Vie come boulder in North Grampians

Squat on the right arete start jug and head up the arete.

Sit start on hueco.

A stunning highball arete that feels serious for the grade. Stand start at the base of the arete and follow the line. If you get halfway up and decide you're not having fun it's easy enough to step off onto the adjacent rising boulder.

Clamber past Peregrinator to find this shady gem. Sit start on two good edges, and do a couple of long moves to the committing top out. It's hard to be comfortable with the nasty drop off on the left.

Sit start at the bottom of the arete and bear hug your way to the top.

sit start on a jug and mantle past slopey lip.

Sit start to the left of D'artagnan. Left hand on high left crimp and right hand on low right crimp (starting foot hold of the V2). Make a big right-hand move into the jug slot and traverse rightward along the lip to finish up D'artagnan.

This line can also be exited directly at about V1-V2.

Sit start on a good crimp and move up the blunt arete. The V7 (original line) traverses into crimps then slopers on the right side of the arete. Finishing direct on the arete goes at about V4.

Right rising traverse on low prow boulder to the right of Darjeeling Express

Sit Start the bottom right side of the 'Galaxy Vivisection' boulder. Follow the flake to a shared topout.

Resides on the walk-in track to 'Spurt Wall' - just before the 'tunnel' (beneath the 'Taipan' route 'Invisible Fist').

The obvious left to right traverse along the bottom left side of Spurt Wall.

Sit start a couple of meters to the right of the end of the 'The Spurt Traverse'. Start on small edges heading up an left to the good pockets and final victory jug.

Sit start with pockets on the face and arete. Climb up using the pockets.

Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip

Sit start using pockets on the face and arete. Climb straight up using pockets

Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

Start left of Kamikaze and head left.

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.

Start as for To Catch a Thief (V4) on the two big pockets, link this into Remains of the Sheep (V6). The ledge is out.

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

Project to the right of the finish of 'Kings Cross'.

Sit start on the left, follow wavy cracks up on lovely slopey holds.

Start off rock on slopey jug, head up and right through committing moves between jugs.

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

Stand start, big move to lip and mantle.

Sit start with udercling and crimp, up to edge and throw for sloper. Head left on slopers and mantle. Low right foot ledge is out. Bit crumbly but still worthy.

Sit start on good holds, head up and right to join the rail before topping out as the landing falls away.

Sit start on jug, head up and traverse left on slopers to finish as for Stage Fright.

The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt.

~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge.

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing.

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

Left-trending line from a low sit-start into the finish of Elephant's Swing.

Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

Obvious (grim) mantle problem a couple of metres left of Lazy M's finish. A couple of other variations exist here as well.

Choss!

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

A variant of the 'The Farmer Traverse'. Do the same start, then use the higher line of holds to finish on the sloper to the left of the finishing jug of 'The Farmer Traverse'.

A lot easier than the original?

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Another dynamic problem.

Wolf/Liew

Overgraded? jug haul starting from a sit-start then up the right-trending flakeline - to cut back left via a horizontal slot - then the top.

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.

Sit-start on large flat jug under the roof (same start as for Strammamax) - then head left around onto the face - and up crack weakness.

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

Starts on the big chalked slopey hold under the hanging arete (left of Lost For Life). Up via a pocket in the roof, then undercling to a good jug. Has a reputation for being nails hard for the grade.

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Stand start on the obvious wide crimp rail. Finish as for LFL.

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.