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The Mincer Area

Stagionalità

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da West Cape Howe

The 4WD track can vary greatly in condition. A shovel may be needed to fill in some of those holes!

Etica ereditato da West Cape Howe

There is no established ethic. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.

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South Coast Rock description could be wrong. See update from first ascender:

* Better Than Chocolate (75m, 21) – correction of route description from email by Scott Camps, May 2013: I clarify a route I climbed at West Cape Howe back in 1993 Better Than Chocolate which I then graded 19. It is incorrectly reported in Shane Richardson’s South Coast Rock guide to the left of its actual position. When it should have actually been described as the shallow finger crack corner immediately to the right of description in the guide, then ascends the middle of the beautiful chocolate wall left of The Mincer. In 2006 I repeated this route and believed it to be more like 21 but was appalled to find it had been mindlessly retro bolted?

The Last Goodbye, Ronald Master, Ian Johnson, Gd 21, two pitches 55m, 13 glue in bolts (hangers needed) two DBB Approach: Walk to the mincer and at the top of the long face you will find two P bolts in the centre of the face between the Mincer and Striptease. Abseil from these down to a large ledge about 10m above the water with a double bolt belay. You will need a full rack of cams up to number 5 camelot including some micros plus a set of wires up to size 6 or 7 rocks. Pitch 1, 25m, gd 19, 8 bolts. Start from the ledge and launch up the wall following a series of in-cut edges and flakes. Head straight up the wall following the flakes and bolts up solid rock with some interesting and fairly sustained moves. Aim for the belay station slightly to right of the alcove. Pitch 2, 30m, gd 20, 5 bolts. Move up and slightly left into the beautiful hand/finger crack. Several good wires and cams can be place before clipping the bolt about 10m up. The crux is found at the top of the crack where a couple of long dynamic moves are needed to gain a good hold. Trend slightly left into the horizontal break and another good cam placement before clipping the next bolt. Move up the wall on slopping holds before clipping another bolt and some good cams. Move over easier ground clipping two more bolts as you go and a couple of cams.

Rap 60m or so from the two glue in staples just over the edge (you can scramble to them safely). You will rap 'into space' over the roofs. Make a semi-hanging belay at the start of the steeper climbing. L1 (18, 25m(?)): head up the steep hand and fist cracks on excellent rock, strait through the roofs (easier than it looks), with a step right at the crux. Belay when it eases off. L2 (14 35m(?)): an easy pitch on poorer rock.

?FA Rob Wall / Konstanze Stuebner, Dec '19. Its hard to believe noone has climbed this, as the first pitch is really three star - the jamming feels more like USA than WA !. Anyone out there know?

FA: me?

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