Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
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Lun 20 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Felt like climbing on another planet
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25 |
★★★ The Free Route P2
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Ven 17 Feb 2023 - The Paradiso | |||||||
27 | ★★ Snooze and You Lose | 35m, 14 | |||||
Did it without any trad gear. First 27 onsight. Not a trad climb dont know how to log as sport climb
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Ven 17 Feb 2023 - Mount Brown Main Face | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Talk is Cheap | 220m, 99 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Gio 16 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Free Route - con Mattia Fornari | 65m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Got to lead both pitches. Amazing 😱 All the moves go with good links. Cya next year🥰
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Gio 16 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
16 | ★ The Moai Escape | 60m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site | 30m, 2 | |||||
Mer 15 Feb 2023 - Mount Brown Main Face | |||||||
24 Dura | ★★★ Talk is Cheap - con Mattia Fornari | 220m, 99 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Mar 14 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
Fortescue Bay Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Eeeeeeee (The Dolphin Noise) - con Kiera Schulz | 30m | |||||
Good fun, Kiera's first FA. Quality climbing.
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Lun 13 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Free Route | 65m, 8 | |||||
2nd shot. oh so close to onsight, should have rested a bit longer after seconding deep play rather than jumping straight on.
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24 | ★★★ Deep Play | 20m, 6 | |||||
Lun 13 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
Canoe Bay Crag | |||||||
17 | ★★ Rinse, Repeat - con Madi R | 18m | |||||
16 | ★★ Salt Flakes - con Madi R | 18m | |||||
19 | ★★ Delicious Fish - con Madi R | 18m | |||||
20 | ★★ Zodiac - con Madi R | 22m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Dom 12 Feb 2023 - Cape Raoul | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer | 40m, 12 | |||||
16 | ★ The Wedding Cake Return Pitch | 35m | |||||
8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape | 300m | |||||
18 | ★★ Jihad | 30m | |||||
18 | ★ Rain Of Terror | 30m | |||||
Dom 12 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play | 20m, 6 | |||||
Head down getting blasted with water... absolutely radical
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25 | ★★★ The Free Route | 65m, 8 | |||||
Our first pitch was deep play, only used a couple of nuts and and a small blue cam, otherwise all bolts! So happy that training has paid off.
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Dom 12 Feb 2023 - The Furnace / Land's End | |||||||
15 | ★★ Dauntless | 110m | |||||
Sab 11 Feb 2023 - The Parrot Shelf Cliffs | |||||||
17 | ★ Zephyr | 12m | |||||
13 | ★★ Cracker | 14m | |||||
21 | ★ Brimful of Asher | 14m | |||||
19 | ★ Dog Barf Road | 14m | |||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 14m | |||||
Mer 8 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
20 | ★★ Blunt Instrument | 20m, 2 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up | 35m, 8 | |||||
Mer 8 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play - con Tyler | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Base was wet so started from the third bolt.
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25 |
★★★ The Free Route P2
- con
Tyler
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
One sit on the crux. Need to go back
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Dom 5 Feb 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
Canoe Bay Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Anchovy Arete - con Alex Lawson | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
A little spicier than I remember. But it's all there.
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16 Facile | ★★ Salt Flakes - con Alex Lawson | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
19 ~18 Dura | ★★ Delicious Fish - con Alex Lawson | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
At the hard end of the grade. Delicious!
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16 | ★★ Salt Flakes - con Chris Speer | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Great climb. Some really cool moves. Will do again.
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19 | ★★ Delicious Fish - con Chris Speer | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Good fun. Safe good gear. Finger cracking is mandatory. Delicious.
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Mar 31 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
25 |
★★★ The Free Route
1
25
25m
2
25
40m
| 65m, 8 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Did deep play as pitch one
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Lun 30 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Candlestick | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Corner Route - con Poppy | 110m | |||||
Lun 30 Gen 2023 - Cape Raoul | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer | 40m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Pwoah! So unique.
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8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape | 300m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
So fun
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18 | ★★ Jihad | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
18 | ★ Rain Of Terror | 30m | Media | ||||
Dom 29 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Candlestick | |||||||
18 Dura |
★★★ Corner Route
- con
Dean Bailey
1
18
30m
2
17
30m
3
15
25m
4
15
20m
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
What a hectic adventure. Dean did the swim, set up a lower tyrolean to get the gear across and then I zipped over without getting wet. This was not hugely beneficial as it started faintly spitting and did so untill after the first (crux) pitch. The first two pitches eat gear though, I had a double rack of cams and a set of dmm torque hexes (which were definitely helpful), only used a few medium to large wires.
Was lucky enough to lead all the pitches.
At the third we followed the topo from the latest Tassie selected climbs: traversing out from the belay ledge under the arête then up the crack. The benefit of this is that you reduce chances of getting your tag line stuck. If I had my time again I would stick to the crack from the belay straight up untill you can squeeze through to the right. Summited, waved to the tourists at the lookout and tour boat and came back down to the higher tyrolean. The hangers here are currently VERY crowded with old rusted shite. We used the two twisted rapides backed up while the first person was lowered across. Got the tension absolutely perfect. Maybe a couple of arm spans less than as tight as you can get? Dean used the third rope to lower down. Pulled and flaked the rope mid line without issue. When releasing the tyrolean the rope got momentarily stuck in the boulders just below the bolts, but it released thank god. 10/10. May you climb with good fortune adventurer. |
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Dom 29 Gen 2023 - Cape Raoul | |||||||
22 Dura | ★★★ Pole Dancer | 40m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Dom 29 Gen 2023 - The Parrot Shelf Cliffs | |||||||
21 | ★ Brimful of Asher — 2 tentativi - con dave, ella, tjaart | 14m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Big span.
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17 Facile | ★ True Grit - con dave, ella, tjaart | 14m | Media | ||||
8 ~9 | ★ Polly - con dave, ella, tjaart | 14m | ★ Buona | ||||
Sab 28 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
It's hard to seperate this climb from the entire experience is being at the moai in pounding surf. Wet rock made this a spicy but still bloody awesome accent.
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Ven 27 Gen 2023 - The Paradiso | |||||||
20 | ★ Lost Souls | 13m | |||||
Ven 27 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - con Anita, Marco de Jongh, Gabrielle Austen | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Just a magnificent day out. Good climbing on good rock (flake didn't seem loose to me?) in an outrageous position. Awesome.
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Gio 26 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Free Route - con ChiaChiaHsu | 65m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
2nd pitch, Mega classic.
Amazing climb with an incredible view. Crazy location and memorable approach/descent (Tyrolean traverse), tho super windy when climbing.
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24 | ★★★ Deep Play - con ChiaChiaHsu | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
1st pitch
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Gio 26 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
20 Facile | ★★ Blunt Instrument | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
This was really fun!
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22 ~23 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up | 35m, 8 | ★ Buona | ||||
The 20 part is amazing fun etc, a million stars. The 22 part is contrived, awful and just not fun at all.
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Mer 25 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play | 20m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Big swell + just after high tide meant the bottom section was basically under water haha. Started from the 2nd bolt after some difficult big swinging to get established. Will be back when the tides down! Awesome day out 😎
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25 Dura |
★★★ The Free Route P2
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Pumpy number. Extra difficulty managing the rap rope. Had a few sits through the crux. So sick, will definitely be coming back for the send.
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Mer 25 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
16 | ★ The Moai Escape | 60m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site | 30m, 2 | |||||
20 | ★★ Blunt Instrument | 20m, 2 | |||||
16 | ★ The Moai Escape - con Dean Bailey | 60m | ★ Buona | ||||
Despite the choss, actually not too bad.
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18 Facile | ★★★ Sacred Site - con Dean Bailey | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Oh man, this is it. This is the climbing you are looking for. Immaculate position, exposure, all the gear you could want. One to remember fondly.
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20 | ★★ Blunt Instrument - con Dean Bailey | 20m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
A bit spoodgy down the bottom, not surprising as the belayer was getting sprayed by the waves. Sticking direct up the crack is hard af as well, but likewise can be made easier going our left.
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Mer 25 Gen 2023 - Mount Brown Main Face | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Talk is Cheap
- con
JakeSouthen
2
24
35
3
22
40
4
20
20
5
23
30
6
22
25
7
21
20
8
17
25
9
8
10
| 210m, 99 | ★ Buona | ||||
Conditions depending; this might not be as chossy as it felt at first blush; as it was- most of it felt like sandy rock basted in cold wet vaseline.
Stars for the position and the movement, and the mission of bolting this thing; but reaching a hand-jam-rest that you've been eyeing up, only to find it full of cold wet grease that sticks to your hands and is immune to chalk, left me dispirited to say the least. Hopefully it cleans up with some more traffic, lots of loose flakes and rock dust around, and maybe we just got unlucky with the spooge. We set a 70m fixed line to cut the raps in half, and stashed water and food at the halfway mark. Pre-equipped the 24, and then the second-to-rap clipped the rope above them at halfway on the final rap, so as not to launch the rope into the sea as we pulled it. Definitely bring a helmet, and keep a tight-squint while belaying to avoid the rock chips raining down from above. Took us about 9-10 hours from car to car. very impressed with Jake's onsight of pitch 2 despite it being covered in cold grease, and I took a king whip through the roof on pitch 3, which was a real thrill. Pitch 4 and 5 were 3 star, would repeat. Finally, to add to the drama of the day, I opted to leave my pocket unzipped on the rap for a bit of added spice. Predictably resulting in the launching of my phone straight out of said pocket, from the very top, down into the deep dark abyss. All in all, a long day of type 2 fun. would recommend. |
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24 |
★★★ Talk is Cheap
- con
Lean Listerine
| 210m, 99 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Fairly smooth sailing today on this classic route. Insane movement in an outrageous position!! Rock definitely could do with an exfoliation haha. Route was suffering from pretty bad spooge.. Which I guess is usual? Made pulling through all the cruxes super exciting. Sadly pulled on cams during pitch 6 and couldn’t get the completely clean send. All things considered; very happy with the day. About as fun as it gets!!
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Mar 24 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
Canoe Bay Crag | |||||||
18 | ★ Sea Legs | 13m | Media | ||||
18 | ★★ Parlay | 15m, 7 | ★ Buona | ||||
Mar 24 Gen 2023 - Cape Raoul | |||||||
20 | ★ Autopilot | 25m | |||||
8 |
★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape
1
2
3
| 300m | |||||
18 | ★★ Jihad | 30m | |||||
18 | ★ Rain Of Terror | 30m | |||||
Lun 23 Gen 2023 - Cape Raoul | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer | 40m, 12 | |||||
8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape | 300m | |||||
18 | ★★ Jihad | 30m | |||||
18 | ★ Rain Of Terror | 30m | |||||
8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape - con Dean Bailey | 300m | Media | ||||
22 |
★★★ Pole Dancer
- con
Dean Bailey
1
17
2
22
| 40m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
The positions are not overstated, certainly one of the most incredible routes I've gotten up. You cannot get much better than this.
Got thrown off by false chalk beta at the first(?) horizontal. Couldn't reverse the moves, fell, only small rest then went to the top.
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8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape - con Dean Bailey | 300m | Media | ||||
Could be nice to do as a solo without all the packs etc.
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18 | ★★ Jihad - con Dean Bailey | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
What a position as you breach the Col! Amazing exposure and more quality jams/ climbing.
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18 | ★ Rain Of Terror - con Dean Bailey | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Superb jams and pro
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Lun 23 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
Canoe Bay Crag | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Novelty Climb - con Chris Speer | 15m | |||||
Genuinely hilarious
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17 | ★★ Rinse, Repeat - con Chris Speer | 18m | |||||
Was in the area, coildnt help myself
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22 | ★★ Lucky Charms - con Chris Speer | 20m | |||||
Retro bolted immediately after the send
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19 | ★ Changeling - con Chris Speer | 20m | |||||
17 | ★★ Swallowing Tommy's Nuts - con Chris Speer | 18m | |||||
18 | ★ Lost Bounty - con Chris Speer | 22m | |||||
20 | ★★ Zodiac - con Chris Speer | 22m | |||||
A great line by Chris Speer
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10 | Coco Pops - con Chris Speer | 20m | |||||
Quite solid rocks, would need to bring in big cams for this one
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17 | ★★ The Bow - con Chris Speer | 16m | |||||
Better than it looks, climbs well
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Dom 22 Gen 2023 - The Parrot Shelf Cliffs | |||||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 14m | ★ Buona | ||||
15 | Diller | 12m | Media | ||||
18 | ★★ Prince of Darkness | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Dom 22 Gen 2023 - Cape Raoul | |||||||
18 ~17 | ★★ Inshallah - con Leah Soo | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
18 | ★★ Jihad - con Leah Soo | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Dom 22 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Moai | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site | 30m, 2 | |||||
Dom 22 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
Canoe Bay Crag | |||||||
14 | French Canadian Canoe Corner - con Fraser | 15m | ★ Buona | ||||
19 ~18 Dura | ★★ Delicious Fish - con Fraser | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
If you're tall this is easier.
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22 | ★★ Lucky Charms - con Fraser | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Tough finish.
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Dom 22 Gen 2023 - Fortescue Bay | |||||||
The Totem Pole | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
A cool start up the tote with waves and a heap of seals, good shit
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