Vie come sportiva in Right Main Wall

NB: Climb only if it has been dry for a week or so.

Start: Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

(Note: December 2022 - following the severe rock scaling here, by BCC, I checked the fixed hardware & found it untouched & unscathed. M. Gamble)

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Follow 6 FHs to hidden anchors, Avoid the choss/crack on the right

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

Start as for Bouncy Castle, up past first 2 bolts of BC to small rooflet, up over this (clip BC's bolts as protection) & finish up easy wall at BC's anchors.

Not an enjoyable route & run-out from the 2nd bolt.

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors.

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

Start as for 'Idiot Wind' & up to 4th bolt at the big flake.

At the 4th bolt on 'Idiot Wind' (the big flake), don't clip this, but instead, step slightly left, and up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 RBs: The 4th bolt is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt, thin moves to next bolt, then traverse right 1.5m, to IW anchors.

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

A hard 21! As for TSSO, up IW, passing the first IW RB, mantle the ledge and clip the 2nd IW RB with a longish runner, from the ledge, head right to next RB up the broken face, at the "variant start" painted on the rock, keep right, up ledges till you can safely clip the 4th RB at a small stance, then hard moves up the face to the next RB, at the ledges above, move either 1m left or right, to anchors on IW, or TSSO. (route re-bolted + anchors installed on TSSO April 2024.)

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Up to 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind', mantle the ledge & clip the 2nd RB on IW, with a longish runner, from the ledge, trend slightly right, up the broken face to the next RB, then follow the broken ledge up right, below the headwall, to a small stance & the next RB, delicate moves to the FH & rap rings. ( Route re-bolted + anchors installed April 2024.)

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to "Dysentery" which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper, overhanging part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB, then rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749].

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

Linkup. Climb past the crux of 'Gangbang Wall', then traverse R across 'Hanger Wall' and past 2 FHs to the 'Brisbane Bitter' anchors.

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

Very cruxy.

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steep wall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22 10 years ago... this was before the crux hold broke off.

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors.

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 4 BRs then left to the 'Punks in the Gin' anchor. Quite run out, and the carrots always feel one move further away than you wished they were.

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR. Also, there is a large loose, wobbly block in the bulgy crux section. Beware.

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now.

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun.

Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors.

Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors.

Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice.

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

Linkup. First part 'Cucumber Castle', second part 'Wages Of Fear'.

Essentially Sinister Pathway lite. Climb CC to second bolt, traverses left to the second bolt on Wages, pull its crux, then traverse left at the break to finish up Honed. Fun!

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'.

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse left across 'Moonlight Fantasia' and place some protection, then over to the 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse left across to the 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Again traverse left across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip the last 2 bolts of this route to anchors.

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB.

Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd RB. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd RB on the way to the top. Crimpy.

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high RB to 2nd RB at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd RB to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height.

Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs.

Start 2m R of 'Pig City'.

Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'.

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Delicate move into corner & 3rd FH. Hard moves up to crack and jugs, then easy to top.

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Out right & up to 2nd big ledge above 3rd FH, up corner to chains.

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing L into blank corner with crack. Up crack past piton(!). Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs. Up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

Start about 5m L of "JAFKPR", marked "G" (directly beneath "NPD").

Now a sport climb with its own bolts & lower-off. Climb the arête up a series of overhangs. Hard & sustained for the grade. 3RBs to DBB.

Start at marking "NPD".

Up the blank face just R of "Gigolo", avoiding its holds including avoiding any holds on the arête. Follows the line of 4 RBs (that have replaced the original 5 aid bolts) to anchors slightly R of last RB.

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'.

Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains.

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

Directly in front of Lightbox 57. Easiest Climb at KP. Bolt is level with anchor, perfect for beginners to practice setting up and cleaning anchors.

Start 2m L of 'Mantlit'.

Mini sport lead, perfect for first time leaders. 3 RBs & DBB.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 RBs to DBB shared with 'Play School'.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to DBB shared with 'Mantlit'.

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs.

Climbs the blank face and arete 1 m R of 'Hanging Garden'. 3 RBs and anchors. Makes it easier if you can find the secret hold at the crux.

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Large rings up over the lip provide anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.

As for 'Short Wall' but climb down and R from the last BR, then up the small chossy corner to top out.