Ascensioni in Ringlerwand

2nd Go

Despite a lot of effort, I never managed to figure out the first few moves to the good pocket (just below the first bolt), though twice I went from that hold to the anchor clean. A brutal start, leading to more moderate steepness.

Great climbing up linked features. Great flow and excellent warmup.

3rd shot. Like everything here, a brutal (rad) boulder start, and a more sustained (but punchy) steep finale. The opening boulder on this was very blueys-esque.

A climb of two halves, but both are cool.

The sustained roof boulder at the top is tonnes of fun, made much harder today by how wet all the initial holds were.

2nd shot. The opening pocket boulder is rad, but once you stick it, the rest of the route is kinda ordinary.

Felt terribly hard, especially the last moves to the anchor. Might be just because there was dust and dirt all over the holds, but nevertheless felt like solid 7+. Not bad, but the black rock looks better from far away than up close. :-D #lastrouteoftheday

Might have been the first free ascent, at least of this line. The first ascensionists seemingly chickened out on the ledge and went to the left, but the two pegs leading further up into the interesting crack dihedral suggest that at least someone didn't agree with that strange decision. Nice start via the obvious dihedral (cams!), then a step to the right to get onto the massive flake. The series of rusty pegs starting here doesn't radiate a lot of trustworthiness, but at least there's 3 of them before the hardest part and another one when you've reached the suspiciously vibrating flake on the left. It would have made a lot of sense to use slings on these, the rope drag afterwards was horrible. Once you're on the ledge, creep up to the Bühler bolt right next to another peg, the last piece of fixed pro, just in the right place because the crux of the whole route awaits here. Save a few bigger cams for the crack in the end. Well, who am I telling this … probably not going to see another repeat in the near future, anyway.

Yet another route on this wall which I couldn't even finish to the top. Got shut down by the upper crux, which it turns out requires an armspan of at least 1,80 m … which I don't have. And even if I did, I'd probably find it hard because it's not my style. Felt hard to clip the first bolt.

Nice slab to a no-hands rest on the ledge, then powerful through the steep overhang. Fought hard to get to the finishing jug.

#warmup Might be what's called "Freundschaftsweg" in the old Bühler guidebooks.