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Slug Wall

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

A wall well suited for beginners. Slabby climbs on big pockets inhabit the center of the wall, from grade 14-16. On the left and right hand side of Slug Wall the routes steepen and lengthen, pushing the grade to 17s.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Waipari

Please sign in, there is a logbook at the shelter partway up the track (On the way past hold onto your face wall) . No dogs, no camping or overnighting, no fires. This is a working farm, leave all gates open or closed as you found them.

Avvicinamento

From carpark head straight across grassy area to the right, and up the gully. 1 minute walk.

Top access can be gained by going up the valley and heading up the hill to the right, then back towards the wall and up a small rock step. WARNING - There is no hand rail set up, so proceed with caution and respect the edge.

Etica ereditato da Waipari

Please do not top rope directly through anchor bolts. Please rappel after cleaning anchors, rather than lowering through the bolts (unless the anchor bolts have additional lower-off rings). This is to ensure longevity of the anchor bolts.

Tags

Vie

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Grado Via

Heading up the steep wall on good pockets all the way to the top.

FA: James Field-Mitchell, 1998

Heading up the offwidth crack, following it as it trends right to the top.

FA: John Smith, 1990

Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Top anchors loose

Short, vertical face. Harder than it looks with a ton of bolts.

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Birds nest

Pretty fun short climb. Slight overhang if started on the right of the first bolt, or a foot-focussed start on the left.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1990

A more technical start than other routes on Slug Wall leads to a fun and feet dependent finish.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

Fun climb, but almost impossible for the belayer to see what the climber is doing between bolts 3 and 6.

FA: Bruce Culvert, 1991

Cool starts with thought provoking moves with a slightly challenging top.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

Fun starts leads to the crux at the small bulge. Cruisy climbing from the ledge to the anchor.

FA: Markus Ashton, Ben Ashton & Annette Ashton, 1991

Good (and sometimes wet) pockets leads to an enjoyable finish.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

Slightly shorter than Firestarter, but similar style. Good moves on a slab that transitions into a slightly pumpy end.

Anchor bolts are above the corner from main face - quickdraw top-rope anchors have a risk of being tweaked over the corner. Be prepared to set up an alternative anchor type or use extra gear to keep your carabiners off of the corner.

FA: 1998

One of the more sustained routes on Slug Wall. Slab start leads to a rest half way up the route, with a pumpy finish.

FA: 1998

Sit start.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Up to the first bolt and down.

Traverse the length of Slug Wall left to right.

Ascend the slab left of Slug Wall.

Sit start, mantel over slug horn.

Traverse the slug boulder. Start left of '1. V2' and go all the way to '8. VE'

Easy mantel.

Easy mantel.

Easy mantel.

Easy mantel.

Easy mantel.

Easy mantel.

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