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Paroi Laurin - La Macaza Guide

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Table of contents

1. Paroi Laurin - La Macaza

Summary:
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Stagionalità

16 routes in Crag

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.344445, -74.659131

sommario

A small crag with pleasant easy to low-moderate routes.

descrizione

A small (20m), granite(ish) slab with a variety of features. The climbing tends more technical than physical.

The base is flat and well-shaded by trees, and the crag faces east, giving it shade much of the day. And, with the easy routes, and short approach, would make it a good crag to bring kids to.

The top of the cliff can be accessed for setting top-ropes by following a trail up the left side of the cliff.

limitazioni per l'accesso

This is an FQME crag, so you should have an FQME annual memebership or day-membership to climb here. See https://fqme.qc.ca/adherer/

The base is part of a Maple sugar farm, the crag is sometimes used by a local camp, and there are cottages in the area. Please respect all of these.

avvicinamento

The crag is located just west of the intersection of chemin du Lac-Caché and chemin des Pruches. Turn (right) onto Chemin des Pruches, where the right shoulder widens enough for 3 cars to park and park.

Walk back to chemin du Lac-Caché, turn right, go a few 10s of meters where a trail will climb up off the left side of the road, past an FQME access sign. Follow the obvious trail about 200m to the crag.

etica

FQME

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Madame Laurin

Starts just left of a low roof, up a small pillar.

Low crux, then easy-going above.

FA: Martine Lavallee & Pierre Cornellier, 2021

5.7 Sportiva 19m, 8
2 Macadam

Start just to the right of the low roof.

Similarly, a low crux, then easy going above.

FA: Peggy Trousseau & David Marche, 2021

5.8 Sportiva 19m, 8
3 Mes patates sont su'l feu

Start off a small block. A bit steep at the start, then eases off.

FA: Pierre Cornellier & Guillame Therien, 2021

5.7 Sportiva 19m, 9
4 Camel

Climbs the large blocky crack.

FA: David Marche & Guillame Therrien, 2021

5.7 Sportiva 19m, 8
5 Monsieur Laurin

Glue-ins.

5.8 Sportiva 19m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Belzébuth

Starts up some blocks to a low small roof, then through a notch in a wider mid-cliff roof (with some interesting stemming).

FA: Jacques Filion, Daniel Courtemanche, Yvon Desy & Louise Landry, 1974

Mant: Valerie Fluet & Barabara Estor, 2021

5.9 Sportiva 19m, 10
7 La Transe

Nice climb, with a small roof, some slab, and interesting climbing.

Does not have own anchor -- anchor off the tree directly above the climb, or traverse left to share the anchor.

FA: Anne Sarrazin, 2021

5.10a Sportiva 21m, 8
8 Gemme au Départ

Starts up a section of wall covered in small crystals.

FA: 2021

5.9 Sportiva 19m, 8
9 Salut Québec

Start up a right-facing corner protected by glue-ins. Requires gear for the final bit -- a couple good, but spaced, horizontals.

Was originally climbed entirely on gear, but the start was poorly protected and re-equipped in 2021.

FA: Jacques Fillon, Daniel Courtemanche, Yvon Desy & Louise Landry

5.8 Trad mista 19m, 5
10 Waterploof

The technical start on small holds is the crux, but pulling the small roof is also a challenge.

FA: Elise Marche, 2021

5.10b Sportiva 19m, 9
11 Les Dents de la Mer

Pulls a surprisingly steep feeling bulge just off the ground, with a crack full of crystalline teeth.

FA: Remi Marche, 2021

5.9 Sportiva 19m, 7
12 Variant du Diedre

Climb the somewhat-dirty dihedral "Les Dents de la Mer", to the same anchor.

Could use a brushing, and might have enough gear placement to go on lead.

5.8 Corda dall'alto 19m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Yes Weekend

Up some cracks, step right, then up again. The top seems steep, but there's always holds where you need them.

FA: 2021

5.9 Sportiva 18m, 8
14 Inconnu a cette addresse

A top-rope right of "Yes Weekend". Could also use brushing.

5.8 Corda dall'alto 18m
15 Le Couloir

The obvious dihedral, finishing up cracks in the upper face.

Again, could use a bit of brushing, and if leading, you probably want a nut-tool, as some of the placements may require a bit of digging/cleaning.

5.6 Trad 18m
16 La Mort du Bouleau

Not well-established or well-defined. Maybe a partly-completed project. Three glue-ins and an anchor, on cleaned rock, are visible near the top of the cliff. But, below that... dirt, moss, lichen...

Might be 5.8?

SconosciutoProgetto 20m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.6 Le Couloir Trad 18m
5.7 Camel Sportiva 19m, 8
Madame Laurin Sportiva 19m, 8
Mes patates sont su'l feu Sportiva 19m, 9
5.8 Inconnu a cette addresse Corda dall'alto 18m
Macadam Sportiva 19m, 8
Monsieur Laurin Sportiva 19m, 9
Salut Québec Trad mista 19m, 5
Variant du Diedre Corda dall'alto 19m
5.9 Belzébuth Sportiva 19m, 10
Gemme au Départ Sportiva 19m, 8
Les Dents de la Mer Sportiva 19m, 7
Yes Weekend Sportiva 18m, 8
5.10a La Transe Sportiva 21m, 8
5.10b Waterploof Sportiva 19m, 9
? La Mort du Bouleau SconosciutoProgetto 20m, 3
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