the large ledge.

FA: Glen Donohue & Graeme Smith, 1994

Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1998

Up 'Old English' for 2m, step right, climb centre of face to exit top right, on arête.

FA: Ramon Francis & Catherine Francis, 1998

FA: Jim Nelson Dick Curtis

On the wall R of Shadow Road there is a major crack line near the arete. The crack starts above a bulging lower wall. Start down and L of the crack.

  1. 18m [20] Up and R following awkward seams and ledges to the foot of the crack. Hanging belay.

  2. 32m [19] The crack to a good ledge on the R.

  3. 22m [17] Step out R and pick your way up the grooves to the final steep crack thru’ the top bulge.

FA: Richard Curtis 1, 2 & Jim Nelson 3, 1979

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autore/i: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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