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Zapatista Wall

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

This is the wall located up behind "El Bobo". It is up and left of the ridge that runs from El Toro down towards "El Bobo".

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Etica ereditato da Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Vie

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Pitch 1: Start below an overhanging corner. Use good holds on the face to gain the first bolt. Staying left of the first 3 bolts goes at 5.10a, 5.9 to the right. Continue up the corner climbing a variety of features. The difficulty gradually decreases as you make your way up to a good ledge and belay. 35 meters 13 bolts

Pitch 2: Stem and face climb your way up the beautiful corner to a large ledge and belay. 32 meters 13 bolts

Pitch 3: Climb up the off width corner crack using a variety of techniques. 18 meters 8 bolts

Pitch 4: Move slightly left off the belay then straight up a face using big holds, cracks and pockets. There is a large semi detached flake left of the bolts and while this piece of rock has been judged to be ok it’s probably a good idea to avoid pulling on it. The intended line does not involve this flake. Traverse left onto a ledge then continue up another face to the last anchor below the summit. 28 meters 11 bolts

From here climb a short section of 4th class following a fixed line to the summit. This could also be pitched out and it would be possible to do a short rappel back to the p4 anchor off the quick link on the last bolt. 7 meters 3 bolts.

Descent: Rap the route with a 70 meter rope.

This route is located on the far left side of Zapatista Wall about 30 meters left Excalibur. The route goes up a corner system to a small summit on a ridgeline.

FA: Greg Hughes & Patrick Ferland, 1 Gen

1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.10b
4 5.9
5 5.9

The infamous new route to the left of "Excalibur" actually climbs fairly well, with the exception of a few chossy sections. Could become much better and safer if the middle section was cleaned up a bit more.

Very high first bolt on P1, but a Tricam in a pocket helps. Otherwise generally well bolted (by EPC standards), though with one run-out on P2.

  1. 30m, 10 bolts. Start a few meters left of Excalibur, in a slightly vegetated gully.

  2. 30m, 8 bolts. Head up rightwards from anchor.

  3. 36m, 14 bolts. Climb through roofs and dihedrals. To a semi-hanging belay to the right of the route.

  4. 10m, 5 bolts. Short pitch to a small ledge.

  5. 30m, 10 bolts. Up to the top of the ridge.

FA: Matthew Schutz, Erik Kloeker & Devin Moorad, Feb 2020

Continue past "Satori" for another 150 yards or so.

1 5.9
2 5.10b
3 5.8
4 5.8
5 5.10a
6 5.10b
7 5.10d

Another popular route sharing the first two pitches with "Satori". Get up early to be ahead of the crowds. Often climbed on warmer days because it sits in the shade all day. The climbing will have you in awe while the wandering bolting will have you remember what rope drag means if you don't deal with it.

  1. 5.9 Fun climbing. There are a few unnecessary bolts off-route.

  2. 5.10b Short crux off the anchor offers two beta options. Often linked with P1

  3. 5.8 Climb up and left following a traversing bolt line. Alternatively, you can walk left and scramble up some 5.6 but you won't get the pleasure of clipping bolts.

  4. 5.8 The start of that face you've heard so much about! Can be linked with the previous pitch with good rope drag management.

  5. 5.10a This pitch shows you exactly what you're in for 95% of the remaining distance to the top.

  6. 5.10b More of the same with a slight cruxier sequence. Keep a little energy for the burlier last few moves.

  7. 5.10d Traverse left through the crux of the climb and enjoy the ride to the summit. People tend to traverse low (good hands) following the bolts, or traverse high (good feet) and skip the bolt that is farthest to the left.

Bring 20 draws for linking. Bring 13 draws plus 60m rope for single pitches.

FA: Maki Gorchynsky, Fred Bohm, Scott Moser & Cooper Caillier

1 5.9
2 5.10b
3 5.9
4 5.10b
5 5.10a
6 5.10c
7 5.7

Very popular route. Get up early to avoid the crouds. Best climbed on warm days since it is in the shade most of the day. Shares the first two pitches with "Off the couch"

Climbing

  1. 5.9 Fun climbing to a ledge. There are a few unnecessary bolts off-route. There is a second anchor off to the right if the main one is occupied.

  2. 5.10b short crux off the anchor offers two beta options. Often linked with P1

  3. 5.9 Short unexpected crux comes early, then make use of your routefinding skills.

  4. 5.10b Jamming, stemming, traversing will make your life easier. Don't be drawn too much into the path of least resistance.

  5. 5.10a Fun exposed pitch.

  6. 5.10c The crux goes through suspicious overhung flakes. Good foot technique will allow for much easier passage. Great positive holds breaks up the crux sequence.

  7. 5.7 Can easily be linked with P6 with a little rope drag management. LOTS of loose rocks. Beware of parties below.

FA: Moser, Bohn, Rhine, Cailler & Soper, 2003

Very nice climb! most of the pitches are a bit hard for the grade. Pitch crux is a very technical slab. 2 ropes necessary.

Can be done with an 8 meter rope, but you will have to bail a biner to be able to rap to one of the anchors and also you will have to use the first anchor of Satori to get to the ground.

1 5.11a
2 5.11b
3 5.11d
4 5.12b
5 5.11b

P1:This pitch is almost 50 mts long so you need 2 ropes for the rappel. techy climb on slab and vertical. P2: around 30m long P3: it traverses to the left with a spicy finish P4: short and powerfull climbs the roof P5: is like climbing a 30mts long fridge hugging.

for the rappel there is an anchor 8mts left of the 4th anchor. and form ther you can rappel 50mts down to anchor. ther you can move to the anchors of the route.

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Frank P. Madden

Data: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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