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Vulture Street Wall

Stagionalità

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da West Cape Howe

The 4WD track can vary greatly in condition. A shovel may be needed to fill in some of those holes!

Etica ereditato da West Cape Howe

There is no established ethic. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.

Vie

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Grado Via

Pitch 1, 30m 22. Go up trending left for 15m over some cruisey terrain to a short traverse before continuing up to the base of a thin crack. Up the thin crack onto the ‘Tombstone’ ledge. Small cams in the crack. Jonas Hollingworth – 01 Jun 14

Pitch 2. Finish as per final pitch on ‘Tombstone’.

FA: Jonas Hollingworth, 1 Giu 2014

Thank God I’m An Atheist 68m 18 Pitch 1, 33m 18. A variation avoiding the thin crack on ‘Epitaph’. From the thin crack continue left to another vertical crack leading to the ‘Tombstone’ ledge. Jonas Hollingworth – 01 Jun 14

Pitch 2. Same as pitch 2 of Tombstone.

FA: Jonas Hollingworth, 1 Giu 2014

Start from below Plumbline and travers left for 20 m and belay from below vertical crack. Second pitch is gold. Layback or fist jam your way up to nice hand jamming and finger locking. Belay from large ledge then go up chimney and keep going to top. First two pitches can be combined into one mega-pitch, but rope drag needs to be managed

Steep line right of Vulture Street below the overhanging corner. Follow 4 BRs plus natural pro to DBB

Some interesting discussions around bolting ethics: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climbs-west-cape-howe/

FA: J. Nevin, K. Hartley & J. O'Herlihy, 2011

Dreadnought, Grd 20, 40m, 5 bolts (need hangers) + micro to number three cams. Ronald Master, Mike Taylor, Dec 2012 Approach Abseil from the P bolts at the top of Dark Arts (adjacent to the gully forming the vulture street wall). The climb starts about 15m to the right of Vulture Street and about 10m above on a terrace in the gully (to the left of Dark Arts). The start is a shallow groove/crack that is between Vampire Street and the gully and heads straight up the wall to the blunt nose/arête on step fantastic rock. Description The climb starts in an awkward and strenuous shallow flared crack. Clip the bolt and layback/jam up passing a second bolt. Lunge for the horizontals and up to a good number 2 or 3 cam in some big horizontal breaks. Stay on the wall moving up past another 3 bolts over technical and sustained ground on shallow rounded horizontal breaks and some sharp crimps. The final move of the crux section is a lunge for a shallow v shaped alcove on the blunt arête. Pull into this placing a small cam and head up the steep juggy blunt arête/nose with plenty of cam placements. Belay on Dark Arts descent bolts and a large cam.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-west-cape-vulture-street-wall/

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