Nodo |
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Aotearoa / New Zealand
There is lots of great climbing and bouldering right across New Zealand. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island |
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland |
Chiusa Apotu Road
This crag is currently CLOSED. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Chiusa Apotu Road |
12 Gran's Jam |
17 Swamp Monster |
12 Gav's Eliminates |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland |
Kerikeri Landing
This is an area of scattered bouldersand outcrops in the DOC reserve that forms the track from the Landing car park to Rainbow falls. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Kerikeri Landing |
Track side boulder
The trackside boulder is the obvious small outcrop 20m to the RH side of the track about 5min walk from the Landing car park |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Kerikeri Landing Track side boulder |
V6
★★ Trackside traverse
Obvious right to left traverse starting from the prominent jug/horn beside the tree at the far right of the outcrop. Rising leftwards traverse, with some small holds beneath the prow. Avoid large jugs above and continue around corner to left end of outcrop to finish |
V9
★★ Lockdown
This is a low level right to left variant of the Trackside Traverse problem starting on the same obvious large jug as for Trackside traverse). Heel hook on jug/break for right foot to start and then stay low using the small slopers and crimps to traverse left around the prow. |
V2
★ The prow (left)
The obvious easy line up the left side of the prow (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out) |
V2
★ The prow (right)
The obvious easy line up the right side of the prow in the middle of the outcrop (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out) |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Kerikeri Landing |
19
(Courtois & Courtois)
Keep a low profile and noise to an absolute minimum as this is a heavily frequented track in the DOC reserve. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland |
Maungaraho |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho |
The West Ridge |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The West Ridge |
14 ★ Pitch One |
16 ★★ Flake Flake |
15 Step It |
17 Curly Top |
16 ★ Superfly |
20 ★ Force 10 |
12
Slab Route
The route has become overgrown, hard to find. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho |
The North Face |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The North Face |
18
★★ The Dihedral
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19
Akuna Manta
Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off. |
22
★ Getting To Solar Selew
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20
★ Green Eggs and Ham
|
17
The Cave Route
|
20
★ Winge-En-Yank
From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho |
Trinity Slabs Area |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho Trinity Slabs Area |
17
★ Roam
Originally two pitches; 1st pitch bolted and 2nd trad. The climb is now three pitches with bolts all the way to the top. First bolt on second pitch hanging halfway out of the wall. |
16
Zorne's Lemon
Finishes in the saddle at the same place summit track comes up from the south side. Glue in anchors have been installed on the climbers left (east). |
22 A1
★★ Full Moon Fantasy
Full Moon Fantasy Just left of Zorne’s Lemon, this route meanders a bit, but double ropes will reduce rope drag. Two bolts and slabby moves lead to cam placements and a short, steep wall. Strong moves up then delicate traverse right past two bolts to a rest. Step up and left, find an undercling and clip the bolt under the overhang. The next move is a difficult reach to the horizontal crack. The bolt is used as Aid (22 A1) but the move has been freed( 25). Traverse left on strenuous underclings to a bolt, breathe, then delicately up the corner to a small grassy ledge. Two more bolts and fine moves lead to top and a chain/tree belay. |
18
Slipper
Down and 20m left of Full Moon Fantasy is a prominent angled groove. Climb the groove and at the top, move left into a shallow depression (crux). Climb the depression to a bulging wall, make a difficult move right round the arete and up to the second bulging wall. Climb the thin crack in the wall to finish at a bolt on Trinity Slaba. Not a lot of pro. |
16 Trinity Slabs |
The Mummy |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho |
The East Ridge |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The East Ridge |
16 ★ The Mad Turk |
22 ★★ Saracen |
15 Strummer |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho |
The South Face |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Maungaraho The South Face |
13 Sodom And Begorrah |
14 The Chimney Route |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland |
Abbey Caves
A small forest packed with boulders along with a few in the surrounding field. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves |
Eugene Sloper Corridor
Pass through the gate to enter the forest. You will see the first cave on your left as you descend down the natural stairs. Continue down the path and make a sharp right up into the forest. Stay on the trail until you see a corridor on your left with the Eugene sloper problem. This sector will lead to all other sectors within the forest. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves Eugene Sloper Corridor |
V3
★★ Careful Of That Sloper, Eugene
The most popular problem at the corridor. Start matched on the amazing sloper and finish up and left. Drop off. |
Eugene Right Exit
Start as for Eugene, head out right to the arete and finish as for Secret Rules of Engagement. |
V5
★ Secret Rules Of Engagement
Sit start with the right on a bad pinch and the left on the lowest edge. Head straight up the sharp arete. This problem is to the right of Eugene. |
V2
Prometheus
Sit start matched on the slopey horn. Go for the arete. |
V4/5
★★ Wowan Krab Dancing
Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete. |
V6
★★ Intimations of Immortality
Climb the tall steep face with some big compression moves. You will find this climb just up the hill from Eugene at an amazing formation to the right of the big tree. |
V6
★★ Crimp and Slap
Sit start with a left side pull and a right crimp. Head straight up to the horn. This climb is just up the hill from Eugene. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves |
The Bubba Sector
A small boulder with a dab factor on the left side. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves The Bubba Sector |
V2
Green Fingers
Sit start matched on the seam and go for the top. |
V4
Bubba
Start as for Green Fingers, make a big move out left and continue traversing around to mantle. Fight the dab. |
V4
★ Bonzo's Montreaux
SDS with the right hand on a crimpy pinch and the left low on the arete. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves |
The Archway
Some rad arch like formations. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves The Archway |
V2
the Zombie Room
Start matched on the arete and finish on the blocky jug. |
V3
Straight Outta Compton
Sit start from the pillar and head through the roof to finish on the blocky jug. Pad the sharp boulder behind you for the finish. |
V2
Something Something Traverse
Climb the smooth lip from left to right. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves |
Top Tier Boulders
This section is located up and left of the Eugene corridor. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves Top Tier Boulders |
Roof Project
Sit start matched on the sloper to the right of the groove. head through the roof to exit onto the face using diagonal rails. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves |
The Backside Trail
One of the best sectors at Abbey Caves. Home to Freak of Nature. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves The Backside Trail |
V4
★★★ Freak of Nature
Sit start matched on the slopey fin. A big move out right to the far lip will set you up for the finish up the arete. |
V6
★★★ Sam's Cave
Start as for Freak of Nature but head straight up pinching the fin. |
Tear Drop Project
Start as for Freak of Nature, traverse left to right along the sloping lip to a shallow tear drop feature and finish with a hard mantle onto the slab. needs more cleaning. |
V2
So Chill
Start with a high right foot and left hand palm down. Keep just to the right of where the grassy ledge is on the boulder. Head in a straight line up the rock. The grass ledge is out for this climb |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves |
Wasp Town
Follow the main track that runs along the outside of the forest until you a steep boulder next to a big tree. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves Wasp Town |
V7
★★ The Brian Wasp Town Massacre
Right hand on a an edge under roof and the left on a good edge. Head straight up for the groove. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland |
Ngahere Drive
All the information below is from https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/northland/ngahere-drive |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive |
Top Rocks
Please stay in the reserve, do not cross any fences and respect residents’ privacy. |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Top Rocks |
24
★ Rise and shine
Direct LH boulder start to Sunshine Daydream - joins original at the scoop |
23
★★ Sunshine Daydream
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
21
★ Creaky Tree
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
21
★ Pump Loonies
Tricky clip of 2nd bolt, then fingery crux up to the jug next to the 3rd bolt. |
22
★★ Madness And Mayhem
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
14
I Hate Spiders
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
15
B.O.G.
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
14
The Friend
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
15
Sweet 16
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
16
★ Lop
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
22
★★ Old Man Of Hoy
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
14
Sloping Shinney
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
16
★ Epiphyte Massacre
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
15
Hugh's Hump
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
Nga Madness
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
14
Killer Prawns
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
17
★ Poopsy's Climb
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
23
★ Killapaul
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
20
Living On A Razor Edge
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
24
Bro Cracked It Bro
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
14
Mosquito Eating Man
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
15
Bob
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
14
Pervert
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
15
Sunrise Slab
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive |
Main Crag
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive Main Crag |
15
The Lay Back
Homeowner has installed a small fence blocking access to the base of the climb. Please do not climb this until access rights can be verified and owners permission granted. |
Behind Starlight Wall |
19
★ Waves Of Motion
Climbers should be aware that even though they are climbing in a reserve, the bush directly above the climbs is on private land, and the track that leads over the top of Groove Wall, the Main Face and Starlight Wall is directly on the reserve/private land boundary. Please be respectful of the owners (no loud noise, rubbish, etc.). |