Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lun 10 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 |
★★ Gargoyle
1
2
| 40m | |||||
Climbed P1 then funk. Found the first grade 11 pitch almost harder than the 14 pitch?
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Dom 9 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Nathan Stringfellow | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Just relentless!
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Dom 9 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
14 ~15 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | |||||
Fairly tricky for a 14 I would say! Interesting different sections though, fairly committing moves
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Sab 8 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
13 ~15 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply - con Pat | 120m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Good climbing and well protected but sandbagged with moves well exceeding the listed grade.
Led pitches 1, 3 and 4. |
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Sab 8 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
12 Dura |
★★ Ultion
- con
Pat
1
arrampicata in lead da
Avery Chen
2
arrampicata in lead da
Pat
| 60m | ★ Buona | ||||
Good climbing but the exit pitch caught us by surprise and had us climbing out in the dark.
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Sab 8 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Callitris Corner | |||||||
15 | ★★★ Hangover Layback - con Nathan Stringfellow | 90m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Hangover is not as scary as first appears
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Ven 7 Giu 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
12 ~13 | ★★★ Nervine - con Nathan Stringfellow | 120m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Went for the direct start (15) in guidebook with an awkward move to get off the ground. Great climb! 4th/5th pitch was worthwhile, with easy scramble down to rap chains at the top of the buttress to the right. Double rap (50m + 50m).
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13 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply - con Nathan Stringfellow | 120m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Fun last pitch in the dark!
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Mer 29 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
23 Dura | ★★★ Goblin Mischief | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
I was sooo scared 😱!!! Took me 3 goes to get into the run out section, on my 3rd go I finally pulled off the move to gain the run out and onsighted to the top!!!!
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23 ~24 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch | 45m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Been saving this for a while, glad i stuck the onsight! Certainly felt endless hahaha, thought the original 24 felt pretty right, mega regardless!
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Lun 27 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Buzzard Arete — 2 tentativi | 50m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
The 16 part of the arete is so fun its worth the sandy hard start. Misread and pumped off the 22 traverse pitch at the end, which is insane and committing climbing! Whole wall could use some rebolting tho...
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Dom 26 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
27 Dura | ★★★ yerba mate | ★★★ Classica | |||||
2 star rock with 3 star moves, crux is super unlikely at the grade and contains the greatest knee ive ever dropped. Weirdly been retrobolted into a sport route by Epicol when theres perfect trad. Bolts are getting there...
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Sab 25 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
25 ~26 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish — 3 tentativi | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Hard! Very sustained minging followers by awesome slopes, another great Great Wall route!
|
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Ven 24 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Southern Crags Ultra Mega Mega Block | |||||||
25 Facile | ★★ Ultra Mega Mega Man | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Crazy cryptic comp style boulder into big move, wish it went for longer! Nice in the sun on these cold days
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Ven 24 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Machiavelli | 120m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Just first pitch and a half, hard off the deck!
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19 | ★★ Epicol | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Fun climbing! Weirdly a sport route (that has retrobolted the start and end of yerba mate) where theres perfectly good trad gear.)
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Mar 21 Mag 2024 - Warren Gorge | |||||||
13 | ★ Manhattan | 14m | Media | ||||
Steep enough at the grade.
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Mar 21 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
23 ~24 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief - con Justin Wimmer, Will | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Holy shit this felt hard. So glad Justin led this and I had the opportunity to second, but I can't imagine getting good enough to lead it. Did all moves clean, but needed a rest after the traverse and before the techy crux on the slab. Pretty runout and dangerous if you're not super solid. There are some serious no fall sections on this.
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23 ~24 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
what an amazing route, the moves are awesome and the gear is adequate. but the climbing is hard for 23 in my opinion
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Lun 20 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Hypertension - con Justin Wimmer | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
This is sensational. I can imagine trying to lead it in the future, but another few attempts on TR would be needed before I was game enough to try it! Probably a PP after that before considering a RP... serious stuff. Was nice to use a finger lock at some point there (although only possible after cleaning Justin's cam from the crack, so probably can't use that in the lead, haha)
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Justin Wimmer, Will | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Probably my best experience leading a trad pitch ever. Sublime. I used to be so intimidated by this line it took me 3 trips to try it. While at the top I looked down and couldn't believe what I had just done, haha... For me this was not easy at all. The start was my style, felt easy and I was not as scared as I anticipated. But I was terrified of dropping it later on while doing more unusual moves (for me) involving jams. But what a fucking line. Gear is everywhere and there are jugs and rests to allow you to get those 40m clean. I got to the end of pitch 1 and started cellebrating, until Justin told me that the second pitch was harder and still above me, hahaha... Sheer determination saw me to the top after that, even with very little pieces left on my harness. It will be hard to have a better experience climbing trad in Australia. Test-piece for 19 given the length I think. Wish I could log it as an onsight, but I've seen too many people doing it before. Justin led it earlier in the day and left a piece when cleaning, but I made sure to pull it out and replace it for the real flash, haha...
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23 Facile | ★★★ Against the Wind - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 45m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
quite a cool line with a bit of a runout if you don't have a ball nut or a 00 friend, could result in a ground fall or near at least but all the gear is good.
|
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24 | ★★★ Hypertension - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
very cool climb took me a while to figure out the crux, need to work on my crimps a bit, also I don't think worn-out shoes help for edging. but oh well, still a fun climb
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
An absolutely amazing route. just wow. great gear the movements and variability of climbing styles make this Stella
|
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Dom 19 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
21 |
★★ Orion
- con
Justin Wimmer, Will
1
arrampicata in lead da
Bruno Alves Buzatto
2
arrampicata in lead da
Justin Wimmer
3
arrampicata in lead da
Will
4
arrampicata in lead da
Bruno Alves Buzatto
6
arrampicata in lead da
Justin Wimmer
| 110m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
All pitches onsighted by the leaders, but only Justin did the crux clean, and Will and I had sits on 2nd. That's a really hard crux for 21 BTW! Cool classy route.
|
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13 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 120m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
had to solo up to get a stuck rope, was a fun climb would reccomend.
|
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21 Dura | ★★ Orion - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 110m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
cool line with lots of traversing under roofs. the crux is a very short 2 move wonder (which could be easily aided) hard move for 21 I thought
|
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21 ~20 | ★★ The Good Life - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 40m, 13 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
very fun climb with a short crux at the top.
|
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Sab 18 Mag 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
19 Dura | ★★★ Pine Crack - con Justin Wimmer, Will | 65m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Amazing stuff, and a bold lead by Justin. Pitch 1 has a lot of spice — hard moves off the ground, a daunting crux for me, and then that runout on scoops, wow! The roof in pitch 2 is bloody awesome and relatively well protected. Gotta come back for the lead, but will shit my pants probably. Justin led pitches 1 and 2, then I led the rubbish top out (grade 12?), only to see Justin arrive behind me ropeless!
|
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19 | ★★★ Pine Crack - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 65m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Hard moves off the deck, second pitch is over quickly but fun and exposed
|
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Ven 26 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land — 2 tentativi - con j wiz | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
What a conclusion to an incredible trip. Topped out this incredible climb to the views of a perfect moonarie sunset on the final day of our trip.
Doesn’t get much better than this
|
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Ven 26 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Callitris Corner | |||||||
15 | ★★★ Hangover Layback - con j wiz | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Every pitch had incredible climbing, a true must do.
|
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Dom 21 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief - con j wiz | 50m, 1 | |||||
Absolutely crazy climbing, this and Durban are the main goals for next trip
|
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23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch - con j wiz | 45m, 1 | |||||
An absolute must do. Will be back to lead this next time
|
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Sab 20 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con j wiz | 40m | |||||
Very cool.
|
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Gio 18 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★★ Pagoda Variant - con j wiz | 100m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
the flake feature is cool but feels like it’s peeling off the wall. Still fun though
|
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Gio 18 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Buckets of Jism | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Just didn't quite have it to send today, got stuck trying to be too safe and took a sit getting pumped out trying to work out a move. Felt quite comfortable otherwise.
I top roped, but for the record, the people I spoke to had place a small nut and a very small cam on their leads. |
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17 Dura | ★★ Vortex | 45m | ★ Buona | ||||
Interesting, nice, surprisingly tricky
|
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Mer 17 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Vortex - con j wiz | 45m | ★ Buona | ||||
Second pitch isn’t worth the hour of faff to get back to the start
|
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Mer 17 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
WAY better than the Scorcerer's Apprentice 2nd pitch to Outside Chance. Not entirely clear where it is supposed to go near the top, we broke right to get to Downwind chains at some point
|
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16 |
★★★ Outside Chance P1
1
| 50m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Amazing lead, great photos, great belay spots at both ends. Only thing stopping it being a mega classic is how hard it is not to pull yourself round onto the easy face on the other side of the arrete.
Very happy to lead this, felt pretty comfortable throughout (though I did end up kind of on the outside of the arrete once, just for a wee moment).
NB logging Buckleys as a separate climb because it's listed, instead of 2 pitches for this. |
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Mer 17 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Callitris Corner | |||||||
15 ~16 | ★★ Melodrama | 45m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
The first half near Yanama has some quite tricky moves, especially the first 3 metres. 15 seems sandbagged for that section. It's pretty funny having Yanama wall right there and not putting your foot out, lol. But it's quite a nice section if you don't. Top is easy but nice, great exposure. Very exciting
|
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Mar 16 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★★★ Flying Buttress | 110m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Great intro to the moon
|
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Lun 15 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★★ Pagoda Variant
1
10
30m
2
13
15m
3
15
15m
4
12
43m
| 100m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Man what an epic route. That second pitch was the scariest thing I've done. Good thing the climbing was easy, lol
|
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Dom 14 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Nice lead tick. Much more fun on lead than toprope... being thoughtful, careful and safe made it a very different climb. Late in the day and did a pretty average job placing gear, but climbed pretty comfortably
|
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19 Dura | ★★ The Prince | 33m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Tricky 19, not at all how it looks from the ground.
Lead the second pitch (at grade ~12?) okay.
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14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Had no problem with the roof, but took ages to get up the headwall above the ledge (to the mini ledge below the chimney). Ended up using a bit of rock stuck in a pile of mud as the crux hold, yuck. Top half okay, bottom half great, middle yuck.
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Mar 9 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
24 ~24 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch | 45m, 1 | |||||
Amazing climb. Very stoked to get this one. 24 in the book and thought this was my first 24 send on gear at the time so sticking with that hehehe
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Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
22 |
★★ Swooping Pterodactyls P1
- con
brett
1
| 75m, 11 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Really fun varied pitch
|
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Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★★ Pagoda Variant
- con
Jackie Bernardi
| 100m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Big flake
|
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Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land - con brett | 45m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Mixed feelings.
Very engaging and technical moves on a very aesthetic face however only having the guide book description to hand when I was at the moon the stars and description I perceived the route to be well protected. I think an R rating would be apt.
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24 Dura | ★★★ Hypertension - con Jackie Bernardi | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Went to the anchors on the right up the finger crack on the right variation, tried the boring go left at the horizontal and up the crag original version couple of days prior this is a far better way to end the climb.
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Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
23 Dura | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch - con The ManCarrot | 45m, 1 | |||||
Left a couple of bits of gear in the easy climbing in the crack before joining the route proper from the previous attempt
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Ven 5 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Luke C | 50m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Great climbing with lot of exposure.
|
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Mer 3 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Luke C | 40m | |||||
Super hard and scary start on nuts, it took Luke sometime... but he got to the top and I followed
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Mar 2 Apr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★★ Pagoda Variant
- con
Luke C
1
10
30m
2
13
15m
3
15
15m
4
12
43m
| 100m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Climbing the flake was a unique experience!
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Dom 31 Mar 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Callitris Corner | |||||||
15 Dura | ★★ Moondance - con Laura Hodgson | 35m | |||||
Pumpy good times.
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Sab 30 Mar 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Jaffle Wall | |||||||
15 ~16 | Night of the Long Jaffles — 2 tentativi - con Laura Hodgson | 35m | |||||
Struggled on lower crux, couldn’t find a way through…
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Sab 30 Mar 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
13 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply - con Matt Sheppard | 120m | |||||
Led pitches 1 & 4
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13 ~15 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply - con Laura Hodgson | 120m | |||||
Tough moves in places well exceeding grade 13.
Led pitch 2 and 3
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18 | ★★★ Miles from Nowhere - con Nikhilesh Sharma | 100m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Struggles psychologically on the first pitch with fear, but did it clean. I could never haved lead the second pitch, Nik did a fantastic job! The chimney was very enjoyable.
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Dom 17 Dic 2023 - Warren Gorge | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spanish Flea - con Nathan Stringfellow | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Non stop engagement
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18 ~19 | ★ Succession - con Nathan Stringfellow | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Good whip high up past the bulk of the work, thank Jesus that the cam held phewf
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Mar 28 Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land - con Laura | 45m | |||||
Brilliant! Could do with a lower off to save the choss phaffing at the top
|
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17 | Rush Variant - con Laura | 20m | Media | ||||
Nice belay cave
|
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17 | ★★ Rush - con Laura | 60m | |||||
Awkward pea pod thing detracts from an otherwise nice line
|
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Mar 28 Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
12 | ★★ Ultion - con Laura | 60m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Quality rock
|
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17 | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct Finish - con Laura | 110m | Media | ||||
Probably a better finish
|
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15 | ★★★ Flying Buttress - con Laura | 110m | Media | ||||
Really not that good
|
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Sab 25 Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Jaffle Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Take me to the river - con Laura | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Consistently pleasant
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20 | ★★ Cup Cake - con Laura | 20m, 1 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Great moves
|
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Lun 6 Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Kris Penn | 40m | ★ Buona | ||||
Steep and pumpy with some really cool moves!
|
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Lun 6 Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Buzzard Arete - con Kris Penn | 50m | |||||
16A1 Didn’t complete
|
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Ven 27 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Callitris Corner | |||||||
15 | ★★★ Hangover Layback | 90m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Pure fun!! Also the least intimidating and airy out of all the easy Multis we did. Very comfy belays as well!!
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Gio 26 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Incredible route!! Unfortunately didn’t know about bolted anchor above first pitch and as I only had single rack stopped 5 meters before on ledge at arete and built anchor. Then I didn’t want to screw myself up with rope drag to the top so I went through an easier section to discover the bolts were 5m away 🙈 top roped languish in anguish (stunning climbing as well) after and did the last 5m of the route proper:)
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Mar 24 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct Finish | 110m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
So cool! Not doing the direct would be such a shame! But definitely very committing for the grade!
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Dom 15 Ott 2023 - Devil's Peak | |||||||
The Point | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Fajita — 2 tentativi - con Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
This is pretty cool, but I'm confused. The move after traversing under the roof and clipping the 5th bolt feels impossible. Much harder than anything on Spewing — has somethingn come off? Which "better holds"? haha... I found a good left hadnd to allow me to pull the lip, but that's after aiding on the draw like there's no tomorrow. I can't free that move ever... And the last move to the chains is also pretty hard. Had a big humble pie on this one!
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24 | ★★ Spewing - con Emily Hoffmann | 25m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
This is awesome!! Loved the slab and found the roof less hard than it looks. I had the chains from climbing sooky so tried it on TR — it will be a very different game on lead in that slab though!! There seems to be small gear between the hangers, so maybe next time if I'm brave enough!!
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17 | ★★★ Sooky Sooky La La - con Emily Hoffmann | 22m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
This is absolutely sensational! A bit of everything, but the step right onto the blank wall is the EPIC part. Find those underclings that make the impossible possible and go for glory (I used a slightly over cammed #4 there) the bolts at the top are ok , but the fixies were not. I managed to open the gates on one of them (when the screw part of the gate split in two) and I left an aluminium screw gate biner of mine to replace that one, but couldn’t open or replace the others by hand - need pliers next time.
|
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Dom 15 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
infinity's better
|
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Dom 15 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack | 65m | |||||
up there as one of the best ive done
|
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Lun 9 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Jaffle Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Goodvibes Direct | 22m | |||||
Barefoot friction
|
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Lun 9 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
The nerves kicked in a little while watching Jack lead this... Alas no falls for either of us. What a stunning route
|
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Lun 9 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Jaffle Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Goodvibes Direct | 22m | |||||
Great climbing
|
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Sab 7 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Bit more dialled? Also a bit more pumped...
|
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24 | ★★★ Hypertension | 45m, 3 | |||||
Thin! Bolt for bolt then bailed into RH as we were using those anchors and the pendulum was growing
|
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24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Epic line. Several tricky bits on the bottom half. Managed to get it first go with some beta from Jack, although had tried the top half when coming in from Hypertension.
|
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
That top crack so nilly spat me out. Was pretty relived I hadn't tried to lead it Thoroughly enjoyed the bottom half of this, yet to learn the way of the jam
|
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Sab 7 Ott 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | |||||
First climb at the moon. super enjoyable climbing on some amazing rock. Entertaining watching Jack squeeze his way up the (optional) offwidth
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13 |
★★ Gargoyle P1
1
13
40m
| 40m | |||||
P1 then into funk
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Ven 29 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
24 Facile | ★★★ Fingernickin' 1st pitch - con Yimbo | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Having learnt absolutely nothing from Expiry Date two days prior, Yimbo decided Fingernicken’ would be a good choice. I prepared myself for 3 hours of belaying his aid mission.
To both our surprises he freed every move, then I managed to snag the flash on second! Another lap to sus out the gear and stances was followed by an impressive redpoint by Yimbo. With the sun setting my repoint attempt would have to wait for the morning. Went first shot, stoked! Wasn’t intending to jump the trad redpoint grade on this trip, let alone by four grades, but I’ll take it! |
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Lun 25 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
The Ramparts | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Miles from Nowhere - con Yimbo | 100m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Excellent climbing up the corner with a cool layback crux and some fun(?) chimneys at the top!
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21 ~20 | ★★ The Good Life - con Yimbo | 40m, 13 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Yimbo ran up this and just left the QuickDraws in the wall because he couldn’t be bothered dogging up after taking his unannounced victory whip off the top!
This is a stellar route which sees you up either side of the arête. Take a DMM 4 / 5 for the start and you’ll be well protected before the first bolt. The crux at the top is great to work out! |
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Dom 24 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Checkers Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Pine Crack
- con
Yimbo
1
arrampicata in lead da
Yimbo
A great sustained pitch with cool climbing through some big scoops in the rock. Yimbo veered left toward the top and probably turned it into a 20. There was a seam of friable rock up there which when I reached I thought was just sand on a hold. Dusting the hold rubbed the damned thing away! I dug myself a jug and prayed it wouldn’t blow!
2
arrampicata in lead da
Robert Hartley
Down climbed about 3 times before committing to the push through the roof! Nearly blew the onsight because I’d pumped myself out in the process. Super cool sequence through the roof and then easily to the top. | 65m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Awesome route! Yim and I were undecided what to jump on after Flying Buttress but I’m glad we picked this!
Both pitches are excellent, with P1 being more sustained and P2 being slightly stiffer. |
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Dom 24 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
15 ~17 | ★★★ Flying Buttress - con Yimbo | 110m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Amazing introduction to Moonarie!
Pitches:
Easy scramble up to the start of the first pitch proper.
Grade is accurate if you shoot around the roof to the right. Really fun 3D chimney climbing up to a peg belay.
Sweet moves up and through the roof! Very tight if you’ve got a small pack on. No need for big gear to protect the roof, a #4 (DMM) does the job. Closer to 17 than 15 as suggested by others.
The crawl back and forth at the top was great fun. I’ll never forget seeing Yim peering down at me through the top crack as I shuffled through the dirt.
The exit pitch. An easy solo if you go up and left to the major ledge. We roped up in any case. |
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Sab 2 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
This is something else!
We top roped this off the chains on a 60m rope, which JUST gets to the ground when weighted. Huge swing. A fall in first 6m sans spotter would be likely to hit rocks, tree or belayer. I feel like I sent two 20m grade 19 climbs, but I only got half way up. One for the bucket list... 3+ stars for the moves, the consistency, the location, the duration... full package |
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance | 50m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Two 3-star moves followed by a run out scramble. Second pitch (Scorcerers) unremarkable. I think it could be climbed up the face at a similar (consistent 16-17) grade, esp as a second, but none of us bothered
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Ven 1 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Flying Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Buckets of Jism | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Ripper. Didn't notice the view until the way back down.
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Ven 1 Set 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Gargoyle Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - con Nathan Stringfellow | 40m | Media | ||||
Great view, average climb. Earns its grade solely for a tricky top out up the crack.
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Some nice moves, some awkward moves, some nice rock, some big loose blocks. Worth a star for the view and the rap. Not sold on the climb. The face climbing to the left (no named route) was more pleasant, at least until the bad rock. Maybe one grade harder.
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