Ascensioni in Geißleinwand

Bedingungen leider schlechter als erhofft.

Fiddled around a bit too much with the gear for my taste, the width of the crack really is quite inhomogeneous. To top it off, I somehow messed up in the crux at the end, so I got a little pumped. Placed 6 cams and a good nut, though, so I technically had more protection than with using the bolts. ;-)

#repeat

I reckon last time I didn't wear anything that would easily catch in sharp spikes of rock, but the new shirt I wore today surely did … :-/ Guess I'll have to stitch those holes before they get any larger. #repeat #warmup

Realized too late that I could do it on trad gear, but on the other hand it was a nice refresher.

The theme, "routes, parts of which I already climbed", continues. The cruxy start felt hugely different this time, though, because I forgot all the beta and just intuitively used the crack, which turned out to be way smoother than how I remembered my previous beta to be. From there it's a separate route, following a slightly overhanging crack dihedral. Great moves, good protection. The little runout at the end is chill. #lastrouteoftheday

Took me several tries, very hard sequence in the upper part after the rest. Awesome route anyway...

Chossy start, unfortunately, but the rest is in good, black rock. Quite hard to read, lots of small, mediocre holds. Apparently hasn't been climbed in a while, the holds were all super dusty. Didn't make it easier, really.

Unusual crack line with a bubble-like, sometimes sharp, cauliflower tufa structure. I climbed the first part as a chimney. Then easy traverse on underclings and on layback jugs over the bulge. Better don't wear expensive clothes on this one! ;-)

Couldn't leave without climbing this line again. #repeat #lastrouteoftheday

I was very surprised when I realised I had just climbed the overhanging crack start first try and without really thinking about it. Probably would have been hard to reproduce the sequence (I reached up high with the left hand from the undercling, then somehow toehooked blindly under the roof, pulled on a crimp on the right and wedged my knee into the dihedral), so I just had to finish it right away. Luckily, it worked out, although I almost fell off due to losing my right foot when I reached out to a jug on the right. Cool crack start and good wall climbing on pockets and crimps above.

Tried a few variants in the crux and chose a (relatively safe) dynamic one in the end. Should work out if I'm not too tired already.

Should've been the send … I got my finger stuck in the jug at the second bolt, so I had to fumble around for a while until I could continue, then didn't stick the dyno. Started again from the nasty pocket and got through the crux and to the top relatively easily.

I was totally lost in the overhanging finish, even though I had a well-placed nut by Christoph Rauch. Exhaustion was a factor, but this was definitely hard for me.

I wanted to warm up Gehversuche but went the wrong way and ended up here. Right when I struggled in the crux, Christoph Rauch made me aware of my mistake, so I decided stop and warm up properly first. I also put in an extension at the last bolt, which can only be clipped rather late.

Guidebook says 7+, I say 8-. Good route!

Good crack line, a bit short like all of the routes in the left part. Crux towards the end.

Awesome layback crack. Felt easier than 7, but I like this stuff. The hardest part is getting out left from under the roof in the end, but with some good footwork you can reach the hidden jugs.

One short difficult section around the fourth bolt with two mediocre pockets in an awkward position. In the end I slapped to the good slopers up right before clipping.

Great, relatively homogenous (after the second bolt) climbing on smaller pockets, with a nice, easy (if you do it right) bulge to the anchor.

Cool little traverse sequence below the bulge with sketchy feet; took me a while to see where to go after that. Not really harder than "VCP" next to it.

Two difficult passages, one in the crack at the start, the other directly after the man-sized hole. The second is quite technical, with smooth moves. The chunky block in the end looks glued on (and I bet it is).

2nd go

2nd go