Nodi in Sebastapol Bluffs

If you're staying at Unwin Lodge, just cross the fence and follow a system of obvious paths to the area you wanna go to. If you're coming by car, park on the side of the road between Unwin Lodge and Mt. Cook Village.

Cross fence from Unwin hut at the rear of the carpark. Follow vague track toward the cliff and cross barbed wire fence where PVC pipe has been placed to facilitate access.

Follow clearer tracks up a spur towards a large rock half way up the hill. Stay below the rock and traverse right crossing a gully until well right of the left sector and into clear patches of scrub. Then traverse back left to climbs or dodge your way on vague tracks around brambles to reach the right sector.

Left most line of bolts. Start on boulders in stream bed and up just right of arete. Crux above small ledge between bolts 6/7. Angle right to double bolt belay. Rap 25m.

Middle line of bolts in wall. Start in stream bed and up bolted crack system. Good holds appear when you need them. Through overlap and up to chains.

Right hand line of bolts.

Go to Twin Cracks wall, walk across the scree below that about halfway up to find the start of the track. Follow this up the bushy gully (NOT the big scree slope) until you are facing a blank wall. This is where the rap descent winds up. Turn left and scramble up the short spur behind you. The bolts on the left at the top are Growly Girl. Climb up the fixed rope to reach the bottom of The Old Bastard. You can then very carefully scramble up right onto the exposed prow then across a sloping shelf to reach the bottom of Javelin and Five Ring Circus (the bolted corner feature). Alternately it seems you can follow a vague track RIGHT from the bottom of the rap descent wall at the gully head to reach fixed ropes, regain the ridge and then traverse left to the bottom of Javelin.

Nice bridging along a left corner. You might want to place a cam before the first bolt for protection.

Right of BF behind tree

the wall above javelin wall

Long route on RH S of red wall crossing two overlaps and diagonals to the upper R of the wall.

Trad +bolts

Location unknown trad + bolts

Climb crown of gorse first pitch then turn left to higher belay. Continue through roof on bolts.

Pitch 1 is grade 15 15m pitch 2 is grade 18 30mTake 2 ropes

Start the 2nd pitch of COG following bolts left to finish as for Crown of Thorns

Starts from the ledge at the top of Crucifix. Follow the vegetated crack trending slightly left then onto face left of arete on gear.

Starts on the face and moves to the arete

Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix, 5m left of Tremor. Needs some large cams for the offwidth section

A technical climb that leads up a slab and onto an overhang at the finish. Start on a ledge at the top of the scree.

Pitch 1 25m grade 15 pitch 2 25m grade 19 pitch 3 14m grade 14 pitch 4 25m grade 20

Pitch1 10m grade 18 pitch2 10m grade 19

Run out!

trad+bolts

Trad+bolts run out at top!

Lunar Wall is the first wall left of Red Wall. It can be easily identified by some white areas/streaks on the rock about 80 meters above the foot of the cliff.

Run out, some bolt are 4-5 meter apart! Has rap anchors half way up.

1. After Nicked, keep traversing right after the overlap, watching out for loose rocks on the white scoop/roof area before getting to the double anchor on the right.

2. Keep right and go around the arete veering left to climb up the ramp - this pitch is combined with pitch 3 on ClimbNZ

3. Climb up veering to the right following some run out steps - this pitch is combined with pitch 2 on ClimbNZ

4. Climb up the large block and gain the arete following the face through loose blocks

Abseil from the top anchor to Red Wall (Ernie/Bert) using two 60m ropes

About 15 meters after the start of the first pitch of Nicked Extension, traverse left below the first horizontal white roof to find a double-anchor belay station. From there, climb directly up through both roofs and meet the anchor of Nicked Extension after 10-15 meters of easy climbing without bolts.

Bring two ropes to get down - although apparently it is possible to rap across to the anchors half way up Nicked.

most popular wall of the sebastopol bluffs, for route description please refer to http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-river/sebastopol-bluffs/red-wall

Starts approx. 75m above the ground all the way high and left at the top of the crag.

Starts approx. 75m above the ground all the way up and left on the Red Wall area.

Access by traversing left from the top of P1 of ‘Mako’ or the top of P2 of ‘Shark Attack’

Pitch two is scrubby. A good option is to climb pitch one then link into pitch two of ‘Shark Attack’

Link pitch between P1 of ‘Let's Go Bushwalking’ and ‘Mako’

Starts just left of where the track arrives.

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

   Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

Start from the belay ledge at the top of the first pitch of ‘Red Arete’. Climb the line of bolts between P2 of ‘Shark Attack’ on the left and ‘Red Arete’ on the right.

Overgraded and incorrectly named "Kermit" on the 2012 Sebastopol brochure. From the anchor at the top of the first (50m) pitch of Shark Attack, climb up a couple of meters and head left through the bushes to find its start anchor. Either reanchor there, or just continue up without clipping the anchor to avoid drag. After reaching the next anchor, follow the bolts left again and though the overlap.

An alternative start to Red Arete, starting 3m right of that route and climbing to the same belay ledge.

The slabs are the prominent shorter red walls on the right side of Red Arete and the larger scree slope looking from the road

Closed project.

Crack on the right.