★★★ California Dream 18

Rap 60m or so from the two glue in staples just over the edge (you can scramble to them safely). You will rap 'into space' over the roofs. Make a semi-hanging belay at the start of the steeper climbing. L1 (18, 25m(?)): head up the steep hand and fist cracks on excellent rock, strait through the roofs (easier than it looks), with a step right at the crux. Belay when it eases off. L2 (14 35m(?)): an easy pitch on poorer rock.

?FA Rob Wall / Konstanze Stuebner, Dec '19. Its hard to believe noone has climbed this, as the first pitch is really three star - the jamming feels more like USA than WA !. Anyone out there know?

There is no established ethic. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.