One of the older sectors of Finale, dominated by old-school technical climbing on compact grey rock. Good footwork mandatory!
In walking distance to 'Avancorpo della Placconata' (2 min), 'Cordon Bleu' (2-5 min) and 'Antro delle Streghe' (3-5 min).
There are several approach options, all with about 20-25 min walking distance: Either park in front of the Bar dell'Orco, halfway up to Orco (parking 'Casermone') and approach the crag from the valley below, or continue to the parking in Orco village and approach Placconata from the top, either passing by 'Cordon Bleu' or 'Antro delle Streghe'.
Casermone: From Finale/Finalborgo, take the SP27 towards Feglino. After 2.3 km, turn slightly left into the uphill road to Orco (SP27bis). Continue uphill for 2.5 km until the bend where you see the Bar dell'Orco above on the right. Turn right and park at the parking area in front of the bar (44.2158, 8.3371).
Orco: Drive past the bar and continue for another 600 m. In the small village take a sharp right turn (signs to Boragni). After another 850 m, park next to the church San Lorenzo (44.2222, 8.3449).
From Casermone: Walk up the road that passes left of the bar and continue straight for about 2 min. Just after passing an old quarry on the right, turn into a small rocky trail on the left, leading down into the valley. Walk downhill for about 5 min until you the trail crosses a small dirt road. Turn right and find a small trail to left after about 90 m (opposite of two small blocks). Follow this trail for for about 10 min until a branch to the left (44.2122, 8.3442). Turn left, following green "P" marks. After a few meters, you pass sector 'Avancorpo della Placconata'. Continue for another 2 min until a short ramp that leads up to the crag.
From Orco, via Cordon Bleu: Walk up the road that passes the cemetery, just opposite of the parking area. After 100 m, continue straight ahead on the dirt road. After about 5 min, you reach a small junction (44.2181, 8.3445). Turn right into a small downhill trail with signs to 'Cordon Bleu'. After another 5 min, you pass the boulder traverse 'Traverso Saraceno' (44.2166, 8.3440). Keep going for another 5 min to reach the lefthand end of 'Cordon Bleu'. Pass the entire sector, which consists of several small wall segments, always staying on the main trail (5-7 min). About 50 m after the last route, you reach the ramp that leads up to Placconata.
From Orco, via Antro delle Streghe: At the junction, where the trail to 'Cordon Bleu' leads down on the right, continue straight ahead on the dirt road. After about 70 m, a hiking trail leads up on the right, marked by white/red color marks. Follow the trail for 5 min, until you reach a small grotto on the left and the trail to 'Antro delle Streghe' on the right. Walk down the trail that leads you to lefthand end of 'Antro delle Streghe' in about 4 min. Walk along the sector for about 2 min. On its right end, find a steep downhill trail (44.2138, 8.3444). Follow this trail downhill for 3 min to reach the upper lefthand end of Placconata.
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theCrag.com è un guida gratuita per aree di arrampicata in tutto il mondo, create collaborativamente da volenterosi arrampicatori, boulderer e altre simpatiche persone.Tu puoi registrare le tu vie, socializzare e discutere con altro utenti e molto altro...» inizia ad esplorare, » leggi di più o » facci una domandaAutore/i: Marco “Thomas” Tomassini
Data: 2022
ISBN: 9788855470834
A definitive guidebook describing all the rock climbing and sport climbing to be found around Finale Ligure, covering around 4,000 routes in 213 sectors.
Lukas su ★★ Linea logica 6a+ - FullSizeRender.JPEG
Lukas su ★★ Linea logica 6a+ - FullSizeRender-1.JPEG
Flavia su ★★★ Yama 6a - IMG_3976.JPEG
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