Vie in North Shore del grado selezionato

Some very tricky climbing. Start at the dyno hole and avoid the dyno ledge as well as the better holds out right. A little easier for the tall.

Note: This should appear before Dump Divers Dyno (currently No.8)

The cherry on the cake of bad simon traverse

Same as for "Dislocation Station" but once you have stuck the final ledge and your arms are screaming at you, continue to grind your way to the right following the solid ledges.

Finish by reversing "STWS" in a controlled manner

Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!

the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work

Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.

Several juggy moves directly in the centre of the wall from a standing start leading into some small overhung crimps and a long reach to the ledge. Topout over the second section or crawl around the gap to the right.

Start on the obvious triangle jug towards the back of the roof near the middle of the cave and move to the right side via the lowest chalked rail to the far right side lip. Turn the lip and move directly up the remaining slab to top out.

Sit start then climb the arete to a tricky mantle.

Up the face to the break before a big lock off to a slope below the eucalypt. Clean the top hold before attempt. Controversially, use the tree to top out.

Initialled start, L of HIE. Up and dyno to BR with fixed hanger. Mantle, move left then up and right (2 BRs one with fixed hanger) to tree.

Start as for Lover's Tiff but keep traversing left to top at the end of the cave.

Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

Stand start in low break, head up via small holds to top out.

Layback and undercling the long overlap to the finish of #5

Same as '12' except both aretes are off.

As if any more classics could be found on the glorious Kenny Boulder! From common undercling start, trend up and across slopers to same exit as "13" on left of boulder when looking at problem.

Anti-clockwise traverse of the boulder (stays below top). Hard traverse on the back end of the boulder.

Hard sit start variant on 'Orange Arete'

Holding sloping pocket with L.

Desperate sit start up the crack. Tape up, and use some crimps near the top for this grade. May not be doable pure.

Start on the jug/slot on the right, head up then traverse left to join the V3.

Phillip Booth

Start as for 'Dragon's Den' then traverse left along the bottom lip holds joining into 'Lower Cave B'. The bottom ledge is off.

About half way between the arete and Bog On Up is a faint feature around head height with two slopes on either side. Grab the slopes and make a series of desperate slaps to the right finishing up Bog On Up.

Sit start and a long reach. The arete and the big edge half way up on its left are off. Mike Croker

Start on obvious jug. Needs some repeats to confirm grade. Good start sequence.

Eson Zhao

Sit start on the lower rail, and continue upwards. Finish and top out directly upwards. The lip to the far left is out.

For those shorter of stature but still mighty of heart

Sit start at the common point under the left hand side of the first overhang.

Power straight up to the thin slot and then to the rounded pocket on the orange bulging section. The holds along the crack line in the middle are out.

Keep flowing up till you hit the long ledge line under the main section of the overhang and move left.

Throw a big deadpoint left out to the solid hold just under the lip. From here topout with some committing mantling

Power, Smooth hold placements and a committing top out, makes this an excellent problem

Link's Simon's Dyno into the end of Christian Brother's Brother

A super sustained traverse with some focused friction and slapping.

Sit start under the left rounded arete at the jugs. Power up to the Gaston and then head left to the defined edge of the boulder

Slap and smear your way along this until you hit the bomber holds just left of the right arete. Fighting the pump, get your mantle on and love the feeling of your defiance to Father Ted's Stiff Upper Lip.

Note - Clean the top before attempting, if there hasn't been much traffic

Original Problem V5 - Stand start just right of blunt arete

Crimps, under-clings, and a desperate snatch. Downgraded to seven from eight because general consensus seems to be it's a six. Stephen John B

Start same as Simon Magus but at lip of boulder move right 1m to topout on rounded holds while smearing the blank face

Sit Start at common low spot

power up to the arete and using the crimping side pull and small holds top out straight up all a smearing and a slapping

Start with both hands matched in far right jug (Charlotte's home) positioned to the right of "Can I Get A Witness". Traverse left using a pinch and a series of heels before linking back up with "Can I Get A Witness" and launching to Wilbur's snout.

Tom Ilchef

Classic of the area and quite techincal depending on your height. Good landing and great rock!!

Start on two underclings at the far left side. Make a big move and head up and slightly left to finish. Don't dab the tree! Not great. Phillip Booth | Peter

Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.

Start up just right of 'Summer Night City' and move right through a series of two finger pockets before finishing at an obvious jug above 'The House With No Steps' with a fern stuck in it.

As for 'Dentalectomy' but traverse left across the whole sloper rail and finish at the next jug.

Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

From a jug down low, go right and up the short arete.

1,2,3,4 A variant of 'Jerk Off'. From the underclings, go directly to 'Bill Smith' second to last hold. Easier for the tall.

Phillip Booth

Link 'Mr Smiley' into Foam - the big jug is out (use 3 finger pocket next to it).

Phillip Booth

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

Same as Vitamin C, but eliminate hold 3.

Just like 'Hands Off My Detonator' except that you start with a heel hook over left.

Start on the big sloper (1) and gain the tiny sloper edge left of the ear (3) with your right, then make a big move to finish on (4). All other holds are off.

This was original done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

Start off the two thin edges on the right side of the scoop, crimp your way up avoiding any of the holds on 'The Edge Ladder'. (use a tiny right of the triangle edge).

Original done as a 'no heels' problem.

Start on the rail as for 'Nic' (6), then head left through holds (3),(2) and (1), continue left and make a cool move across the scoop to the good edge of 'Verboten' and finish as for 'Verboten'.

Phillip Booth

Sit start on the undercling flake in the roof. M11, R12, L7, R6, M6, R3, L4, R5, M5. Hard first move but it's worth it!

Sit start as for 'Heavens Gate' and link into 'Nicky', staying low and finishing as for 'The Edge Ladder'.

Phillip Booth

'Mike's Five' eliminating the nasty two finger pocket.

Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

If you’re ever at Sissy crag and want to climb a new classic that actually tops out then give this one a shot! (We even made the landing nice and flat 😉).

Warning 29/08/2020: the start holds are moving and will end up breaking on someone. Chossy top.

George Li

As for Left Side but keep heading right to finish on the jug on the face. Peter

1,2,10,11,12

Cool problem I got shown by someone. Probably been done many times before. Heels are in.

A powerful roof problem. From the hueco in the roof, move out to the overlap and follow it to the lip and over.

From the big hueco in the roof head straight out. Same finish as Primordial Soup and Grimacing.

From the right side of the hueco, move right and up to finish over the lip.

On the right hand side of the small orange cave, just left of some big protruding features are some slopers. Start here and do a big move to the lip. Mantle.

In between boulders. Stand start and desperately climb the slab via some side-pulls.

Up the crack feature into the end of Deadringer.

Through roof & mantle.

Stand start left of 'Sharik's Roof' on two small crimps, move up and right to gain the arete and top out. Bring some pads, and some spotters.

The is the must do problem of Belrose. High, scary and beautiful. Climb up the pockets and then negotiate the slab section at the top. Easier at the top for the tall.

Some nice steep climbing out leftwards, then a longish move to the lip followed by a mantle.

Thin and nasty. From Rosary Crucifixion's starting hold, traverse left via a sharp crimp to the jugs (start of 'Stairway to Heaven' - link them together if you're keen).

From the signpost next to Coconut, head right through a trail for about two minutes until you encounter a cliffline. This is the obvious line at the start of the first overhang.

Double dyno from jug at back to lip and mantle through scoop.

Phillip Booth

Sit start on the ledge to the right. Move up under the roof and head left to finish up Stranger Things.